Built-in grill peeps. . . I got a question!

jimim

Bronze Supporter
Jun 20, 2016
2,599
NE/Pa
ok people. my plumber was over the house today. we had to get a plan to run my gas line for the grill into my building. so that's not my question. my question is I bought a weber summit. the manual says the gas hookup it to be on the right side of the grill. not underneath it. they say it's for ventilation cause under the grill is not ventilated. i find that hard to believe. i mean it has 2 stainless doors that are magnet latched. sooooo in theory if there was a gas leak there is no way you wouldn't not smell it if the connection was under the grill vs out the side. we want o connect under the grill vs side for ease of service. that way u open the door and disconnect and can slide the grill out vs crawling though a small door under my sink to reach in and disconnect. my plumber sees nothing wrong doing the connection under the grill in it's base cabinet. i personally don't either. i know even without ventilation IF there was a gas leak you would deff smell it. gas leaks are strong!

what do you all think? do our own thing and connect under the grill or make the connection to the side like it says and have to deal with bending your body through a door and around a corner.

jimi
 

jimim

Bronze Supporter
Jun 20, 2016
2,599
NE/Pa
3688B878-8D25-4C41-97C5-2E2A7E4EBE27.jpeg

U would have to do in through that door. It’s 24 inches wide and get around the corner to where I have the black dot. The connection would be like 2 inches away from the corner so u would have to reach around a little. I’m small so I can fit bit man it would be a pain bs just under the grill.
 

Arizonarob

Gold Supporter
Silver Supporter
TFP Guide
Mar 25, 2018
3,191
Chandler Arizona
Jim, I would call Weber and ask them WHY it needs to be on the side, and if it would work fine being done underneath. I’m sure it would work, but if anything ever happens, well, you know how insurance companies and lawyers are.
Always C.Y.O.A!! :cheers:
 

Arizonarob

Gold Supporter
Silver Supporter
TFP Guide
Mar 25, 2018
3,191
Chandler Arizona
After looking at your picture, why can’t you have the hard line coming up to the right side of your grill, cut a hole in the cabinet of the grill, then to access the connection, you would just open the doors below the grill? :scratch:
 

jimim

Bronze Supporter
Jun 20, 2016
2,599
NE/Pa
Totally hear ya on that. I can literally open up the side of the grill to access the connection if need be vs crawling around the other side through my cabinet. Good idea.

I called Weber 3 times. 3 times same scripted answer. For ventilation and heat build up. I personally don’t get it. I didn’t even plan on adding vents to my setup cause again if it leaked I would smell it.

Ok so here is something else I just thought of and this has me worrying. My framing is wood around the grill. I totally never ever thought about it. I oitcthst framing in to holdctje countertops so we didn’t have to put masonry you wouldn’t see everywhere. Now I feel like I should cut it out and use metal.

Nothing like thinking about this stuff in the 24th hour.
 

Geebot

Well-known member
Aug 19, 2013
902
Their installation manual says non-combustible materials. Safest option is metal framing with cement board.
 

jimim

Bronze Supporter
Jun 20, 2016
2,599
NE/Pa
That’s what I’m going to do. I prob would have no issues but I’m not taking a chance. I won’t need any cement board causectje studs that need to go are for the counter support rest is all masonary if u look at my pic or even the ones in my build. I’m going to cut everything out that is within 2 feet of the grill. I can’t believe we didn’t think about that. Stupid mistake.
 

jimim

Bronze Supporter
Jun 20, 2016
2,599
NE/Pa
387E7263-D2EC-4B84-A54F-813FB8E67806.jpeg

So I’ll take out the 2 side walls and back wall outcto the stud that is 24 inches away.

I’m going to frame right on top of the pressure treated base.

I never framed with metal studs so I just have to look up online today I guess how to do corners where one wall needs another wall so that they could be tied in properly cause I know they are not a solid piece of metal like a wood stud is.

I also assume you just use self tappers to attach everything?
 

Arizonarob

Gold Supporter
Silver Supporter
TFP Guide
Mar 25, 2018
3,191
Chandler Arizona
Now I feel like I should cut it out and use metal.
(y)
I’m going to cut everything out that is within 2 feet of the grill. I can’t believe we didn’t think about that. Stupid mistake.
You know how many times I’ve pulled the “stupid mistake” lever during projects. Everything looks great in your head, until you look at it with your eyes!! :LOL:
I also assume you just use self tappers to attach everything?
Yeah, they’re usually little black stubby screws. Wear cloves when you work with the steel studs, the edges and corners are sharp!! :cheers:
 

jimim

Bronze Supporter
Jun 20, 2016
2,599
NE/Pa
Thanks rob. I have to see if I have room for 2x6 on back wall like I have now. I don’t think I do cause I didn’t realize a metal stud is full 6 inch vs a wood 2x6. So I’ll use all 3 5/8 base and studs. I’m going to attach to the pressure plate already down so I’m nice and level. I think I’ll also use 20 gauge vs 25 gauge for more support for the granite in those areas. 7/16 self drill for studs and coated 1 5/8 or 1 1/2 inch for base to pressure treated.

Oh and I need a metal blade for my chop saw for the studs. I have snips for base and top.

Ya gloves. Good idea. I’m so bad with osha approved gear. I’m lucky if I tie my boots when I work outside. Lol

Am I missing anything? This will be my first go with metal so we shall see.
 

Arizonarob

Gold Supporter
Silver Supporter
TFP Guide
Mar 25, 2018
3,191
Chandler Arizona
You really don’t need a blade for your chop saw, tin snips work fine. I tried a blade once (going after perfect cuts) and the metal shavings flying everywhere was crazy.
 

Arizonarob

Gold Supporter
Silver Supporter
TFP Guide
Mar 25, 2018
3,191
Chandler Arizona
You can also shorten the width of the 2x6 metal stud to match the wood ones by simply notching the area you need, (where your grill fits) then start cutting back towards the wall on the 6” portion, then re-bend the side down using either duck bill plyers, or lineman’s plyers.
 

jimim

Bronze Supporter
Jun 20, 2016
2,599
NE/Pa
Got myself all setup. Only problem is my tap cons are not flush with my plate so I’m just going to take my top plates and attach them to the pressure treated to make everything nice and flat. I can’t get the tap cons in any further. No big deal. I got all my screws I need and I grabbed a metal blade for my chop saw. They are only 7 bucks so no big deal. Will be nice and quick. I just have to grab material. Suppose to rain tomorrow so Friday.

I’m still mad I messed up. Seems like such a rookie mistake. LolCBEEFBBB-D46A-4553-A6A7-572C9334DF5F.jpeg
 

kimkats

Mod Squad
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 10, 2012
43,315
Tallahassee, FL
Jim you got this! The only time to be mad at your self would have been IF you did not catch it before it burned up :shock: Think of your buddies and dad.............they did not catch it either!!! So.......no biggie!!

Jim I want to see a pic of boots (tied optional LOL), gloves, and safety glasses ON! :hug:

Kim:kim:
 

jimim

Bronze Supporter
Jun 20, 2016
2,599
NE/Pa
Jim you got this! The only time to be mad at your self would have been IF you did not catch it before it burned up :shock: Think of your buddies and dad.............they did not catch it either!!! So.......no biggie!!

Jim I want to see a pic of boots (tied optional LOL), gloves, and safety glasses ON! :hug:

Kim:kim:
Lol I know I know safety first.
 

dw886

Gold Supporter
Sep 19, 2016
231
ND
Got myself all setup. Only problem is my tap cons are not flush with my plate so I’m just going to take my top plates and attach them to the pressure treated to make everything nice and flat. I can’t get the tap cons in any further. No big deal. I got all my screws I need and I grabbed a metal blade for my chop saw. They are only 7 bucks so no big deal. Will be nice and quick. I just have to grab material. Suppose to rain tomorrow so Friday.

I’m still mad I messed up. Seems like such a rookie mistake. LolView attachment 95217
Get more blades - it'll save you a trip half-way through your build. I did an outside bar using galvanized studs after having mostly experience with wood, and started by using tin snips (which would likely have worked fine with normal gauge galvanized steel, but thinking bigger is better, I got heavier duty studs. They were impossible to cut using the videos on youtube that show two snips, and bending it back and forth twice. I had to bend it back and forth like 20 times for it to finally break, and moved on to the saw.

I think I went through 5 blades. Problem was that the blade (which is really like a grinding wheel) would get smaller with each cut, and eventually they're not big enough to get through the stud...

I had milwaukee impact phillips bits, and they'd break/chip every 15-25 screws with the self-tapping galvanized pan-head screws that are used for steel framing. If you don't have any, I'd grab extras of these too before you get too far underway...
 

jimim

Bronze Supporter
Jun 20, 2016
2,599
NE/Pa
Thanks man. I’m ahead of you already I bought extra blades cause I heard they wear out quick and I bought a ton of self tapping screws. I’ll just return what I don’t use. Luckily I’m only framing out like 10 linear feet total. I’m only redoing around the grill and I decided to use the 25 gauge vs the heavier stuff. I have brick that will be taking most the weight as u can see in the pictures so I just need support pretty much here and there.

Thanks for the heads up! This is deff a learning experience. I am doing to try and use snips like rob was saying above to maybe avoid the huge mess. I’ll see how it goes. Either way at least I have what I need so I don’t have to stop and start. I hate that. Let weeekend when we did the gutters we had to start and stop 5 times for stupid random stuff.

Jim