Clear water ... until I brush!

[bnoeafk]

So I've been battling this for a few weeks now... My water turns a tinge of green after about 3 days of this cycle:

1. Water appears green-ish. Brushing walls and floor (typically performed weekly) lifts green algae into the water making it cloudy
2. Backwash and drop in another 4.5lbs of DE into the filter (which remains at normal pressure when run at 3000rpm)
3. Water is crystal clear for about 3 - 4 days
4. Repeat

I am using the color strips which I'm now realizing doesn't give me the control of the water that I want/need so have ordered a TF-100 kit and am looking forward to receiving it.

I have a solar cover that I keep on overnight and days when the kids aren't in the pool, keeping the water temperature a little warmer than cool. My VS pump is on 24/7 (1500rpm) unless I'm cleaning / backwashing in which case I typically leave it running at 3000rpm until midnight when it drops back down to 1500rpm.

Question is: is there any I should be doing now to "prep" until the kit gets delivered? I'm constantly adding pH Up to the pool and, for the most part (all) chlorine levels (3" tablets) are within limits.

 

[mknauss]

Stop the tablets and add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine each evening with the pump running. The CYA in the pool water I suspect is very high. You most likely will have to drain/exchange a large amount of water.

You are having to add soda ash constantly because of the tablets.

When you get your test kit, post up the numbers.

 

[bnoeafk]

@mknauss ... 5ppm FC ... is that a stronger chlorine that one would normally purchase? ATM for liquid bleach I purchase from Ace Hardware or HomeDepot. (and should I completely stop using the tablets? I've just bought 80 more from CostCo but I can return them as I've not opened them yet). My issue with using liquid bleach before was that I really had no idea how much to put in - but I'm hoping that the TF-100 and the PoolMath app will assist with that?

 

[mknauss]

Use the Poolmath app. Go to Effects of adding Chemicals.
For your pool, 1 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will add just over 5 ppm FC to your pool water.

I suggest you return the Costco tablets. I suspect they have copper in them. And if you follow TFPC, you will not use that many tablets in many years.

 

[Newdude]

but I'm hoping that the TF-100 and the PoolMath app will assist with that?

See ?? You've learned already.

Keep it going and read up on ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Also, belated welcome !!

 

[Jeff J.]

@mknauss ... 5ppm FC ... is that a stronger chlorine that one would normally purchase? ATM for liquid bleach I purchase from Ace Hardware or HomeDepot. (and should I completely stop using the tablets? I've just bought 80 more from CostCo but I can return them as I've not opened them yet). My issue with using liquid bleach before was that I really had no idea how much to put in - but I'm hoping that the TF-100 and the PoolMath app will assist with that?

That means add enough liquid chlorine to add 5 parts per million to your pool. Use pool math to calculate it. Once you get your TF-100, you can find out what your CYA and other numbers are.

 

[bnoeafk]

Thanks to everyone thus far ...
@mknauss stated

You most likely will have to drain/exchange a large amount of water.

The only time I've pulled water from the pool is during a backwash. If the amount of water that I need to drain drops the water level below the skimmer (which it sounds like could well be the case) do I need a separate pump to draw all that water?

In the bottom of the skimmer, below the basket, there is a diverter which when I turn it, certainly affects the suction available within the skimmer and when I turn it to a position where the suction is less, I can only guess that it's then pulling from the drain at the bottom of the deep end of the pool - would that be the setting I'd need to use to draw water from below the level of the skimmer? If so, would I need to use something (perhaps a tennis ball, or flat metal sheet) to block the skimmer up completely to prevent anything being pulled from the skimmer, or having the diverter in that position would be enough?

Sorry for the noob questions - just trying to line my ducks (out of water!) up so that I can anticipate what's likely to be needed.


Dave

 

[mknauss]

If you need to drain / exchange water, you need a separate sump pump. You can buy one, I have a 1/2 hp Superior brand off Amazon, or you can rent a higher power one from Home Depot. Depends on how you drain, if you have to.

 

[bnoeafk]

Thanks @mknauss / Marty, @Jeff J. and @Newdude for all the feedback thus far ... fortunately I have a 1/2hp sump pump that I borrowed from a friend so I'll be using that if need be.

I thought about popping along to my local dollar store and seeing if they have bleach for sale. Is this a bad idea? Some say that store bought bleach from Walmart, CostCo or Target shouldn't be used (although I've read on TFP that others totally do this and it's fine) and/or cheaper stores (like a Dollar Store) have "old" bleach that's potentially not as strong as others as it's been stored for a long time (would we really know either way?) Looking at the bleach that we do have in the house, it's only 8.25% (as opposed to the 10% @mknauss) but I see that the rather fantastic PoolMath app will allow you to enter the strength and then will calculate the volume required accordingly, so perhaps this isn't too much of an issue?

Additionally, I'm getting conflicting comments about where to pour bleach/chlorine: not in the skimmer, near the skimmer, just the deep end, throughout the pool. So many questions!!

Thoughts on all of this??!

 

[mknauss]

Most household bleach has additives. The dollar store stuff is usually under 3%.
The best place for liquid chlorine/bleach are Walmart (Pool Essentials Chlorinating Liquid - Garden Section), Home Depot, Lowes, some pool stores, etc. See if you have a HASA dealer in your area.

Read Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool. Each section describes how the chemical should be put into the pool. Never directly to the skimmer.

 

[Jeff J.]

Most household bleach has additives. The dollar store stuff is usually under 3%.
The best place for liquid chlorine/bleach are Walmart (Pool Essentials Chlorinating Liquid - Garden Section), Home Depot, Lowes, some pool stores, etc. See if you have a HASA dealer in your area.

Read Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool. Each section describes how the chemical should be put into the pool. Never directly to the skimmer.

I've been buying the liquid chlorine from my local pool store (they call it liquid shock). I can be in and out in a few minutes. At my Home Depot, I may have to find parking, wait on line to get in (with the COVID precautions), walk to the far end of the store, wait in line to check out and walk back to my car. It's a big PITA. It is a few dollars more, though.

 

[carnivalday]

You might check with your Home Depot again. Mine has curbside pickup. I order online, drive there, park in designated spots, and they bring it out and load it up for me. Walmart too.

 

[Newdude]

I hope curbside pickup stays long after this is over. It’s like drive through Amazon and I’m really loving it. For some things like meats and produce I will always want to go look myself. Bleach.... Sheetrock screws..... Panera ..... *pulls up and pops trunk*.

 

[wireform]

If you buy the non pool made stuff like in homedepot or lowes it's called germicidal bleach. Basically additive free.

 

[Desert Dog]

bnoeafk,

You should have no trouble finding chlorine where you live. I'm not too far from Mission Viejo. HD will have it in the garden center (two jugs in a box). ACE usually carries the same the pool stores do. They have 4-one gallon white bottles in a yellow carry container. You do not have to buy all four. It is easier to buy all four, but have to pay a deposit for the carry case. Then you exchange the empty bottles for new ones. After the initial deposit it is $4 a gallon and is 12.5%. Hope that helps.

 

[bioguy]

@wireform Germicidal bleach is only 8.25%, so you will need more than if you buy the 10%. At my home depot, germidical is $6.58 per gallon. while chlorinating liquid (the 10%) is $9.98 for a 3 gallon case.

 

[wireform]

Was just throwing out there. That's completely up to the op if they can't find anything else being in a pinch.

 

[DoubleEcho]

I pick up 7-8 bottles of the Pool Essentials every 2 weeks when I go grocery shopping and use about 1/2 a bottle a day.

One tip - check the label to make sure you're getting the "freshest" chlorine based on the born on date. Easy way on the Pool Essentials bottles is to check the 3 digit date (uses Julian calendar date). For example, when I picked some up a couple days ago they had the top rack with a 150 number on the label the 2 bottom racks were 174.

150 - Born on May 29th
174 - Born on June 22nd

Since chlorine degrades over time get the freshest bottle. I keep mine in my basement where it's dark and cool instead of the hot garage. Every other day I just grab a bottle and I keep the "oldest" ones up front so I use them up first.

How to Read "Born-On" Date for Liquid Chlorine

Hi All, I am having trouble finding/deciphering the dates on the liquid chlorine I buy. I usually buy the 10% from either Home Depot (HSX brand) or mostly from Lowes (Kemtek). Chlorine seems pretty expensive here in Las Vegas. Walmart concentrated regular bleach (8%) was like $2.75 a gallon...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[bnoeafk]

Ok - well, first and foremost, thank you to everyone who's been kind enough to offer up advice, I've been adding in 10% chlorine (from Ace - $8 for 2 gallons and also found a HASA dealer that's 1/3 mile from me, so will pop in to see them tomorrow to get comparative prices (thank you @mknauss for that tip!)

So, I thought in the interest of those who care to follow a complete noob make all the mistakes I'm sure I'll make, I thought I would document the entire process as my TF-100 kit came today. From what I've read in other posts, CYA levels are the first to deal with, so that's the only test I performed and it hit a very substantial 100. That, I take it, isn't good. From what Marty stated, that sounds like a drain to me...

So, here goes:


Day 1
Actions taken

1. Retracted solar pool cover. Water is actually really clear, but half of the pool floor is the color of a Welcome mat for Martians. It's nice and warm though ...
2. All 3" "puck" chlorine tablets removed from the pool (until someone tells me to start using them again, I'm sticking with liquid bleach)
3. New case of 80 x 3" chlorine tablets returned to CostCo
4. Added 1 gallon of 10% bleach
5. Brushed walls and floor with pump running at 3000rpm
6. TF-100 kit arrives
7. CYA level = 100
8. Left pump running at 3000rpm

Questions asked

1. I can only assume that the CYA level means that I have to lose some/all of the water: how much water should I drain? I have a friends pump (0.5hp that can be fitted to a garden hose)
2. It's going to be crazy hot this weekend and I have three kids who will skin me alive if I drain the pool this (of all) weekends. I did purchase an algae control product (Chlorox). With continual chlorine (1 gallon/day) and the algae control added (eg tonight?) can I stave off draining until early next week and let the kids spend the weekend in the pool? Is there anything else I can do to assist?

 

[Newdude]

how much water should I drain?

To lower your CYA in half, you have to drain half. Do a dilution test to see if the # is actually over 100. Use half pool water and half tap water. Multiply the result by 2. You could very well be 150+ and have to drain 2/3.

pool this (of all) weekends. I did purchase an algae control product (Chlorox).

Pretty much stay away from any clorox product unless you specifically find it OK'd here. Most of their stuff causes various other problems, especially all of their bleach.

can I stave off draining until early next week and let the kids spend the weekend in the pool? Is there anything else I can do to assist

You would need to figure out the possible over 100 CYA # with the dillution test. Once you know for sure you need to have the minimum FC for your CYA per the FC/CYA Levels in order to be sanitary.