Cannot Get Chlorine Above 1

[brucers]

Hi All,

Newish pool owner (still learning lots). Last summer was my first year, learned a lot but not enough. Clearly.

I have a 20,000 gallon in ground pool. Last year I used trichlor heavily (every day treatment and shock) at the advice of Leslie's. Our pool is literally in direct sunlight 85% of the day so we've battled algae as well. Part of the algae issue was that our CYA was almost non existent. Leslie's also recommended adding stabilizer to our water. As you can imagine, my CYA levels jumped significantly and this is a problem we've faced since last into the summer and into this year as no one told me to watch CYA levels with stabilized chlorine. I'm not even sure I knew what stabilized chlorine was until getting my own pool. I also live in Central California where drought is a HUGE concern; dumping and refilling your pool to reset and start from scratch is not really an option.

This year, about two weeks ago, I tried the new to market Bio Active and was successful; CYA measured at 145 when I started treatment and it brought CYA down to 60. While a little high, from what I read, it's easier to work with I just have to keep chlorine levels between 5-9. I also have had my water tested and found out my phosphates were extremely high. I read that this is not a problem as long as you are maintaining your pool properly. However, to be sure, I invested in a phosphate removal and balanced my pool (chlorine was at 1) and treated, following the directions closely. I need to have my water tested again to verify where phosphates are. How concerned should I be about phosphates?

My newest problem is that I cannot get a measure of chlorine higher than 1. I only use non stabilized chlorine now; I was using the 10% liquid from Home Depot and following the SLAM recommendations on pool math and added the suggested chlorine amount after the bio active did it's job. I continued to treat with this until the pool was blue and clear again. I tested water following treatment and it read 1. I had this verified with a local pool store too. I was told to switch to Cal Hypo granules because it takes longer to dissolve and the liquid burns off too quickly (it was my impression that CYA would protect at the levels I am at). Guess not? I am now using 53% Cal Hypo from HTH with the same results. I did not follow SLAM for the granules because I didn't feel there was a need to shock again but maybe I am wrong?

So my question is, why won't my pool hold chlorine? Is chlorine lock an issue? Chlorine demand doesn't seem to be the cause since FC and TC are equal. All my measurements for adding chlorine are based on current CYA using pool math. I tested my own water and had it tested by a local pool store and our numbers were just about the same.
FC 1
TC 1
pH 7.4
TA 100
CH 270
CYA 60

Any suggestions? I am open to feedback on my thoughts, readings, and current situation--I am and will always be learning.

Thank you in advance.

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 Test Kit ™

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

 

[brucers]

Welcome to the forum!
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 Test Kit ™

While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

Thank you for this!

 

[Strawberryshortcake]

If I am not mistaken, that Bio Active product takes away CYA in your pool by adding ammonia? Or something of that nature? Ammonia will eat through chlorine in an instant. I imagine you might need to follow the procedure to fight ammonia at this stage?
I think the way it is supposed to work is that it also introduces nitrogen somehow, which kills of the ammonia, but from what I've read about it - bio active doesn't always reach that final stage, and you have a pool full of ammonia.
Don't quote me on any of that... it's just stuff I've read in passing about that product in particular! Maybe someone more knowledgeable of it will chime in.
They also make ammonia test I think you can get from the pet store, in the fish section.
Does your test kit show combined chloramines?
Is your bleach fresh? Check the date; I have noticed bleach from my local Lowes in a YEAR OLD, which is basically salt water and will do nothing. 10% shouldn't be really more then 1-2mo old at the time of purchase or it will start to degrade, especially if they've left it outside in the heat.

 

[brucers]

According to the website, Bio Active is bacteria and enzymes that break down CYA. Some bacteria produce ammonia when they break down waste which requires additional bacteria to break that down to nitrites and finally an additional bacteria to break that down to nitrates. I used to have a reef saltwater tank which requires knowledge of these three parameters (among others). I used an API water test kit and ammonia is very low for the amount of Bio Active I used (one pouch). That could also be because of previous chlorine treatments used. Ammonia is currently measuring 0.25 PPM and nitrites are at zero.

 

[wireform]

The slam process will overcome whatever is consuming the chlorine, It might just be a longer fight.