Complete newbie getting started with my first pool

[McLovitz]

Hi all - We installed a pool in NJ late Fall/Winter and immediately closed it without testing anything, etc. (as the water was frozen). This forum was a huge help to us as we dealt with all the difficulties of pool construction (including having to fire the pool installer near the end of the job, getting ripped off by a concrete guy, etc.).

While it's early in NJ and it will be weeks until we see swimmable weather, we decided to open the pool this week in order to get started maintaining it and getting the hang of it. We hired a pool maintenance company to remove the safety cover, add starter chemicals (he tells me they added chlorine and PH down) and program the Pentair Easytouch panel so we could get things moving and then my hope was to use what I learn in this forum to maintain the pool myself. I'll apologize in advance for any really dumb questions.

Initial concern relates to chemicals I should be adding. Day one after the cover came off, I decided to do a basic water test. I found both the chlorine and pH to be high which didn't surprise me at all given what I was told re: chemicals they added. We left the pump on a low speed (1150 RPM) to let the chemicals distribute 24/7. I went back just now (2 days later) and tested the water again. pH seems to be down a bit (roughly 7.8) and chlorine test doesn't show any yellow whatsoever which I take to mean we now have a very low level of chlorine in the pool. It's a SWG pool so we'll be leaning on that to produce the chlorine going forward. On day 1, the SWG read that water was too cold, so it was off. Today it seems to be on but reads that the salt level is very low (again, no surprise since we haven't added salt). I did a test of the salt level and confirmed there is hardly any salt in the pool. I just ordered 10 bags of salt to add to the pool which we'll probably go pick up tomorrow.

So with all that background, here are my initial questions:

1. Weather here are the next few weeks looks like high 50s and overnight lows hitting as low as low 30s. Should I plan to dump the salt in the pool now to let the SWG start producing chlorine or is it better to add chlorine for now and hold off on the SWG for the time being?

2. Pump speed - the pool isn't a huge pool by any stretch and the pump certainly seems to have more firepower than we need. I've been running the pump at 1150RPM with the waterfall running to get water circulating 24/7. I assume that isn't really necessary (calculations I've done show that I'm getting more turnover than I need). Should I keep running 24/7 for the time being or is it sufficient to leave on 6-8 hours. Is 1150 RPM a reasonable speed to continue running the pump in the beginning?

3. Other chemicals. At this point, are there other chemicals you'd recommend adding to start off the season or other readings I should be taking? My hope was the maintenance co. that opened the pool would get us stabilized and I would then take over but he seems to pay little attention to me now that I told him we'll be maintaining the pool ourselves and having him open/close. Trying to get his attention and we may have him do some more maintenance for the time being until I feel comfortable taking over day-to-day maintenance but in the meantimea any other thoughts are much appreciated.

4. While I'm running the pump at a low speed, is there a minimum speed to run the pump if I plug in the vacuum to clean the bottom?

5. Bought a Dolphin robot to clean the bottom but it suggests a certain water chemistry before running the dolphin. Is there a real risk of doing harm to the dolphin if I plug it in now and test it before the water is stabilized?

I have a ton more questions but just starting here as I get going I think would be helpful. Thank you everyone who gave advice during the pool build and thanks in advance for your guidance! Looking forwared to our first season and getting the landscaping around the pool finished finally

 

[ajw22]

Find a source for liquid chlorine and maintain your FC/CYA Levels Level. Don’t rely on the SWG until your water is above 65F.

Post a complete set of test results.

 

[McLovitz]

Thanks. Both CYA and Chlorine level seem to be undetectable right now (running the CYA test, it says to stop pouring when you can't see black dot -- I poured the full thing and still black dot was 100% visible). So I'll go find a source for liquid chlorine to get me going. Any sense adding salt now or not really?

 

[Stargate_to_earth]

I am not proficient with SWCGs. That being said till it is operational you need to treat it as if it doesn't have one. Aka use liquid Cl and keep it in band according to your CYA. As you have no CYA you would use that portion of the chart (Chlorine / CYA Chart - Trouble Free Pool) the non-SWCG side as you arent using one at the moment.

You can add CYA in many ways see CYA section of Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool.

in general i reccommend reading up in Pool School - Trouble Free Pool

 

[ajw22]

Let's get the basics done first.

- You need chlorine ASAP.
- You need stabilizer to raise your CYA to at least 30.
- You need to keep your pH in the 7's.

Get that done then you can take the next steps.

 

[McLovitz]

A few days later, here's an update and my latest questions:

After striking out trying to get pool salt (Walmart canceled my order) and finding bleach sold out in many places around here, I decided not to keep chasing chemicals and instead asked the maintance co. that opened the pool to come back and add necessary chemicals (he also sold me 8 bags of salt at a reasonable price I'll add once it gets warmer out).

Based on the invoice he left me, he added the following on Fri morning:

Granular chlorine (1 lb)
Cynuric Acid (3 lb)
Calcium increaser
Total Alkalinity Increaser

The only chemical I see is the chlorine (there are 3 pucks in the skimmer still) but otherwise I am just going off the invoice to see what his guys added

I just went out to the pool to take measurements and came up with the following:

FC: 14.5
CA: 40
pH: 7.5
TA: 190
Calcium: 350

Obviously the alkilinity and the chlorine are very high. Should I be looking to lower alkilinity and should I be leaving the chlorine pucks in the skimmer given the very high chlorine levels?

As always, your help is much appreciated.

 

[Msch99]

CYA? Still same or added?

 

[McLovitz]

CYA? Still same or added?

Sorry - meant CYA 40, not CA

 

[setsailsoon]

Mc,

Glad to see you're here. It's normal for new owner's to lack confidence to take the pool on themselves. But it's hard to do this with a pool maintenance company and TFP guidance. We do it differently than the maintenance companies and it really does not work to combine methods. TFP works the best anyway. That's why thousands are on this site.

If I were you I'd go back to post #5 from Allen and go from there. Start by posting a complete set of test results and you'll get step by step advice. Ask any questions you may have along the way. You'll get this in days not weeks then you'll be on Pool Easy Street, the TFP way. You've already got all you need is liquid chlorine, MA (from the big box store $11 for 2 gal), and stabilizer nothing more. You don't need anything from the pool store unless Allen or another TFP expert identify a very unusual problem.

Gook luck and let's see that set of results please.

Chris

 

[markayash]

If you get salt you could adding it slowly, always add less then you think and remeasure after a couple days. Also Walmart sells Clorox salt, stay away from it..get Morton or nothing
Do you have a Homedepot, they sell "liquid Chlorine" in some stores. May see if they have it and if they will deliver.
May also be able to get salt delivered at the same time?

 

[ajw22]

If you can get your hands on enough MA and can aerate to raise your pH you can tackle lowering your TA by following....

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.troublefreepool.com

You can leave the tablets in since you can use a bit more CYA with your SWG. But I would not add any more and when those are dissolved let your FC drift down to your target based on your CYA at that time ... FC/CYA Levels

 

[McLovitz]

If you can get your hands on enough MA and can aerate to raise your pH you can tackle lowering your TA by following....

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.troublefreepool.com

You can leave the tablets in since you can use a bit more CYA with your SWG. But I would not add any more and when those are dissolved let your FC drift down to your target based on your CYA at that time ... FC/CYA Levels

Thanks much. I'll get my hands on some MA to add to the pool to try to lower the TA and also will leave those tablets until they are dissolved. Noticed that aerating the pool raises the pH. I've been running the waterfall almost constantly (with pump running aroun 1150 rpm) so would shutting it off help lower the pH a bit?

 

[Ankrumfishing]

Thanks much. I'll get my hands on some MA to add to the pool to try to lower the TA and also will leave those tablets until they are dissolved. Noticed that aerating the pool raises the pH. I've been running the waterfall almost constantly (with pump running aroun 1150 rpm) so would shutting it off help lower the pH a bit?

It won't lower the pH, but it will certainly help reduce the rate it increases. Lowering the pH is done through adding MA, which will lower the TA in return. Since your TA is really high, continue adding MA until the pH is in the low 7's, then aerate to increase the pH to the upper 7's and repeat this process until your TA is 60-80. Lowering your TA will reduce the rate at which your pH will climb.

 

[McLovitz]

It won't lower the pH, but it will certainly help reduce the rate it increases. Lowering the pH is done through adding MA, which will lower the TA in return. Since your TA is really high, continue adding MA until the pH is in the low 7's, then aerate to increase the pH to the upper 7's and repeat this process until your TA is 60-80. Lowering your TA will reduce the rate at which your pH will climb.

Sounds like a plan. Thanks much.

 

[McLovitz]

Added acid to my pool (a few times now) which drove the pH down to 7.2 but the TA only moved from 190 to 160. Do I keep adding acid?

I read elsewhere that a high chlorine level will keep the pH reading from being accurate but just wanted to ensure I should keep adding acid. FC is now at 10.0 and CYA at 50.

Pool is clear by the way. Just wondering if the high TA level is a big concern.

Also - while it remains cold in NJ, the temp should start coming up. The chlorine tablets have dissolved now. How low would you let the FC get before adding salt to begin letting the SWG generate chlorine?

 

[ajw22]

Added acid to my pool (a few times now) which drove the pH down to 7.2 but the TA only moved from 190 to 160. Do I keep adding acid?

It is a process. TA comes down a bit with every acid addition lowering the pH. Keep the cycle going and over time your TA will keep coming down. Unless your fill water has high TA.

I read elsewhere that a high chlorine level will keep the pH reading from being accurate but just wanted to ensure I should keep adding acid. FC is now at 10.0 and CYA at 50.

With FC above 10 pH test can start being darker then it should and becomes unreliable.

Taylor pH Test is Unreliable When FC > 10

Pool is clear by the way. Just wondering if the high TA level is a big concern.

High TA is not a big concern, especially without your SWG running. With your SWG running the lower TA can help reduce scaling on the plates.

Also - while it remains cold in NJ, the temp should start coming up. The chlorine tablets have dissolved now. How low would you let the FC get before adding salt to begin letting the SWG generate chlorine?

About 2 ppm above your SWG FC target for your CYA you can start up the SWG.

You can add the salt now if you have it.

 

[McLovitz]

Thanks for all the responses. One more response:

I know dry acid is frowned upon due to sulfites but I was able to get my hands on it easily so I started with that rather than MA (as I figured it would be a one time use to get the TA down and then I'd switch over to MA in the future). It seems the sulfites are a bigger issue for the SWG but how concerned should I be about using dry acid a little while longer just to try to get the TA down a bit more?

 

[ajw22]

I know dry acid is frowned upon due to sulfites but I was able to get my hands on it easily so I started with that rather than MA (as I figured it would be a one time use to get the TA down and then I'd switch over to MA in the future). It seems the sulfites are a bigger issue for the SWG but how concerned should I be about using dry acid a little while longer just to try to get the TA down a bit more?

You are fine using dry acid in a pinch. Being in NJ you will be draining your pool some every season for closing int he winter. That will remove some of the sulfites and reduce the accumulation. If you were in an area that never drained water from their pool then sulfite accumulation could become a problem sooner.

 

[McLovitz]

Looks like the TA is coming down and chlorine as well (now that the tablets are gone). Levels today are:

FC: 9
CA: 40
pH: 7.2
TA: 120
Calcium: 200

I added 4 bags of salt to the pool but the IC20 still reads "low salt" and the system remains off. I was hoping the Easytouch would tell me how much salt is in there but when I run the diagnostic on the panel, it says "Com Link Error." I guess my question is whether the Com Link Error is caused by the system not turning on or whether there is an issue with the wiring of the panel or the salt cell itself. Test strips seem to indicate I have plenty of salt in there (3800ppm) but I also ordered the Taylor kit to test the salt before adding any more salts. I'm curious whether the strips (which show enough salt) or the salt cell (which tells me too little salt) is incorrect but also whether the panel should be telling me something about the current salt level even with the cell not working due to low salt.

 

[markayash]

Looks like the TA is coming down and chlorine as well (now that the tablets are gone). Levels today are:

FC: 9
CA: 40
pH: 7.2
TA: 120
Calcium: 200

I added 4 bags of salt to the pool but the IC20 still reads "low salt" and the system remains off. I was hoping the Easytouch would tell me how much salt is in there but when I run the diagnostic on the panel, it says "Com Link Error." I guess my question is whether the Com Link Error is caused by the system not turning on or whether there is an issue with the wiring of the panel or the salt cell itself. Test strips seem to indicate I have plenty of salt in there (3800ppm) but I also ordered the Taylor kit to test the salt before adding any more salts. I'm curious whether the strips (which show enough salt) or the salt cell (which tells me too little salt) is incorrect but also whether the panel should be telling me something about the current salt level even with the cell not working due to low salt.

My strips shows 2400 when my pool was 2000..When I raised it to 3400 strips till show 2400.. I wouldn't trust the strips