Clearing a swamp pool - need help!

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hellokelli

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Jul 14, 2017
28
Baton Rouge, LA
Hi, I am new the forum and a new pool owner. I just bought a foreclosed house that has a pool on the property. From what the neighbors tell us, the house has been vacant for 3 years, so the pool has been left to it's devices for 3 years. When we bought it, it had a cover over it, but we suspect he cover was a recent addition. Here is what has happened so far:

-After removing the cover we tried to scoop out as much debris as possible. When we thought we had most of it out, we started working on getting the equipment up and running.

-Changed out the sand in the polaris filter (TA-60). Installed brand new Hayward variable speed pump. Found a clog in the jet line, so we by passed the return line by sending a pipe directly into the pool to return the water to the pool. Water started circulating.

-Started slamming the pool in combination with vacuuming. We got a leaf vacuum that works with the hose to get up more leaves from the bottom, so used that and also the manual vacuum to waste. Been doing that daily since July 15th.

-We got into the pool with goggles on to see what exactly was going on at the bottom of the pool since we couldn't see anything. Found even more debris that wasn't removed. Also found some stone pavers at the bottom of the pool (weird, right?). Removed everything from the bottom. As of this week, pool is 100% free of debris.

-Continued slamming it. Every evening we dump enough chlorine to raise the FC to shock level. Every morning we vacuum up the algae that settled. It's not looking better day by day like I imagine it should. Still green. Still can't see to the bottom of the deep end. Usually at night we shock it to 17ppm, when I wake up it's down to about 10ppm, by mid day it's down to 7ppm. Then we repeat the process.

-The really weird thing is that in the middle of this process there were 2 days when we weren't home because we went on a trip. When we returned from the trip the pool hadn't been vacuumed in 2 days and had just one jug of chlorine put in for us while we were gone...and it looked the best it's looked since we started this process. I thought that meant we were close to the end. Got the chlorine levels up to shock level again, and pool returned to it's ugly green swamp state. :brickwall: I am at a loss...


here are our test values as of this morning:

FC: 11.6
CC:0
pH: 7.5
TA: 110
Calcium: 30
CYA: I added some this week, but my test kit only goes as low as 30, and it is still showing below 30. I don't want to add more until I know what is in it is fully dissolved. Started out the process at 0. Right now somewhere between 0-30.

It's a liner pool that is about 25k gallons.

I am soooo confused and disheartened about the pool. Am I on the right track? Am I doing something completely wrong? Is it normal to take this long and see NO improvement??
 
Welcome to the TFP forum! A few questions:

1) What kind of test kit do you have? If it is one of our recommended (Taylor K-2006 or TF-100) that's good!
2) Can you add a signature to your posts? Simply click on "Settings" at the top of the page and scroll down to you see "Edit Signature" in the left column of boxes. The info we're looking for is type of pool (in-ground, above ground, plaster, etc.), size in gallons, pool filter make and model. Just look at the other signatures to get an idea of the info there.
3) How long have you been SLAMming the pool?

Now the good news: most SLAMs take at least a week and in extreme cases several weeks. Your pool did not become swamp overnight and it will not clear overnight. The beginning days of a SLAM are very important! The most important thing right now is to NOT let the FC drop below the recommended minimum for the SLAM. That is why it is called Shock Level And Maintain (SLAM). If you let the FC drop too much, you'll kill some of the organic nasties but the rest will keep growing when the FC is low.

Don't get frustrated and let your guard down. Get lots of fresh bleach and open a can of POP (Pool Owner Patience) and don't let the FC drop below the minimum. This will take numerous additions of bleach, maybe even every 2-3 hours at first! Hang tough!
 
We love a good swamp-to-oasis story! I'm impressed that you went to the bottom of that pool. I don't think I could do that!

Three things stand out to me:

- you're letting FC swing too low. That allows the nasties to get another foothold. You really have to stay on top of it at this stage.
- that you lose more FC in the day than you do at night suggests that you're losing FC to sunlight. Are you using poolmath to bump that up?
- swamps don't clear quickly. prepare for this to require patience and a lot of bleach
 
Two things stand out

CYA: I added some this week, but my test kit only goes as low as 30
Click to expand...
What CYA test is this, and what test kit are you using? Also, if you only added CYA "this week" that pretty much means you started this week. All you FC will be lost to the sun without any CYA.

Secondly, twice a day is not enough during a SLAM, 3 is the bare minimum, and that's not for swamps. Until it started clearing I would be aiming for like 6 times a day.

Final thought, how are you circulating the water? Filtering or Recirculate? How does the pressure change over time, are you backwashing when at 25% over post backwash PSI? How is the return pressure (your hand over return).

(Real) Final thought, it is not safe to swim in a pool you can't see the bottom of, let alone one ... that bad!
 
1. I have the Taylor Complete FAS-DPD chlorine K-2006 test kit

2. I added the signature, hope that helps :)

3. Since July 15th we have been raising the FC to at least 10 every day. I read somewhere it's best to add chlorine in the evening time, so that is what we had been doing, but now that I'm reading the replies I think a true SLAM requires adding Chlorine round the clock...so I haven't been doing that properly.
 
hellokelli said:
1. I have the Taylor Complete FAS-DPD chlorine K-2006 test kit

2. I added the signature, hope that helps :)

3. Since July 15th we have been raising the FC to at least 10 every day. I read somewhere it's best to add chlorine in the evening time, so that is what we had been doing, but now that I'm reading the replies I think a true SLAM requires adding Chlorine round the clock...so I haven't been doing that properly.
Click to expand...

Good test kit. You probably should get FAS-DPD refills.

Signature is not showing up. Are on a computer or mobile? Need to set up on a computer. Be sure the box is checked in the lower left corner of the Reply box

You do not have to add during the over night. But every two hours or so as said previously to start will jump start this. Plus getting as much debris out as possible. Can you vacuum to waste?
 
As for the CYA, we were loosing so much water to vacuuming to waste that we didn't want to waste money on CYA until we were done with that part. That was our reasoning at least. Added it Monday though.

We had been setting the filter on recirculate. Just switched over to filter recently. Backwashing when we notice we're not getting much water (about 2-3 times a day). Vacuuming to waste still because when I try to vacuum in filter I loose suction quickly. Pump is running 24/7.

- - - Updated - - -

mknauss said:
Signature is not showing up. Are on a computer or mobile? Need to set up on a computer. Be sure the box is checked in the lower left corner of the Reply box
Click to expand...

I think I didn't refresh this page, because I didn't see the "show your signature" box before. Should be there now I think...

mknauss said:
You do not have to add during the over night. But every two hours or so as said previously to start will jump start this. Plus getting as much debris out as possible. Can you vacuum to waste?
Click to expand...

Yes, we have been vacuuming to waste everyday. There is zero debris left. Every day we vacuum up the dead algae off the bottom and it's clear...then the next morning it's coated with more dead algae. But leaves and other organic debris is gone.
 
You need the CYA in there to protect the chlorine from UV degradation. Think of it as sunblock (among other things for the Chlorine), it stabilizes the chlorine and you must have it.

It is CORE to pool water chemistry. CYA stabilizes Chlorine so it can do it's job which is to kill the algae, if the chlorine is being used by algae and being degraded by UV you are not getting the most out of your $$$.

Saving CYA from backwashing is like not buying gas so your tires last longer.

Hope that helps!

Read pool school, you will whip that pool into shape in no time.
 

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It's finally starting to look better :D I've been checking the FC level every 2-3 hours while I'm awake and adding bleach as needed. Now when I wake up I don't see much algae on the floor at all:
IMG_0848.JPG

So I think I'm on the right track. My question is that I noticed now that there isn't gunk on the bottom of the pool that the water color is actually yellow. You can see that on the white stairs. I think it only looks green in the rest of the pool because the liner color is blue, and color theory tells me blue + yellow = green.

My question is, do you think this means I have been dealing with a mustard algae bloom? Do you think I need to keep my FC level at the mustard algae shock level?
 
You are doing well. Do NOT take your FC to mustard algae level. That is a very specific process, at the end of a successful SLAM, for a short period of time.

It is very doubtful you have mustard algae. Review this -- Pool School - Mustard Algae

Stay the course. Your frequent test/dose is what is moving you forward.

Take care.
 
You added cya, good move, to what level I am assuming 30.
Checking FC lots also a good move, what FC level are you using for Shock, cya of 30 = 12 ppm FC, Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
A little too soon to tell if it is mustard algae, complete SLAM first, then once you can see the sides of your pool, look for algae growing on the shaded walls.
Also make sure you take daily pictures of those steps, same time angle etc. it will make it easier to see your day over day progress.
 
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I've been SLAMMING for 4 solid days now (heading into the 5th). Before I went to bed the FC was 20. When I woke up at 8am it was 15. I wish I would have woke up earlier to test it truly right at the beginning of the sun. Oh well.

The bottom of the pool and the walls have no visible algae. The water is not cloudy, looks clear everywhere except in the very deep end. But the water is still very yellow/green.

I am now wondering if I need to add more CYA. I added enough that according to pool math it should be at 30. However, my test kit still doesn't show it at 30 yet. I added the CYA last Monday (jul 31). I tried to bring my water into my pool store (pinch-a-penny) to see if they could test the CYA and give me an accurate number below 30... they told me it was 100! I came straight back home and retested with my kit..still showing below 30. They also told me my FC was 8 and I knew it was above 12. Tested FC when I got home as well and the FC was 15. So, at this point I am thinking they accidentally confused my pool water with someone else's.

Since it's been close to one week since adding CYA, should I add more? How do I know how much to add now, since I don't actually know the accurate level I am currently at?

At this point it has plateaued and isn't showing improvement day by day like in the beginning. The water is not getting less yellow/green. Does that mean something is wrong?

Here is the latest pictures:
IMG_0849.JPG
and you can see the bottom of the pool:
IMG_0853.JPG
 
TonyN said:
Where did you buy the K2006 test kit? It's showing on UK Amazon at £693.00!!
Click to expand...

Here are some suggestions --
How to Buy Palintest: [SP 315C (similar to K-2005) AND/+ SP 300 FAS-DPD chlorine test]
UK: Tel: +44 (0) 191 491 0808 ext. 208 Email: [email protected] or camlabworld.com or pool-chem.co.uk

How to Buy Lovibond test kit:
UK: pro-swim.co.uk or lovibondwater.com or leisureteq.co.uk
 
This is great, definite progress, nice work! Be patient and persistent, clearing a pond is not a fast or effortless process. However, using the SLAM process to the letter it is relatively foolproof. Don't let up, for a single day.

Its really important to accurately figure out this CYA number. If by chance it is higher than you are determining with your test, your SLAM levels may not be high enough and it could be why you are seeing a "plateau". Keep in mind though, there are other variables that factor in and sometimes once you get closer to the promised land, progress seems slower...then one day you walk out and you will say "Wow!".

When you added CYA, how did you add? Granules or liquid? How much did you add? If you aren't seeing it at 30 yet, there's really no way to tell what its at with the K2006 as the minimum reading is 30. Is it even slightly hazy when you look at the dot? As long as you are following the recommended testing method (Test Kit Directions) it sounds like you need more CYA. However I'd double and triple test before adding in case its higher than you think so you don't wind up with excessive CYA and a new potential issue.
 

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