Cloudy water

Mellieblue

New member
Sep 11, 2022
3
Charleston, SC
Pool Size
25515
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hi there. I am a new pool owner in coastal SC. It has been a very rainy couple of weeks. My pool has been cloudy for at least a month, and I cannot seem to clear it up. I had been tracking chemicals with a pool store app, and my Taylor testing and treatment guide. I have a few points of where I need help, guidance and/or the freedom to whine. Ha ha.

The pool is not completely white, it is just obvious that it is not crystal clear—kind of what it may look like after a high bather load (which has not been the case).

Background:
Pool completed Oct 2021. Very little maintenance needed before this spring/ summer because water temps were low.

SWG is actually newer than all other equipment, as original was defective and replaced under warranty in late June 2022.

The basics, which I think are in my signature, but here goes:
-25,515 gallons
-gunite
- Plaster finish
- SWG (Pentair intellichlor i40)

Current test readings:
FC - 2.0
TC - 3.0
CC - 1.0
Ph - 7.6
TA - 80
CH - 200
CYA - 30
Salt -2750

Phosphates: 200
I have not done anything with this reading, as I am getting conflicting messages in the importance of this reading.

Challenges :
I need to know what to prioiritize. Pool Math tells me to raise my CYA and CH. is there a guidelines for what order to add chemicals? Does it depend on what needs adjusting?

What about my CC? It should be 0, right? Will adding the CYA fix this or do I need to do more here?

I know that I need more salt, as my SWG is showing low. And it is going to rain again today/tomorrow. There comes a point where my SWG won’t generate sanitizer because salt levels are too low. If I am not there now, I will be there by tomorrow.

My CSI is -0.3. Is this a problem? (Taylor says -0.3 pr lower is corrosive to my finish)

Pool store, Taylor, pool builder and TFP all have different recommended levels for CYA. I am throwing pool store recs put the window. If I also disregard Taylor’s guide and the pool builder and dial into TFP recs, which include a lower TA and higher CYA level, everything is going to be ok, right?

I have been trying to maintain (with baking soda) a TA of 80-100, CYA (with dry CYA) of 30-50, and admittedly COMPLETELY BLEW IT with CH. I had it in my head that 200 was good. The lightbulb finally went off over my head on this one, so I know that CH needs attention and to be raised to at least 250, right?

What I have been doing:
Adding baking soda nearly every week to adjust TA up.

Tweaking chlorine output rates on SWG. It will raise FC and TC, but CC is still at least 1, no matter what.

Tried Running filter for 24, not clearing up. I got a nice surprise with $1200 in electricity bills for July and August. I am willing to run it as needed, but I really need to do so only when it’s needed. Currently running 18 hours/day at speed of 3300. Yes, I also need to learn how to use the variable speed function, but maybe pool chemistry is more importnt right now.

I added 1 lb of dichlor shock. It did nothing. Pool may be more cloudy than last week.

Thanks for reading. I appreciate feedback. Apologies for any typos, and please let me know what other details I need to include for a more accurate picture.
 
I'm assuming that the test results you've listed are from your Taylor Test. If not, next time please give those results as we only trust results from TPF-100 and Taylor K2006 tests.

Your K2005 test kit is good, but missing a key piece, the FAS-DPD test. You will need that test to be able to SLAM and that is what you need to do do get rid of the algae that's causing the cloudiness. You can buy that separately from https://tftestkits.net/splash-page.html. Sorry I can't give you a link directly to the test as the website seems to be down right this second.

Order that test. Until you get it, don't add anything to your pool except a gallon of 10% liquid chlorine every day to keep things from getting worse. Don't add anything else and STAY OUT OF POOL STORES (except to buy the LC, if that's where you get it.) Don't let them test your water. We don't rely on pool store tests bc they are notoriously unreliable.

When you have the FAS-DPD test, we can help you SLAM your pool and get it sparkling clear and stay that way.
 
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I wouldn't raise your CYA quite yet. You need to SLAM and it's going to be easier with a CYA of 30 instead of 70 or 80. Then, once you pass the three criteria to stop the SLAM, you should raise your CYA.
 
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From what I understand, low CH in a plaster pool is not good because it will leach calcium out of the plaster and the minimum is 250. I am unsure of whether or not you have to wait for SLAM to address the CH or not but hopefully one of the experts can chime in.
 
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