Bought a house with a neglected pool - please help with my strange SWG

TheZman

Member
Jul 26, 2020
7
France
I just posed over in "Everything else" regarding a problem with the light and cover for this pool. I figured this question about the chlorine generator belonged in it's proper section of the forum.

The SWG
The pool is a salt pool with a "Steriphor cpm223" module that seems to control the electrolysis unit as well as an automatic acid injection module for PH adjustment to a target of 7.2ph. Strangely the unit doesn't even have the model number written on it - I only found it by trawling google images The only technical document I could find online is here Manual - PDF Format. Unfortunately the manual is in French but using google document translate (Google Translate) I can get the operation instructions in English.

What concerns me is that the instructions at section 2.1 states "The basin should be salted at 5 grams per liter, or 5 kg per m3". Is that not very high compared to normal salt pools? Everything I've read suggests that the typical salt target is around 3500 ppm, not 5000 ppm as this would be. I already purchased 275kg of salt before I found this manual, but I guess I'll be heading out to buy some more as it seems ~400kg is required for my ~76000 litre pool.

I actually bought a digital salt ppt tester yesterday so just ran a quick test to get a qualitative idea of the difference in saltiness levels. I dissolved some salt in a water glass to get 3.5 ppt (3500 ppm, or 3.5g/L I guess) and tasted that compared to another glass set to 5000 ppm. The taste difference was notable but certainly the water wasn't "horribly salty" at the higher level so I guess it will be okay in terms of actual usability. Still strange that my system requires this higher level. Any ideas why? Are there any benefits to having a higher ppm?

Section 3.4 and 3.5 of the manual also state "The recommended oxidant level should be between 0.3 and 1.0 ppm." and "NEVER EXCEED 2 ppm if metallic elements are in contact with the water." (I have a metallic motor for the automatic cover, and the cover slats themselves are metal so that applies to me). The 0.3-1.0 ppm range for free-chlorine (I assume?) also seem a bit lower than typically recommended for pools. Is this because the higher salt ppm level contributes to keeping everything clean?

The unit doesn't seem to have a readout for ppm, which I think is a bit strange. It's got a temperature probe and a PH testing probe, but no ppm probe or screen readout. If the 5000 ppm is so crucial, I'm surprised that the unit doesn't automatically give that as a readout. Is this because the salinity level in the water shouldn't really change very frequently (compared to ph and temperature), so they left that function down to manual inspection?

I'm still trying to find more technical specs for this unit. I just got the troublefreepool app so need to figure out the 24 hour SWG Chlorine Output, but quite predictably this model isn't listed in the app.

Images:
 
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: Sounds like you found yourself quite the product there with that SWG. I've not heard of it before. Still, SWG salt levels can vary a bit by manufacture, although I would agree 5,000 ppm seems a bit high. Hard ot know why. I suppose you could always just add enough salt of about 4,000 ppm and see if the SWG or module sends any low salt errors. typically, if the SWG is happy we're happy because it should mean it's producing chlorine. Being that it's an older unit, it's not surprising they are recommending such a low chlorine level since even today we are still waiting for many in the industry to recognize the FC/CYA relationship as seen on our FC/CYA Levels. For the pH, perhaps it's best you test on your own anyways, either with the digital meter or a simple drop-test with red reagent. Feel free to post aback and keep us updated on your progress. IF you have any other questions or concerns, just let us know. Have a good day.
 
Thanks for the reply. I really like the idea of starting at 4000 ppm and going from there. Yes I will definitely test the ph independently myself, especially since I already have a digital ph pen in my beer brewing equipment. I'll probably add the acid manually myself for the first little bit too, until I get that swg device all figured out.

I'm not sure I fully understand your final comment on CYA and FC levels. According to the chart you linked, I should shoot for a CYA of ~70 (I'll need to buy CYA at the pool store tomorrow), and a free chlorine level of 3-5 ppm. However, this goes against the manual of the Steriphor SWG device that said I should shoot for 0.3-1.0 ppm, and the explicit warning not to exceed 2.0 ppm. Which is right? I'm cautious about going against what the device manual says so currently leaning towards a goal of 1.0ppm, but I get the feeling that's not what you'd recommend. Should I maybe aim for 1.0 ppm and only raise higher (maybe towards 2.0 ppm) if I experience problems like algae or cloudiness?

You are correct on it being an older unit. From what I understand, the pool was installed around 2009-2010 so all equipment will be from that era.
 
The FC/CYA Levels is built to keep your pool clean and sanitary. If you run the low FC levels you mention, the pool will not be sanitary. And algae will invade it quickly.
 
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