Configuration of Jandy System

Morency pool

Active member
Feb 6, 2021
26
Atlanta Georgia
Relatively new pool owner here trying to complete a pool set up and build. The pool has been running since July but the builder is still finishing various items on patio etc.

Equipment: Jandy with cartridge filter. Single Variable Speed Pump
Pool & Spillover Spa
Automatic Cover on Pool
Saltwater Pool

The next step is to reprogram the equipment to set up the circulation of the spa and the pool water to the filter/salt cell and eliminate the overflow from the spa to the pool so the cover can be 100% closed. (Spillover mode will be maintained as a manual mode only when cover is open)

Challenge: they are saying there is no way to maintain the pool and spa as a single body of water without the spillover as there are 2 modes.

Spa Mode. Pool mode. Each mode runs independently and there is no water exchange so I will have to test and maintain water separately.

This is really more of an issue in the 6 months of winter when we only use the spa and would not use the overflow.

Would there be a way to add a second pump or something to run the spa and pool simultaneously without the spillway?

Finally they are running my variable speed pump the same speed all 12 hours every day which I questioned. Shouldn’t we program differently?
 
They are correct that there is no way to mix the two bodies of water without the spillover. I'm guessing from your description that the spa is raised above the pool and the pool cover would catch the water if you ran in spillover mode with the cover closed. And I can't see any way a second pump would help. Providing some sort of alternative spillover path for when the cover is closed would work but I don't know how you could build that.

As for the VSP, yes the speeds should be set appropriate for the various modes. For just filtering this is typically quite low (or whatever is needed to keep the SWG happy if you have one). A higher speed is typically needed if the heater is running, and often an even higher speed for running the SPA jets.
 
Thinking on this a bit further you are probably better off just treating the pool and spa as separate bodies of water during the winter months. This probably doesn't quite mean twice the amount of testing as the covered cold pool should be pretty stable. Also means you aren't dumping the heat from your spa after every use into a pool you are not going to use. So you would set the Jandy system up to run in pool mode as long as needed to keep the pool filtered and chlorinated, and a separate run time in spa mode to do the same for the SPA. Assuming you have the Jandy SWG, you can set separate generation percentages for pool vs spa mode.
 
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Thinking on this a bit further you are probably better off just treating the pool and spa as separate bodies of water during the winter months. This probably doesn't quite mean twice the amount of testing as the covered cold pool should be pretty stable. Also means you aren't dumping the heat from your spa after every use into a pool you are not going to use. So you would set the Jandy system up to run in pool mode as long as needed to keep the pool filtered and chlorinated, and a separate run time in spa mode to do the same for the SPA. Assuming you have the Jandy SWG, you can set separate generation percentages for pool vs spa mode.
Thanks yes. Agree. It’s pretty stable over the winter and the SWG is basically shut down and pool using stored chlorine at this point.

It’s just annoying since we must run the spillway to mix in the summer which is a manual operation to open the pool a bit, lose some stored heat etc. certainly not what we signed up for with an automated cover and pool. Especially in early fall once leaves are falling. (PB keeps guaranteeing that there will be complete mixing of water and the equipment subcontractors says big no)

Both seem clueless on the variable speed pump. “We don’t have to program the variable speeds that’s built into the pump and it cycles through the speeds automatically to optimize power consumption”. It clearly is running 2750 12 hours a day according to to set up.

From what limited reading I have done it seems 4 -6 hours or so a day at that speed would be sufficient and the rest could be at 1/2 that speed? But I am a beginner.
 
Adding a flow sensor to see what you are actually getting helps a lot in choosing an appropriate speed. I added one of the blue-white units to my installation (available from Amazon and not difficult to install if your equipment has a suitable straight section of pipe). There is also a flow meter that replaces the flapper part of a standard Jandy Check valve (google "FlowVis"), if there is a check valve in your setup at an appropriate place.

Did you get an automation panel (eg Jandy Aqualink)?

Post some pictures of your pool and equipment.
 
Yes we have the Jandy Aqualink.
In a further update PB called today to say that the Freeze protection cannot remove the spillover so the cover cannot be completely closed in the winter. (We are in the Atlanta GA area so last night it kicked in and it turns on in the winter it seems about 1x a week and its somewhat predictable but not 100%). We have not paid him 100% and that a cover I cannot close is not really that plan. Theoretically with all 2" plumbing the risk of freeze in GA is very very low so we could just shut off freeze protection unless we have a deep freeze of sub zero for over 48 hours.

Here is the equipment. The pump in the front center is only for the water bowls. IMG_1722.jpg
 
Ah, hadn't thought about freeze protection circulation. Seems like your pool builder didn't really think you were going to use the cover, or didn't think out all the consequences of it.

That straight length of pipe between the filter and the heater would be perfect for the blue-white flow-meter if you wanted.

If you go into the Aqualink programming you will find that you can set separate pump speeds for all modes of operation, filtering, heating, spa vs pool, etc.

Maybe they are out of view but I don't see any check valves in the suction lines. If the spa water level is above the pool and the control valve is partially between pool vs spa mode water can siphon from the spa to the pool, which could be yet another issue.
 
Ah, hadn't thought about freeze protection circulation. Seems like your pool builder didn't really think you were going to use the cover, or didn't think out all the consequences of it.

That straight length of pipe between the filter and the heater would be perfect for the blue-white flow-meter if you wanted.

If you go into the Aqualink programming you will find that you can set separate pump speeds for all modes of operation, filtering, heating, spa vs pool, etc.

Maybe they are out of view but I don't see any check valves in the suction lines. If the spa water level is above the pool and the control valve is partially between pool vs spa mode water can siphon from the spa to the pool, which could be yet another issue.
 
Correct. It appears not much was thought through and he admits this is the first pool with an automatic cover.

Here is the top view of the equipment. I can add check valves of course. I am having some additional automation added to the pool deck bubblers that are manual now.

What problem could that create and where would it need to be?
 

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Well you can test if my concern is an issue by shutting off the pump and manually positioning the automatic valve on the inlet (suction) of your filter pump half way between it's two settings. The easiest way to do that (assuming the automation system is still on) is to flip the little toggle switch that is on the bottom side of the actuator to the opposite position. That should cause the valve handle to start moving. Let it move about 45 degrees and then stop it by moving the toggle switch to it's middle position. Observe the water level in your spa, depending on how much higher it is relative to the water of the pool you might find it is draining quite quickly into the pool. Flip the toggle switch back to it's original position when you are all done and turn on spillover to refill the spa (assuming the level did drop).

It the rate is low enough then the water lost to the pool when switching between pool and spa modes may not be enough to matter.

With your newest picture I see that your contractor has plumbed a manual fill directly to a hose bib. That would be a code violation here in CA (an anti-backflow device is required.)
 

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Well you can test if my concern is an issue by shutting off the pump and manually positioning the automatic valve on the inlet (suction) of your filter pump half way between it's two settings. The easiest way to do that (assuming the automation system is still on) is to flip the little toggle switch that is on the bottom side of the actuator to the opposite position. That should cause the valve handle to start moving. Let it move about 45 degrees and then stop it by moving the toggle switch to it's middle position. Observe the water level in your spa, depending on how much higher it is relative to the water of the pool you might find it is draining quite quickly into the pool. Flip the toggle switch back to it's original position when you are all done and turn on spillover to refill the spa (assuming the level did drop).

It the rate is low enough then the water lost to the pool when switching between pool and spa modes may not be enough to matter.

With your newest picture I see that your contractor has plumbed a manual fill directly to a hose bib. That would be a code violation here in CA (an anti-backflow device is required.)
There is an anti backflow between the pool and the hose bib fill. Not sure if you can see it on the picture but it’s in line on the manual fill line.

Ok I’ll test your assumption and report back. Thx.
 
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