Bond beam repair

NOT purrfect?? DUDE! This is better than some "pro" jobs I have seen done by PAID people that do it for a living!!!

Grout-are you going to try to match the coping or going for a contrast? I can see a medium gray to make the stone stand out.

Kim:kim:
 
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NOT purrfect?? DUDE! This is better than some "pro" jobs I have seen done by PAID people that do it for a living!!!

Grout-are you going to try to match the coping or going for a contrast? I can see a medium gray to make the stone stand out.

Kim:kim:

Thank you for those kind words. The guy doing my plaster did say he would hire me if I needed some work in my free time, haha.

My preliminary thoughts are to go with a white grout, just because I would think it looks cleaner. Maybe I will try to find some pictures of what others have done.
 
My preliminary thoughts are to go with a white grout, just because I would think it looks cleaner. Maybe I will try to find some pictures of what others have done.

White grout looks clean when new but will not stay clean. Either way you will end up with gray grout after a few years.
 
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Type S mortar is pretty white it's a very light grey. I can snap a pic in the morning if you wanna see a fresh job with quickcrete profinish mortar as grout

Coping looks great overall dont sweat it. I see a baby booboo on that small inside corner piece but I've seen pros do waaaaay worst. Looks great be proud of it. Precast curve coping is one of the hardest to install you always have to fudge it and trim/shave material
 
Type S mortar is pretty white it's a very light grey. I can snap a pic in the morning if you wanna see a fresh job with quickcrete profinish mortar as grout

Coping looks great overall dont sweat it. I see a baby booboo on that small inside corner piece but I've seen pros do waaaaay worst. Looks great be proud of it. Precast curve coping is one of the hardest to install you always have to fudge it and trim/shave material

Thank you. Please do snap a picture of your mortar lines.

When you say booboo do you mean the gap is a bit pie shaped? None of the coping is chipped except from mold imperfections when received. Could be some left over thin set that needs to be removed. Most of what I notice to have issues is in places where coping does not line up not quite perfectly.

I am pretty happy with what I was able to accomplish. This was the first time I have done anything pool related.
 

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@jimmythegreek @bdavis466

Doing the tile install tomorrow, or at least thats the plan. Anything I should know in particular that I may have overlooked or not thought of?

I have the bond beam where the tile will be applied waterproofed using Hydro Ban. I plan to use Latricrete 254 as the thinset, and planned to make it a bit thicker since my coping overhangs a bit. Should I use white or will the grey that I have be sufficient?

I was reading your tile article bdavis, and I want to ensure I am not wrong in my thinking. Is the "mortar bed" the bond beam behind the tile, or is it the Laticrete 254 built up and let dry, then waterproofed?
 
It can be either. If your repair is close you waterproof that and then apply tile. You can go pretty thick with 254 its rated at 3/4" inch on vertical I've done over an inch on coping with no issues. 254 is super strong stuff grey is fine white is always a bit stronger in any thinset. Its water rated that's what makes it what it is. I'm doing a stone veneer tomorrow with their hi-bond mvis thinset supposedly it's the stickiest they make. We shall see how it goes my first time with it
 
It can be either. If your repair is close you waterproof that and then apply tile. You can go pretty thick with 254 its rated at 3/4" inch on vertical I've done over an inch on coping with no issues. 254 is super strong stuff grey is fine white is always a bit stronger in any thinset. Its water rated that's what makes it what it is. I'm doing a stone veneer tomorrow with their hi-bond mvis thinset supposedly it's the stickiest they make. We shall see how it goes my first time with it

I was reading the specifications on the 254 again from Laticrete, and they say its for use underwater, so I would think that it's pretty water proof. When I was installing the coping, I would say I averaged 1/4" - 3/4" of 254 under the coping. Those things aren't coming off.

I will have to make it pretty dry for it to go 3/4" and stick to the wall. I am not sure if I should go that thick or else my plaster guy will complain about material use. I guess my thought on grey was that it may come through the space between the tiles and would cause more work if it needs to be wiped out.
 
I was planning to go a bit thick with the tile thinset because the coping is a bit longer than the coping that was originally there. I was just trying to make up some of the space under the front coping lip so that it doesn't stick out so far.

I will use a ledger board. I was thinking I would not need to use one, so I am glad you mentioned it.
 
Dont sweat the plaster guy he will fade it in wont be alot extra. Never set tile without a ledger they always slide you want the suction bond to stay in place. When tiles slide then get pushed back later they loose strength

Alright, I will use a ledger board. Is 1/4" plywood what I use for that? I had some landscaping edging that was great for flexibility, but I am not sure that it is thick enough for holding tile.
 

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