Cannot get water to clear

Jeffsp

Member
Jun 2, 2015
18
Keyport, NJ
Hello all. Been a member for a little while but don’t post much. Water has been green for the past month. After brushing and shocking a few times, it’s a little green but mostly cloudy. Hoping to clear up the water before closing it for the winter.
I’ve shocked the pool twice this past week, one pound each time, Cal hypo, which is rated for 13,500 gallons, couple days apart. I’m using a 150sqft cartridge filter with a brand new cartridge installed a couple days ago and I’m seeing no pressure change in the output of the filter. I’m alternating the filter intake between using my auto floor vacuum and just pulling water thru the skimmer Pool is a 21ft round above ground, approximately 10,000 gallons. I’ve generally had good luck with brushing, shocking, and then running the filter with a clean cartridge to get clear, but not having success this time. Tested levels last night.
Current test levels:
FC: 0
Alkalinity: 40
pH: 6.8
CYA: 0
I shocked the pool one day prior to this.
I don’t have test parameters for calcium or TC. Already looking into getting a more reliable testing setup.

Obviously my water is way out of balance. I had the water balanced, but I got laxed in pool care since it hasn’t been getting used the last month and we’ve had several multi inch rain storms that I’m sure threw it off.
I began by adding 3lbs baking soda last night to try and up the alkalinity and pH. Will retest tonight. And adjust as needed.

My questions are:
I’m considering trying the slam method.
Should I be adding stabilizer to the pool prior to this? After? I also have algaecide and clarifier. I read that clarifier isn’t necessary, but Should I be using either these at any point before, during, or after the process?

And finally, I’ve just started using this shock, it’s HTH brand cal hypo shock. I used to use the stuff available at my pool store, or the Clorox brand from Lowe’s and always had success with shocking and running the filter. I’m reading that hypo cal can cause cloudy water. Is that another possible cause? And if so, how would I clear the water from the cal hypo?

I know it’s a long read, sorry. And thanks to all for the help.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
44,349
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Follow the SLAM Process
You need a proper test kit. Do you have a FAS-DPD kit?
Add more baking soda to get your TA to 50+. That should get your pH to 7 or above.

30 ppm of CYA is recommended for the SLAM Process

Neither algaecide or clarifier is requited.
 
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lawjohn

Well-known member
May 2, 2013
68
Jeffsp. Mknauss guidance is what needs to be done. I had your problem about 10 days ago and I followed the SLAM instructions and 4 days later my water is crystal clear with no combined chlorine either. John
 

Jeffsp

Member
Jun 2, 2015
18
Keyport, NJ
Thank you for the responses.
I’ll use the slam method. I know the slam method calls for liquid chlorine or bleach. Can I use di-chlor since I’m trying to raise the cya as well?
 

Bperry

Gold Supporter
Aug 20, 2020
1,001
Knoxville, TN
Pool Size
27000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60
Thank you for the responses.
I’ll use the slam method. I know the slam method calls for liquid chlorine or bleach. Can I use di-chlor since I’m trying to raise the cya as well?
It’ll take too long that way and you may overshoot your CYA level. It’ll be way cheaper using liquid as well. Get the good test kit first though and stay out of the pool store free test line.
 

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
44,349
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Di chlor is also very acidic.

Use liquid chlorine.
 
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wireform

Silver Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 15, 2017
3,118
Spring Valley, NY
Jeff,
There's no mention on your testing method and that may be one of your issues. My opinion is let it go and deal with it next spring. By the time you figure things out and get it better it'll be too cold to swim.
 

Jeffsp

Member
Jun 2, 2015
18
Keyport, NJ
Thank you all for the responses again.
I’m currently using test strips, they test for FC, pH, alkalinity, and CYA. I’m sure there’s a good possibility that they are not that accurate. Can anyone make a recommendation for a test kit? I’m looking at adding a Taylor K1515 for a FAS-DPD kit and sticking with strips for the other tests. That sound ok? Or is going with something like a k2006 kit necessary?

I Checked alkalinity and pH and hour ago, it has come up about half the amount I needed, so I Added another 3lbs of baking soda. Will retest again tomorrow night. Going to get pool stabilizer to raise cya to 30ppm and will start the slam method this weekend with liquid chlorine.
Wireform, I had consider closing it up and leaving it for next year. As tempting as that sounds to do, I’d like to make the attempt to get the water clear before closing for the season.