I'm about to sign a contract for a Viking fiberglass, 16x35. We're considering a SWCG, and my PB wants to sell us a cartidge filter. I'm not familiar witht these, I'm used to DE. How do the cartidge filters work? Are they better than DE?
DE is usually the best you can get. I have had my ctg filter for 4 years and I'm very happy with it. I just cleaned it today and it took about 20min to rise it out well. Mine is also one of the largest single element filters hayward makes (120 sq ft) so it's big but it dose the job well. IE...we filled the pool out of our creek...I could barely see the bottom step; after 60hrs of straight flitering and 3 cleanings (not because of pressure increase either) she is sparkling clean! So it's up to you. DE will filter to a smaller partical size, but you also have to backwash wich means adding more water and chems(cya,ch,ect). I don't mind the time it takes me, most people do.....maybe I'm nuts but time with my pool is relaxing, no-brain stuff to me!
PS: I just started using skimmer socks and they catch all kinds of teeny tiny nagts and things...I'm sure this will cut down cleaning time!
From my experience with pool builders they seem to shy away from DE filters. I think they dont want to explain the process to charge/maintain the DE filters. Its easier for them to explain popping out the cartridges and hose them off, etc. Offering the cartridges over sand makes them appear to have a more up to date product to sell.
Oddly enough my Pentair Clean & Clear Plus cartridge manual says to add .75 lb of DE per 100 sq ft of filter to enhance filtration. Problem is I can only find it in 25lb quanties and I only need 3lb. I dont like to store extra stuff I wont use...
Yes, that makes sense. Backwashing will dilute ALL pool chemicals so that means CH, TA, CYA, FC and salt. The only thing it doesn't change is the pH (depending on the pH of the fill water -- the fill water may have TA and CH in it as well). With an SWG, the only reason you might want the regular drain/refill that backwashing does for you is that hot and dry climates with lots of evaporation will cause a buildup of CH and TA from the fill water. Of course, one can always do that manually with a cartridge filter (not backwash, but partial drain/refill).
I have a cartridge filter and it's a 4-filter model for my 16,000 gallon pool and I've been very happy with it. My PB intentionally oversized it so that it wouldn't have to be cleaned so often and I'm so glad he did that. I only clean it once a year and I probably wouldn't even need to clean it that often. There's never a pressure rise and it doesn't look very dirty, even after a year. I have an opaque electric pool cover, however, so not much junk gets into the pool and I think that also helps a lot. When I want to intentionally dilute my pool water, I can feed the winter rains from the top of the pool cover (that has a small pump on it) and feed the hose into the main pool water to cause it to overflow and dilute.
I dont know about "best" but my PB oversized my cartridge filter intentionally as that seems to be the current trend. Mine is a Pentair Clean & Clear plus 420 SQ FT 4 filter model. My pool is 15250 gallons.