Confused as to lower pH or not

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drewhiggs

drewhiggs

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Silver Supporter
Jul 9, 2017
98
Georgetown, TX
So I'm confused as to what to do with my pH. I have the pH meter and it reads 8.0-8.1. I also have the basic OTO test kit, but I have a difficult time determine pH with it. I want to say it shows 7.8 pH, but I'm really not sure.

Lastest pool test
FC - 1
CC - .5
pH - 8.0
TA - 70
CH - 275
CYA - 20
Salt - 3200
Temp - 49
CSI - -.13

If I lower my pH to 7.6, it also lowers my CSI to -.54. The plaster is 1.5 months old and I've read pH increases rapidly with new plaster (I also have a spillover spa). It seems when I add acid it shoots back up to 8.0 quickly, but moves slowly once it hits 8.0. If I keep adding acid it lowers my TA, so I'm just not sure what to do.

I also need to raise my CYA, but this lowers my CSI even more.

I'm actually glad my pool was completed in the winter so I can ease into this pool maintenance.

Please help me sort out this confusion. Should I wait until the OTO test shows 8.2 and lower to 7.8 or go off the pH meter? If I go off the pH meter, at what point should I add acid and what should I shoot for?

Thanks!
 
Cold water slows everything down a bit. I would suggest you keep the pH in the upper 7's. If you have calibrated the pH meter you can go off its data. I have no issues with the OTO.

Any chance you can only run the spillover a short time each day? You have automation so you can program it to go to Spillover for a short period once or twice a day to keep the spa chlorinated.
 
I'll bring the FC up to 5. I'm not sure how to filter the pool without the spillover. I'll have to give this some thought and see if I can control the valves this way. Right now when I'm in pool mode, the spillover starts naturally as that's the way it's plumbed. I might be able to change it up, but I'm not sure.

If you have any pointers as to changing the actuators for pool mode, I'll listen.
 
Use PoolMath to see the effect on TA on the MA you use. As long as your TA is 50 ppm or higher you are good.

Does all your return water go through your Spa when in Pool Mode?
 
Are you calibrating your pH meter every week or two using 7.0 standard solution?
 
ajw22 said:
Are you calibrating your pH meter every week or two using 7.0 standard solution?
Click to expand...

No, I've only calibrated once. I wasn't aware it needed to be done so often. It came with 2 buffered solution packages and I used one packet when I first got it. The other is still in it's package. I still have almost a gallon of distilled water I can use for the other packet. What 7.0 standard solution are you referring to?

duraleigh said:
Where do you live? What is the CH of your fill water?
Click to expand...

The CH of my fill water is 350 ppm and I live in central Texas. We've had a lot of rain this winter, so it has diluted the fill water.

Here's the rest of my fill water test.

FC - .5
CC - 4.5
pH - 7.2
TA - 250
CH - 350
 
mknauss said:
Use PoolMath to see the effect on TA on the MA you use. As long as your TA is 50 ppm or higher you are good.

Does all your return water go through your Spa when in Pool Mode?
Click to expand...

No, I have 4 returns in the pool and 2 in the spa.

Here is my pump schedule that I've setup.

Pool - 8:00am to 10:00 am -- 2750 RPM, 60 GPM
Pool Low - 5:00 pm to 5:00 am -- 1900 RPM, 31 GPM
Water Feature - 2:30 am to 2:45 am (I've been told it's good to run this daily)

I have no rhyme or reason for this schedule other than the fact I wanted the pump to run mostly at night when electricity is the cheapest. I'm just getting in the mindset for the summer when electric rates increase 75% during peak hours.
 

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You should be able to program the Easytouch to initiate a Spillover for 30 minutes a couple times a day and then go to all Pool the other times. I do not have Screenlogic and I believe it is easier to set it up with that.

@Jimrahbe is our resident Screenlogic expert.
 
Based on your fill water and your location, I see no reason to chase CSI up and down, You have a moderate level of CH but nothing you can't manage by simply keeping your pH down in the mid 7"s (which you are) and aerating off your high TA.

Read in Pool School how to correctly lower TA.....shoot for 60-80 ppm

Now, on another subject......that's a VERY VERY high CC's result and a completely inadequate FC level. If those results are correct, you need to SLAM the pool and then start maintaining you FC . Your CYA is too low, also.

Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. You have some adjustments to make. Forget CSI for now........you have much bigger fish to fry! :giggle:
 
duraleigh said:
Now, on another subject......that's a VERY VERY high CC's result and a completely inadequate FC level. If those results are correct, you need to SLAM the pool and then start maintaining you FC . Your CYA is too low, also.
Click to expand...

You must be referring to my fill water. The CC's of my fill water were 4.5 and this was in November. I tested my fill water this morning and the CC's were 1.5

As for my pool. I overshot my FC target a little and it's at 5.5 this morning and CC's are 0.

I'll buy some stabilizer on the way home from Home Depot and I'll adjust the pH to 7.8.

In the future, should I adjust pH when it hits 8.0 or wait until I see 8.2 with the OTO test before lowering?
 
Sorry I mixed up your water reports. CC's in your fill water is from a different type of chlorine so no problems.

I think it would be better to keep pH down around 7.6 and then adjust as soon as it hits eight.......that should prevent any scaling.
 
ajw22 said:
Are you calibrating your pH meter every week or two using 7.0 standard solution?
Click to expand...

Well lesson learned. My pH meter was off by .2, so my pool pH is 7.8 and not 8.0. I'll be calibrating it weekly now.

mknauss said:
You should be able to program the Easytouch to initiate a Spillover for 30 minutes a couple times a day and then go to all Pool the other times. I do not have Screenlogic and I believe it is easier to set it up with that.
Click to expand...

I found out how to do this, but it has to be done manually as I don't have an actuator on the pool return valves.

Thanks for the help guys!
 
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