Construction of a new pool

Kalannar

Member
May 23, 2020
23
St. Petersburg/florida
Lurker on the forums, first time poster. I have finally decided to build a new in ground pool in tampa, fl. I have receive 4 quotes, and this one seems the most reasonable but want to make sure I have captured everything. If you guys could give some advise I would be really appreciative. I have never done this before and want to do it right. I have attached the render of the pool and the specs of the pool. Here is the items on the quote:

• Contemporary Designer Pool, 525 SF Surface Area: 3' to 5' Deep.
• Pool Access: Entry Pool Steps As Per Plan.
• Pool Exit: Deep End Swimout ( approximately 18 inches wide and 5 feet long).
• 106 SF Underwater SunShelf With (1) Umbrella Holder 6" Water Depth.
• Pool Tile: Designer 6 x 6 Waterline Tile.
• Pool Coping: Standard Bullnose Brick.
• 2" Plumbing, 3 Return Inlets & 1 Pool Sweep Line.
• (1) Pentair Deluxe Skimmer.
• Pentair Dual Main Drains.
• Excavation: Shuttle Dig with Small Equipment.
• Remove 600 SF of Existing Concrete Slab.
• All Pool Permits & Taxes Included.
• Limited Lifetime Manufacturer Warranty on Pool Shell Structure.
• 2 Year Warranty From Defects on Material & Workmanship.
POOL EQUIPMENT
• Pentair IntelliPro 3 hp Variable Speed Pool Pump.
• Pentair Clean & Clear 200sf Cartridge Filter.
• Pentair IntelliChlor IC40 Salt Chlorine Generator.
• Pentair Ultra Temp 125k btu Electric
• Main Pool Light: Pentair GloBrite Color LED Light.
• Additional Pool Lighting: (1) Pentair GloBrite Color LED Light.
• 3 years Parts & Labor on Pentair Pool EQ.
ELECTRICAL / CONTROLS
• Electrical Hookup: Standard Hookup
• Intermaic Breaker Panel With Standard Timer.
WATER FEATURES
• (1) Underwater Bubbler On Sunshelf.
DECKING
• Decking: 936 SF, Interlocking Paver Deck.
• Screen Footer: 60 LF.
• Retaining Wall: Steeled Reinforced Poured Concrete As Per Plan.
• Raised Wall: 12" Raised Steeled Reinforced Poured Concrete.
• Additional Grading and Back Fill Required.
• Standard 2 Inch Deck Drain: 30 LF.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS
• 6' depth.
• hydrazzo standard.
• Demo fence, shrubs, 1 tree (concrete demo on separate line above).
• Screen cage with 10' walls, mansard roof.
• autofill / autodrain.
 

Attachments

sktn77a

Gold Supporter
May 16, 2010
1,761
Chapel Hill, NC
Looks good. So you're going for 6' at the deep end? That's a little too deep for standing and too shallow for diving. Might want to stick with 5' or go deeper for diving (8'). 3' is a little shallow for swimming laps - go 3.5'?

125kBTU heat pump isn't much for a 16,000 gal pool but you might get away with it in St Pete. I'd forget the pool sweep line unless you're going with a booster setup, eg Polaris 380+, or just get a robot cleaner.
 

Kalannar

Member
May 23, 2020
23
St. Petersburg/florida
do you have a link to a 400 sqft pentair? I only see it go up to 200. Also confused on the pump is it a Pentair IntelliPro 3 hp Variable Speed Pool Pump 028? If you could provide a link to the exact product your referencing that would help me understand. Thanks.
 
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jimmythegreek

TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 10, 2017
2,638
Morris Cnty NJ
I'm a Hayward guy but I believe that pump is also flow control which ibe never liked or needed. The 011028 is the gold standard pump and proper plumbing is all that's necessary. Usually flow control comes into play for water feature use or similar. What other than pool returns will you be running with this pump?
 

Rattus Suffocatus

Silver Supporter
Jun 5, 2019
1,061
Corona de Tucson, AZ
I like my 6' depth. It's good if you are tall. Going to eight in many places increases the homeowners liability insurance... Six won't, it's still considered "standard". I'm 6'3" tall and I would have HATED the standard five foot. Otherwise I would up size the cartridge filter. If I had it to do again I would have saved six hundred bucks and bought a standard halogen light fixture and then put in an aftermarket LED. But that's up to you. You can get the automation with all of that equipment being the same if you want. Looks good for the most part...
 

Kalannar

Member
May 23, 2020
23
St. Petersburg/florida
I'm a Hayward guy but I believe that pump is also flow control which ibe never liked or needed. The 011028 is the gold standard pump and proper plumbing is all that's necessary. Usually flow control comes into play for water feature use or similar. What other than pool returns will you be running with this pump?
Makes sense. The only water feature is a bubbler, so won't need anything fancy.
 

Kalannar

Member
May 23, 2020
23
St. Petersburg/florida
I like my 6' depth. It's good if you are tall. Going to eight in many places increases the homeowners liability insurance... Six won't, it's still considered "standard". I'm 6'3" tall and I would have HATED the standard five foot. Otherwise I would up size the cartridge filter. If I had it to do again I would have saved six hundred bucks and bought a standard halogen light fixture and then put in an aftermarket LED. But that's up to you. You can get the automation with all of that equipment being the same if you want. Looks good for the most part...
Agreed on the 6 foot. I like it alittle deep. I am 6 ft. and 5 ft. doesn't feel deep to me. Was it easy to switch the lights?
 

RoyH

Gold Supporter
Mar 2, 2020
30
Farmersville, TX
I upgraded the filter to the 420. Thanks jimmy for the advice on that. Question on the pump, he says the 056 is the newest version but the 028 is better?
The 0056 has more options and is cheaper than the 028. Pentair is pushing the 0056. You’ll be fine with the 0056, upgraded pump at less money than the 028. You do not want the 057, though!
 

Rattus Suffocatus

Silver Supporter
Jun 5, 2019
1,061
Corona de Tucson, AZ
Agreed on the 6 foot. I like it alittle deep. I am 6 ft. and 5 ft. doesn't feel deep to me. Was it easy to switch the lights?
I went with the expensive Hayward lights (as the bid we went with was Hayward). So if you meant after getting the bid, I don't know. Otherwise:

The standard halogens have a bulb in them with a socket. The LEDs in most cases are not repairable. You replace the whole unit. To replace a bulb in a standard fixture you take the fixture out, and place it on the deck. You replace the bulb on the deck, the cord should have been installed long enough to do this, then you put it back in under the water.

When the LED goes, we will have to pull it all the way out from the panel and run a new cord all the way back, probably a halogen fixture in my case as I am not going to IMHO make the same mistake twice. I didn't know at the time that you couldn't replace a board LED module.

The aftermarket LED bulbs are priced so that if you replace them every two years and the built in LED lasts six to seven years, you will still be ahead with the aftermarket ones...

I am not necessarily telling you to do this and there are many reasons why you might not, but it is worth looking into. As much as we have used the night lights so far we would have been far ahead with the bulb even with the large difference in current draw even not replacing it.

But it's still early in the season and it's now warm enough that night swims are possible. Maybe I will change that story by October.