Closing question!

yogocoola

Member
Oct 8, 2010
6
I'm from Boston, MA.

I bought this house last year with an in ground pool, so basically I am so new as a pool owner.

This is my first year closing the pool. I went to a pool supply store, and bought a closing kit. I followed the direction. First step was to put down the anti free 1 week before closing. I did that, but then that following week I had to replace my roof. So, I decided to cover the pool up to keep the dirt away. Once the roof was done, it was then raining like crazy for several days.

Now after 2-3 weeks, I have the pool covered, but I haven't finished the following steps in the closing kit.

Questions:
1. Should I remove the cover and continue with about 10 other steps? Will I be ok to close it still and take care of the water next year?

2. I installed the safety cover myself, so basically I did an ok job, so the cover is not completely stretched, so now there are water on top and a lot of leaves. What is the best way to remove these ugly leaves?

Thanks for all the help. I already spent 5k at the beginning of the season on this pool, so I completely out of budget to hire someone for closing. They charge too much here.
I appreciate for all comments and suggestions in helping me with this matter.
 

Darkside of the Pool

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 20, 2010
106
The questions are:

What is inside your closing kit?
Is it chemicals, or simply hardware? The hardware was needed. It probably includes a plug, styrofoams for your skimmer, foam for your drain (serpentine) and such.

The chemicals, well, not as much. It is in the pool store philosophy to sell stuff that ''might help'' and ''won't hurt'', except maybe your wallet. It might have (remarketed under fanc: Algaecide, Sodium bicarbonate (in a floater), Degreaser and such. If you don't have the chemicals, don't fret it. If you have them, might as well use them.
 

waste

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Mar 29, 2007
4,160
Coastalish 'down easter'
Welcome to TFP!!

As most of us haven't used a kit to close the pools, could you please describe more fully what you did and did not do? Here is the Pool School article on closing pools which may help with some of the terms used in closing a pool.

We're still a few weeks away from overnight freezing temps, so there is time to finish anything that needs be done :cool:
 

yogocoola

Member
Oct 8, 2010
6
Thanks for your responses!

The kit is exactly as the following. The kit does not have the stuff to balance the water level
http://www.lesliespool.com/browse/Home/ ... 00/I/14819

and, I've been following their directions here:
http://www.lesliespool.com/inground_freezing.html

So far, i have done steps 1->4. I finished step #4 today to try to bring up the pH level. I used the test strip and found that I had 6.8 for pH level

I was going to execute step#5, but after reading the direction, they said not to do it on the same day as I increase the pH level.

Thanks again
 

zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
11,058
Houston, Texas
There are a couple of chems in the kit that we normally do not recommend, but since they are already in your pool we will go on. First post a complete set of current test results. We do not recommend relying on test strips for accurate results. Using your own drop based test kit is best, however a set of pool store results would be better than nothing. After you post your test results we can tell you what you need to do to balance the water for closing.
 

Darkside of the Pool

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 20, 2010
106
:shock:

Phosfree / Pool Magic might have an use (read MIGHT) as pool magic can fight organics and prevent stains.

MetalFree however... this part is funny as it will lower pH/Alcalinity without doing any real work, unless you have metal in your pool. This shouldn't be part of what they tell/sell EVERY CUSTOMER...

If your pool has a vynil liner, don't bother with step 5. Do 7, 8, 9, 10 before 6. The algeacide will prevent algea from growing once the shock treatment is done. And you won't drain most of it out of the pool. Stir the pool with your leaf net afterward.

11 and onward seems ok. I wouldn't bother with 21.
On a sidenote: doesn't anyone thinks it's a bit odd to balance PH, Alcalinity and Calcium Hardness, then drain, then refill 4 inches?

Ugh... and I thought OUR closing kit was a bit overselling.

You can close/open your pool with Chlorine / CYA, and balancing your water. Other than that you might need a bit of anti-freeze and WILL need to blow your lines.

Algeacide (optionnal - Algea Control) can help keep your pool clear until it freeze and will be less of a bother (use Polyquat).

Pool Cover (optionnal) will keep dead leaves from reaching the bottom of your pool. If you do use one, make sure the cover DON'T TOUCH THE WATER as it freeze. There are many options, the most common being an air pillow you tie up.

Degreaser (optionnal - Pool Magic?) will keep dead leaves and other organic material from staining. This will ease clean-up in spring. This is still completely optionnal.
 

Durk

Well-known member
Jun 14, 2007
654
New Jersey
The Leslie's instructions OP posted say to check water balance every two weeks during the winter. I never touch mine from October to April and I never have a problem. pH a little high in Spring but CSI in range. CYA sometimes drops.

Do others check chem balance during the winter? I don't recollect seeing this discussed on here and I follow pretty closely. Pool school is silent on this, I just looked.
 

yogocoola

Member
Oct 8, 2010
6
Thanks for all the responses so far. I am draining the water down below the skimmer and drain holes now. My next question: what should I do with the Filter please? Should I remove it and bring it inside the house please?
 

yogocoola

Member
Oct 8, 2010
6
Regarding the steps below. I don't have a large shop vacuum. What can I do to blow out the plumbing? I have a wet/dry vacuum. Will this work?
Where are the drain plugs on the pump and filter, please?

"....
Blow out the lines - Using a large shop vacuum I blow out the plumbing. If you have more than one skimmer/return this should be done one at a time. I only have one of each so it is fairly easy. I use the shop vac blower outlet to blow air into the skimmer pipe and keep going until nothing but a very fine mist is coming out of the return. Then I let it run some extra time to get as much out as I possibly can.

Drain plugs - Remove the drain plugs on the pump, filter, and heater. I also remove the SWG cell assembly and various other parts of the Total Control system (sensors, acid tank, etc). The drain plugs get stored in the pump strainer basket, the Total Control parts go in the basement. Any drain plug hole exposed to the weather gets a layer of non-hardening joint compound on the threads to protect from rust.
...."
 

dmanb2b

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Apr 4, 2009
3,734
NY
wet/dry vac in reverse should work just fine, if not you can try your leaf blower. The pump plugs are usually located at the bottom of the pump basket.
 

yogocoola

Member
Oct 8, 2010
6
Thank you! Thank You and Thank you for all the help so far, mod!
Please tell me if I am doing this right?
My water level is below the skimmer and the 2 drain holes at this time.
1. I removed the 2 valves at the drain holes and put in the winter plugs
2. For the skimmer, I still see a lot of water, so I am using the wet/dry vacuum and suck them all out.
3. Now, I am going to use the wet/dry vacuum, and put in the verse into the skimmer pipe.
4. Once I am done w/ step#3, I'll remove the bolts at the bottom of the pump basket and the filters.
 

sloat

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 18, 2010
14
McAlester, OK
I think I have finally found the answer to my question, but let me ask straight-out just to make sure I am not mis-understanding. If I don't have trees to drop leaves into the pool and no other likely debris to worry about falling into pool over the winter, NOT using a winter pool cover shouldn't be a problem?? I am assuming if I add algaecide the potential of algae growth should be minimal. I have been VERY pleased since converting from Baquacil early this season and I want to try to do everything I can to continue to enjoy a TROUBLE FREE POOL. I have a deck almost all the way around my above ground 24' and, in the past, adding the cover and pillow and securing have been a pain in the butt. Is there any significant risk to not using a winter cover other than leaves that I need to consider?? Thanks for the help, as usual.
 

zea3

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2009
11,058
Houston, Texas
Algae usually does not grow in water below 60 degrees. If you keep the pool chlorinated as usual until the water is consistently below 60 you should'nt have to worry about algae, but you can use the algaecide if you wish. Just make sure you see 60% polyquat somewhere on the lable and make sure there are no metals (anything copper, silver, ect) in it.

I usually don't cover my above ground pool over winter and it is fine. Full of junk but fine. I don't get hard freezes or snow (usually) so I don't know if a cover makes a difference as far as that goes.
 

Darkside of the Pool

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 20, 2010
106
Covers are completely optionnal. But:

-What they do not catch, you'll have to scrap it from the bottom. Depending on your backyard setup, this may or may not include pets. There are gadgets that can be installed that will allow them to climb out. I know this is somewhat grim, but worth being mentionned.

- If you choose to use one and put it on for autumn/winter, especially for aboveground pools / mesh covers, it is very important the cover is not in contact with the water level when it freezes. This may damage the pool / cover, too much trouble for a 10-15$ air pillow IMHO.

* I am sorry if I've sent any feeling of fear, this wasn't the intention, simply a fair warning. *
 

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