We just put a Matrix up last weekend and I can tell you that there are no holes for bonding pre-drilled into the wall. You may want to check with Wilbar and see how drilling through your wall will affect warranty. I attached a bonding lug to one of the bolts for connecting the two ends of the wall, that then meets with a Burndy Waterbug for bonding the water, and finally that wire is attached to the bonding lug on the pump. As for connections coming loose, yes that is something that could happen. I've added it to my to-do lists for maintenance and all connections will be checked bi-weekly.Bama Rambler said:The pump should have a bonding lug on it and for bonding the water you can buy a water bond that either goes into the skimmer or is a stainless steel nipple with a bonding lug on it. Or you can make your own out of a stainless steel nipple. Just drill a hole in it and bolt a bonding lug to it.
danpik -- If you had looked up the Sharkline Matrix you'd see that it's an aboveground pool and is all resin except the wall. Even single piece pool walls should be bonded in four places in case one of the connections becomes disconnected.
Yeah, I know I could have. I didn't because 1, I was sitting in a boring meeting and doing a google search to find that out probably would have been more than I should have been doing and 2, It is a bit of a pet peeve of mine that I should have to research something to answer a question when that info could have easily been provided. I don't mind doing it sometimes and I understand how easily that it could be overlooked by the OP. No harm, No foulBama Rambler said:danpik -- If you had looked up the Sharkline Matrix you'd see that it's an aboveground pool and is all resin except the wall.
I suppose you could use that argument, and I have no objection to bonding with more than one point. But, then to carry it further the pump should have more than one point of attachment too. The reason 4 points of attachment are required for pools with metal structure (not just metal sides) is that there are a lot of connection points between the various parts that can all add up to resistance which could lead to voltage potential differences. If you look at how most above ground pools are bonded, the side steel is usually not even connected. The bottom track and the top track are usually isolated by the paint and the liner clip at the top. Any connection is tenuous at best.Bama Rambler said:Even single piece pool walls should be bonded in four places in case one of the connections becomes disconnected.
I agree. For some reason they don't seem to embrace the safety aspect of the instalation like they should. I suppose this is why I have to fix on average 10 pools/year in my area for dumb electrical and bonding instalationsbythecreek said:I really appreciate everyones input, it has helped a ton, you would think there would be more instructions on bonding from the pool company but there is none.
The only conductive parts to that installation that were exposed to the end user are the two bolts that hold the board to the fiberglass stand. Not enough mass to present any type of voltage potential dangerbuddywiser said: