Closing early before water temperature is below 60 degrees

al27

0
Sep 11, 2017
95
TN
We are closing early this year because our pool company is short on staff and the only opening they had was tomorrow (Oct 13). Due to a recent string of warm weather, water temperature has risen to 65-67 degrees so I plan on adding poly 60 at half shock level (8) tonight, after I vacuum the leaves out and decrease PH to 7.4-7.6 like is recommended on here.

I’ve read all of the helpful info on here about closing with polyquat. I have experience using it at lower water temperatures and it seemed to help if I opened up early enough. I worry about its effectiveness when closing with higher water temps though so I have a few questions about its use and what I could do to potentially prevent algae from setting in before the water temperature drops below 60.

1. If I add polyquat 60 at half shock level tonight and FC has dropped by half in the morning so it is at minimum FC level, should I increase FC back to half shock level so there is more chlorine remaining in the water or would this decrease the effectiveness of the polyquat? Last time I used it in cold water, it decreased FC by half to minimum shock level but I didn’t worry about it because water temperature was below 60 then.
2. What is the proper dosage of poly 60 for my 18K gallon pool? Last year, I added approximately 28 oz to my 18K gallon pool and it decreased FC to half so it was at minimum FC level. It also caused the PH to go up to a strange purple color so I assume it increased the PH. Is this the correct dosage for closing at higher water temperatures or should I add more or less of it? Should I add muriatic acid if it increases the PH to a strange purple color again?
3. Would it help lower the water temp and decrease the chances of algae developing if I kept tarps over my mesh cover during warm days to block out the sun until the water temperature drops since I’ve got an older mesh cover that may not block out all of the sun and have a CYA of only 30-40? I’ve read that this might help but it may be challenging to use them since leaves are falling right now.
4. If I peel back the cover and notice that algae has set in before the water temperature drops, would it help to pour some liquid chlorine in the pool and mix it in with a submersible pump or would this likely not do any good since polyquat was added and it’s hard to get it mixed in very good?
5. How can I prevent leaves from blowing under the cover since they increase the chances for algae. We’ve got 3 trees next to our pool so there is usually a lot of leaves in the pool when opening. I’ve never experienced tannin stains from the leaves but worry this could happen if algae sets in this fall and remains in the pool all winter.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
43,741
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
1. If I add polyquat 60 at half shock level tonight and FC has dropped by half in the morning so it is at minimum FC level, should I increase FC back to half shock level so there is more chlorine remaining in the water or would this decrease the effectiveness of the polyquat? Last time I used it in cold water, it decreased FC by half to minimum shock level but I didn’t worry about it because water temperature was below 60 then.

No.

Adjust the pH, adjust the FC then add the PQ60 and don't do more adjustments.

2. What is the proper dosage of poly 60 for my 18K gallon pool? Last year, I added approximately 28 oz to my 18K gallon pool and it decreased FC to half so it was at minimum FC level. It also caused the PH to go up to a strange purple color so I assume it increased the PH. Is this the correct dosage for closing at higher water temperatures or should I add more or less of it? Should I add muriatic acid if it increases the PH to a strange purple color again?

10-15 oz per 10K. So 28 oz for your 18K pool is fine.


How To Use Polyquat 60​

The following is Buckman Labs’ recommendation on how to use Polyquat 60 for closing your pool for the season.

As they recommend for proper winterization, the pool should be "shocked" with about 5-10ppm chlorine to destroy any lingering oxidant demand and remove any residual ammonia or chloramine, etc. After a couple of days, adjust the pH back to 7.2-7.6 and then add Polyquat 60 at the maximum rate as instructed per the label. This approach allows you to receive the highest benefit from both chemicals.

Note that Polyquat and linear quat algaecides are organic compounds that are known to cause interference's with certain color indicating reagents like pH indicators. Adjust the pH before adding Polyquat 60 and there is no reason to test pH after adding it.

Another point that they make regarding using this algaecide in pool water is that after the addition of Polyquat 60, it’s important to keep the circulation pump on for at least 24 hours to make sure that the algaecide is thoroughly distributed throughout the pool.

If you raise your water to SLAM FC level then you should let the FC drift down before adding Polyquat 60. Having a moderately higher level (½ SLAM level so the FC/CYA ratio of 20%) is okay as well. The idea is that the Polyquat should last through the winter even if the chlorine does not.[11]

Buckman Labs says that even if the Polyquat is broken down, it is still effective when used as an algaecide. Moderate to high levels of chlorine break down Polyquat but it still only transforms the formula into shorter chain polymers that are still just as effective


3. Would it help lower the water temp and decrease the chances of algae developing if I kept tarps over my mesh cover during warm days to block out the sun until the water temperature drops since I’ve got an older mesh cover that may not block out all of the sun and have a CYA of only 30-40? I’ve read that this might help but it may be challenging to use them since leaves are falling right now.

May help, can't hurt. Up to you.

4. If I peel back the cover and notice that algae has set in before the water temperature drops, would it help to pour some liquid chlorine in the pool and mix it in with a submersible pump or would this likely not do any good since polyquat was added and it’s hard to get it mixed in very good?

Deal with any algae problem in the Spring.

5. How can I prevent leaves from blowing under the cover since they increase the chances for algae. We’ve got 3 trees next to our pool so there is usually a lot of leaves in the pool when opening. I’ve never experienced tannin stains from the leaves but worry this could happen if algae sets in this fall and remains in the pool all winter.

You can't. Close the pool and don't worry about algae or tanins. Chances are you will be fine. You can deal with it when you open the pool.
 
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al27

0
Sep 11, 2017
95
TN
No.

Adjust the pH, adjust the FC then add the PQ60 and don't do more adjustments.



10-15 oz per 10K. So 28 oz for your 18K pool is fine.


How To Use Polyquat 60​

The following is Buckman Labs’ recommendation on how to use Polyquat 60 for closing your pool for the season.

As they recommend for proper winterization, the pool should be "shocked" with about 5-10ppm chlorine to destroy any lingering oxidant demand and remove any residual ammonia or chloramine, etc. After a couple of days, adjust the pH back to 7.2-7.6 and then add Polyquat 60 at the maximum rate as instructed per the label. This approach allows you to receive the highest benefit from both chemicals.

Note that Polyquat and linear quat algaecides are organic compounds that are known to cause interference's with certain color indicating reagents like pH indicators. Adjust the pH before adding Polyquat 60 and there is no reason to test pH after adding it.

Another point that they make regarding using this algaecide in pool water is that after the addition of Polyquat 60, it’s important to keep the circulation pump on for at least 24 hours to make sure that the algaecide is thoroughly distributed throughout the pool.

If you raise your water to SLAM FC level then you should let the FC drift down before adding Polyquat 60. Having a moderately higher level (½ SLAM level so the FC/CYA ratio of 20%) is okay as well. The idea is that the Polyquat should last through the winter even if the chlorine does not.[11]

Buckman Labs says that even if the Polyquat is broken down, it is still effective when used as an algaecide. Moderate to high levels of chlorine break down Polyquat but it still only transforms the formula into shorter chain polymers that are still just as effective




May help, can't hurt. Up to you.



Deal with any algae problem in the Spring.



You can't. Close the pool and don't worry about algae or tanins. Chances are you will be fine. You can deal with it when you open the pool.
Thanks for the advice. What could the repercussions be if we end up getting algae before the water temperature drops? Would the algae remain active all winter and could it cause staining in the gelcoat that could be difficult or impossible to remove since it has been there for 5 months? If the worst case scenario is that the SLAM will take longer but will eventually clear, I’ll rest easier because I’m pretty experienced at doing a SLAM since I do one every year.
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
43,741
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Thanks for the advice. What could the repercussions be if we end up getting algae before the water temperature drops?

None.

Would the algae remain active all winter and could it cause staining in the gelcoat that could be difficult or impossible to remove since it has been there for 5 months?

There is no winter super sticky algae.

If the worst case scenario is that the SLAM will take longer but will eventually clear, I’ll rest easier because I’m pretty experienced at doing a SLAM since I do one every year.

It is just normal algae that you have dealt with before.
 
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