Cleaning Jandy pump basket, newbie question

[ShinDiors]

Pump is new single speed, there are two inlets (one for deep end skimmer+main drain; the other one from shallow end skimmer) going into the inlet pipe into the pump. The valve on inlet pipe going to pump only has three positions to either let one inlet from skimmers through or both inlets.

My equipment pad is actually a little below the pool water level. I read the Jandy manual about the cleaning basket says "close the isolation valves on the suction, and discharging side of the pump to prevent water backflow" if the pump is lower than water level. What are those valves in my case?

I just twisted open the lid and water is pouring out, so I put the lid back on immediately and locked it by hand while water is pouring and pushing the pump lid. I have power outage right now so cannot test the pump priming. Is there anything I should do when the power is back on?

Thanks a lot.

 

[ShinDiors]

What should be my steps to clean the pump basket? As the water is keeping gushing out, I had to adjust the basket a few times to make sure the opening aligns with the inlet port of the pump. Based on the pix of my set up, is this the normal way of doing it, just simply twist open the lid (pump off), clean the basket while the water gushing out (do I need to plug anything, say return line or skimmer suction line?)

 

[JamesW]

You can rotate the handle 180 degrees so that the "Off" letters are towards the pump and the handle is away from the pump.

You have to lift the handle a little bit to avoid the stops.

You can cut the stops off of the handle part so that you can rotate 180 degrees anytime you need.

Put a rock in the pump basket to keep it down.

You also have to close the return valves.

 

[ShinDiors]

You can rotate the handle 180 degrees so that the "Off" letters are towards the pump and the handle is away from the pump.

You have to lift the handle a little bit to avoid the stops.

You can cut the stops off of the handle part so that you can rotate 180 degrees anytime you need.

Put a rock in the pump basket to keep it down.

You also have to close the return valves.

View attachment 363435

Thanks so much.
There were two plastic protrusions that are preventing the handle from rotating 180 degree, I tried to lift the handle a bit but I don't feel it can go over the protrusions. Is this valve supposed to be closed both inlets (180 degree turn) since you mentioned "cutting off the stops"?

And where is the "return valve"? All the valves I had in the set up is in the pix, just that Jandy valve and the push/pull valve for the DE filter.

 

[JamesW]

The stop is a tab protruding from the bottom of the handle.

If you cut off the tab flush, you can rotate the handle without hitting the stops.

If you don't want to cut the tab, just loosen the screw so that you can lift the handle enough to miss the tab hitting the stop pegs on the valve.



Here is a video showing the handle replacement titled "How a Broken Diverter Valve Handle can Ruin Your Equipment & Cause Death", which is ridiculous and overdramatic. I'm not sure how it would cause death.

You don't want to try to run the pump with the valves closed, but it's not going to kill anyone.

If the return valve if left closed, the filter pressure can get high and it could potentially explode if there is some sort of defect.

An exploding filter can be quite dangerous. So, it's not totally ridiculous.

In any case, you have to close the valves for service since the equipment is below grade.

You don't want to forget to open the valves before starting the pump.

This shows the peg where the tab hits.

 

[JamesW]

My equipment pad is actually a little below the pool water level. I read the Jandy manual about the cleaning basket says "close the isolation valves on the suction, and discharging side of the pump to prevent water backflow" if the pump is lower than water level. What are those valves in my case?

Since the pump is below water, they should have installed a valve on the return to allow the system to be isolated for service.

The sweep 90s they used are DWV and they are not pressure rated. They need to be replaced, in my opinion.


They should have installed a check valve between the pump and the filter.

I would have used a multiport valve instead of a push/pull (slide) valve.

I would want a 3-way Jandy NeverLube valve between the pump and the filter to allow you to go to waste as needed.

 

[ShinDiors]

I see, per the manual, they intentionally put the "stops" there to prevent people shutting ALL suction lines then power the pump on. Not sure why the pool company used this valve in my set up, sounds not like the proper valve if I had to file down the "stops" /run the aforementioned risk.

 

[JamesW]

I see, per the manual, they intentionally put the "stops" there to prevent people shutting ALL suction lines then power the pump on.

Since the pump is below water level, you have to close all suction to do service.

There's no way to avoid it.

You could have used individual two-way valves on each line, but you would still have to close both valves to service the pump.

 

[JamesW]

These are pressure rated sweep 90s (see below flyer).

https://assets.speakcdn.com/assets/1824/sweeps2013.pdf

As you can see, the socket is much deeper.

The shallow sockets on the DWV (drain, waste, vent) 90s are not rated for pressure applications.