Build in Tampa - Pool, spa, lanai, outdoor kitchen, oy vey

Re: Build in Tampa - Pool, spa, lanai, outdoor kitchen, oy vey

If automated you will have Jandy type valves. They may need repair some day.

Valves wear out, need repair. You can take apart and repair Jandy type valves. Basic plastic ball valves, you cannot.
 
Re: Build in Tampa - Pool, spa, lanai, outdoor kitchen, oy vey

Manny,

I love your choices and your plan looks amazing! I took a quick looks at your builder's quote and the only thing that caught my eye was the IC20 SWCG; I would strongly recommend upping that to an IC40. I did not catch what type of pool cleaner (Hayward, Kreepy Krauly, Barracuda ... Etc) but you may want to ensure that the floor to wall radius' are large enough for the cleaners to climb the pool walls. After reading your pool journey, it brought back memories of my pool build 7 years ago. Feel free too to browse through my journey here ---> https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/27411-Getting-Finished-(Pool-Build-Central-FL) Best of luck with your build!
 
Re: Build in Tampa - Pool, spa, lanai, outdoor kitchen, oy vey

Manny,

My comment on the heat pump is that it may have some limitations, not saying it won't be what you want it to be. I have not personally used a heat pump in tampa to heat a spa in the winter, but have used gas. Here are what I perceive to be the limitations, and admittedly I may be wrong about this. My understanding is that pool heat pumps have a hard time creating heat for the water when the air temp is below 60 degrees, and below 50 degrees many don't even work at all. For a pool in your area that isn't too much of a concern-- you pump heat into the pool during the day when it's above 60 degrees, and if it happens to drop to 55 at night, your pool can still be 80 degrees. All is good. There is also a practical limit to how much hotter than the air the heat pump will make the water-- and as it gets colder that number goes down.


For your spa, the scenario may be different though. You may have different demands of your spa-- some people like to get in the spa in the evening, after a hard day of work. On colder nights in that area, you may not be able to heat the spa any more than it already is, so you'll have to heat it earlier in the day. And you'll have to heat it to a higher temperature than you desire and then it will cool down over night-- and as you've stated, you're not going to cover this spa, so it will cool down relatively quickly. This isn't the end of the world. What I'm saying is that on colder nights, your spa may not be over 90 degrees, and you may not be able to heat it up any further until the temperature gets back over 60. That may be fine for how you want to use the spa and the pool and for what you expect out of your heater and your water temperature.

As for the comment about safety--in your post from 1/13, in which you appear to paste in the specifications of your build, it specifically indicates that 45ft of fencing OR window alarms are included. My point is that you will need more than 45 feet of fencing to adequately fence that pool based on the dimensions you have provided. From your subsequent comments it's clear that you intend to properly fence the perimeter of the pool and have chimes on the doors leading from the home to pool area. I'm not suggesting that more than that is required, but it wasn't clear to me from your first description that you were planning to do this. There is a safety aspect to that, and also a budgeting aspect to it-- sucks to get hit with an extra $2k on the end of the project because they included 45 feet of fence, and you need a lot more than that, and you know that you're not the kind of person to leave it unfenced.
 
Re: Build in Tampa - Pool, spa, lanai, outdoor kitchen, oy vey

Manny,

My comment on the heat pump is that it may have some limitations, not saying it won't be what you want it to be. I have not personally used a heat pump in tampa to heat a spa in the winter, but have used gas. Here are what I perceive to be the limitations, and admittedly I may be wrong about this. My understanding is that pool heat pumps have a hard time creating heat for the water when the air temp is below 60 degrees, and below 50 degrees many don't even work at all. For a pool in your area that isn't too much of a concern-- you pump heat into the pool during the day when it's above 60 degrees, and if it happens to drop to 55 at night, your pool can still be 80 degrees. All is good. There is also a practical limit to how much hotter than the air the heat pump will make the water-- and as it gets colder that number goes down.


For your spa, the scenario may be different though. You may have different demands of your spa-- some people like to get in the spa in the evening, after a hard day of work. On colder nights in that area, you may not be able to heat the spa any more than it already is, so you'll have to heat it earlier in the day. And you'll have to heat it to a higher temperature than you desire and then it will cool down over night-- and as you've stated, you're not going to cover this spa, so it will cool down relatively quickly. This isn't the end of the world. What I'm saying is that on colder nights, your spa may not be over 90 degrees, and you may not be able to heat it up any further until the temperature gets back over 60. That may be fine for how you want to use the spa and the pool and for what you expect out of your heater and your water temperature.

As for the comment about safety--in your post from 1/13, in which you appear to paste in the specifications of your build, it specifically indicates that 45ft of fencing OR window alarms are included. My point is that you will need more than 45 feet of fencing to adequately fence that pool based on the dimensions you have provided. From your subsequent comments it's clear that you intend to properly fence the perimeter of the pool and have chimes on the doors leading from the home to pool area. I'm not suggesting that more than that is required, but it wasn't clear to me from your first description that you were planning to do this. There is a safety aspect to that, and also a budgeting aspect to it-- sucks to get hit with an extra $2k on the end of the project because they included 45 feet of fence, and you need a lot more than that, and you know that you're not the kind of person to leave it unfenced.
I may be wrong, but I believe the 45’ of fencing is referencing the removable type of fencing that is installed between the home and the pool. Per code, you are required that fence, or alarms on all windows and doors that exit to the pool. I don’t believe what is in the quote is referring to a perimeter fence for the yard.
 
Re: Build in Tampa - Pool, spa, lanai, outdoor kitchen, oy vey

Do a search for them:

jandy pool valves - Google

Do NOT allow the ball type from Lowes or such:

Shop AMERICAN VALVE PVC Sch 40 3/4-in Socket PVC x 3/4-in Socket PVC Ball Valve at Lowes.com

Cheaper but not worth it.

Kim
C:\Users\MPagan\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\clip_image001.gif

Just asked, I'm getting Jandy valves.

Manny,

I love your choices and your plan looks amazing! I took a quick looks at your builder's quote and the only thing that caught my eye was the IC20 SWCG; I would strongly recommend upping that to an IC40. I did not catch what type of pool cleaner (Hayward, Kreepy Krauly, Barracuda ... Etc) but you may want to ensure that the floor to wall radius' are large enough for the cleaners to climb the pool walls. After reading your pool journey, it brought back memories of my pool build 7 years ago. Feel free too to browse through my journey here ---> https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/27411-Getting-Finished-(Pool-Build-Central-FL) Best of luck with your build!

Thanks for the feedback. Upgraded to the IC40.

Manny,

My comment on the heat pump is that it may have some limitations, not saying it won't be what you want it to be. I have not personally used a heat pump in tampa to heat a spa in the winter, but have used gas. Here are what I perceive to be the limitations, and admittedly I may be wrong about this. My understanding is that pool heat pumps have a hard time creating heat for the water when the air temp is below 60 degrees, and below 50 degrees many don't even work at all. For a pool in your area that isn't too much of a concern-- you pump heat into the pool during the day when it's above 60 degrees, and if it happens to drop to 55 at night, your pool can still be 80 degrees. All is good. There is also a practical limit to how much hotter than the air the heat pump will make the water-- and as it gets colder that number goes down.


For your spa, the scenario may be different though. You may have different demands of your spa-- some people like to get in the spa in the evening, after a hard day of work. On colder nights in that area, you may not be able to heat the spa any more than it already is, so you'll have to heat it earlier in the day. And you'll have to heat it to a higher temperature than you desire and then it will cool down over night-- and as you've stated, you're not going to cover this spa, so it will cool down relatively quickly. This isn't the end of the world. What I'm saying is that on colder nights, your spa may not be over 90 degrees, and you may not be able to heat it up any further until the temperature gets back over 60. That may be fine for how you want to use the spa and the pool and for what you expect out of your heater and your water temperature.

As for the comment about safety--in your post from 1/13, in which you appear to paste in the specifications of your build, it specifically indicates that 45ft of fencing OR window alarms are included. My point is that you will need more than 45 feet of fencing to adequately fence that pool based on the dimensions you have provided. From your subsequent comments it's clear that you intend to properly fence the perimeter of the pool and have chimes on the doors leading from the home to pool area. I'm not suggesting that more than that is required, but it wasn't clear to me from your first description that you were planning to do this. There is a safety aspect to that, and also a budgeting aspect to it-- sucks to get hit with an extra $2k on the end of the project because they included 45 feet of fence, and you need a lot more than that, and you know that you're not the kind of person to leave it unfenced.

Thanks for clarifying. If the heat pump gives us heating problems during the colder months I'll happily install a gas heater since we're burying a tank for the outdoor kitchen. I suspect during the late spring to early fall no heating will be required. We opted for no screen, so our pool should easily hit 80+ degrees 6 months out of the year. During the spring and fall is when we'll probably get the most use out of the heat pump, and during the 2 or 3 months when the weather dips below 60 I suspect we'll not use the pool since my family is a bunch of warm bodies. :D

And regarding the fencing, the quote refers to “45ft of Deco Drain 2” We opted for no safety fencing immediately around the perimeter of the pool. Instead we went with the door and window alarms and a perimeter fence around the back yard that encompasses the pool, all within county code).
 
Re: Build in Tampa - Pool, spa, lanai, outdoor kitchen, oy vey

From your post on 1/13, five lines up from the bottom of the text, before the pictures

"Child Safety Fence 45 ft or window Alarms"
Right. That type of fence basically runs in a straight line (usually) to keep anyone from coming out of the house and falling into the pool. It is not intended to protect anyone coming from any other area of the property. A 45’ child fence is plenty long enough in most instances to provide that type of barrier. Either a child fence or window and door alarms are required by code. That line is not referring to fencing the perimeter of the pool. :)
 
Re: Build in Tampa - Pool, spa, lanai, outdoor kitchen, oy vey

And the fun begins. This week we went to contract with 1) a pool builder for the pool, spa, and outdoor kitchen and 2) a contractor for the lanai. Everything went to permitting today. Total estimated cost is $130,000 consisting of the following:

$29,661 – Lanai
Demolition of existing lanai, construction of engineered 14’ x 45’ lanai, four fans, twelve recessed lights, six GFIs, two cable/electrical drops, 4’ x 20’ AC and equipment slab, relocation of AC units to new slab

$16,700 – Outdoor kitchen
14’ x 14’ x 10 horseshoe, 3’ think countertop , 18” bartop, stone façade, granite top, Weber grill, Blaze Professional power burner, oversized sink, fridge, lots of cabinets, couple GFIs

$15,000 – Other
Outdoor furniture, 2 TVs, backyard fence, landscaping, buried propane tank

$68,000 – Pool and spa
POOL SIZE: 420 SQ FT 3.6ft to 5.5ft 426Sq Ft 10K Gallons 33 FT x 15 FT
DECK SIZE: 1200 SQ FT includes Lanai Coverage
Lifetime structural guarantee 3 year warranty on all equipment
Engineered plans and necessary permits
Normal grading and removal of sod from pool site and deck area
Steel reinforcing, engineered for pool requirements
Mini shuttle Dig 420 SQ FT POOL
High strength bond beam Gunite shell 3500 P.S. I
Six inch band of glass 6x6 waterline tile
One set of hand formed shallow end steps
Large 6ft x 11 ft Sunshelf W/ 2 Intellibright LED Bubbler Fountain W/ Umbrella Holder
Swim out Bench in Deep end
Dual Main Drains 4 Returns
Automatic Wide-Mouth Skimmer in Beam/ Deep Heat Return
Dedicated Vacuum Line W/ Child safety cap
2 Pool/Spa Intellibrites Color LED Lights
Easy touch 4 automation PPOL/SPA W/ Screen Logic Interface
Interior Finish Pebble Mini Tahoe Blue Series 3
Electrical hook up all
IntelliPro V.S energy efficient 2.9 Pump PENTAIR P6E6VSH4H-209
S7MD 72 D.E FILTER PENTAIR S7MD72/38,500 GALLONS
Chlorinator – Salt Generator PENTAIR IC40 40K GALLONS
7Ft Spa raised 18 inch W/Tile face 2 H.P Travertine Tumbled 12x24 Coping / Blower Package W/ Extra
spillover W/ Separate Supermax 2-SPEED 1.6 H.P Spa Pump PENTAIR PHK2RA6YF-103L
140 BTU Electric Heater Pool & amp; Spa Largest unit PENTAIR Master Temp
45ft of Deco Drain 2”
Decking - French Pattern Tumbled Edge Travertine
Coping – 12x24 Tumbled edge Travertine Tumbled Edge
Maintenance Kit/Pole /Brush/Broom
Child Safety 5 Alarms
Screen Footer Per code
Initial Start-Up Service and Pool School
 

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Re: Build in Tampa - Pool, spa, lanai, outdoor kitchen, oy vey

How frustrating!!!

Signed the contract and went to permitting in January, 2018; 4 months later permitting was approved (massive delays in Hillsborough County). And now we've had 3 months of rain delays. So 7 months in we finally have excavation, rebar, shotcrete, and some of the waterline tile done. Equipment and plumbing are underway now.

I will post a boatload of pictures tomorrow once the rain settles. In the meanwhile I have a question. And I want to preface this question with the fact that I know nothing about pool equipment so please bear with me. When we selected the pool equipment it was important that we had enough pumps to run the 6 spa jet's full blast, get a strong waterfall effect over the spillover, and launch a multi-feet high water stream from both sun shelf bubblers (basically the water park effect). I also wanted to ensure we could control the spa jets independently of the bubblers. We currently have two Pentair IntelliPro VSF pumps sitting on the equipment slab (along with the heat pump, salt system, and filter). Do those two pumps satisfy our requirements? Initially I was thinking three pumps: 1 for the spa, 1 for the bubblers, and 1 to circulate the pool water. But candidly I have no idea how this should be configured/plumbed/pumped. I also spent an hour reading other posts at TFP but apparently my Google Fu is weak today. LOL. Appreciate the help!!!

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Re: Build in Tampa - Pool, spa, lanai, outdoor kitchen, oy vey

The pump that will be used for the spa will switch to a pool circulation / SWCG pump when spa is not in use. You should plan to have it switch to spa jets a few times per day to chlorinate the spa. But do not have the spillover on all the time or you will have pH issues.
 
Re: Build in Tampa - Pool, spa, lanai, outdoor kitchen, oy vey

So one pump dedicated to the bubblers...

And one pump that runs the spa OR the pool circulation/SWCG, but not both at the same time?

Is that enough to go BALLS out on the jets, spill over, and bubbler?

And I was reading somewhere here that a dedicated pump for the bubblers doesn't need to be variable. Did I misread that?
 
Re: Build in Tampa - Pool, spa, lanai, outdoor kitchen, oy vey

The jets in the spa create the spillover. So one of the pumps will handle that.

For more adjust ability a VS pump for the bubblers is needed. Or you can install a single speed and use a valve to increase back pressure to adjust them. Check with your builder.
 
Re: Build in Tampa - Pool, spa, lanai, outdoor kitchen, oy vey

Anyone need PVC piping? We have plenty LOL

Wanted a gut check on the plumbing work. The waste gate needs to be finished and vented perpendicular to the wall. The six sigma travesty PVC looping high into the air needs to be cut down and corrected. And then I have a random PVC pipe standing tall and proud for no darn reason. Hopefully this is for the salt system.

Anything else stick out as blatantly wrong and/or in need of attention?

30ThHtt.jpg

b02Ca8Z.jpg
 
Who said pipe needs to be cut down?

It’s a Hartford loop to keep spa from draining to pool. It’s accepted by several standards.

If it’s an eyesore, ask builder to sell you a check valve & relevant installation labor.
 
Who said pipe needs to be cut down?

It’s a Hartford loop to keep spa from draining to pool. It’s accepted by several standards.

If it’s an eyesore, ask builder to sell you a check valve & relevant installation labor.

And this is why TFP is such an incredible community/resource. :D

I had no idea what this was, just assumed it was a lazy mistake. Is a check valve a better solution than the Hartford loop? Is yes I"ll look into it.
 
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