BIG Pool Issues

Jul 10, 2010
8
Greetings everyone,

New member and TF-100 owner. Having a very strange year to say the least pool-wise. Every year I open my 20,000 gallon pool and clean it out (porous safety cover), and take a sample to the pool store to be analyzed. Opening this year was harder than usual, having an algae skin on the bottom & walls that took much effort to scrape off. On 5/22 took my sample to the store and got my results of FC-10.0ppm, TC- >10ppm, CC- 0ppm, PH- <6.5, Hardness- 140 ppm, TA- 0ppm, CYA- 85 ppm, no copper or iron, phosphate- 1000. They gave me 39# of Alka to add, plus 16 # Cal the next day. Took a sample again on 6/5, and got FC- >10ppm, TC- >10ppm, CC-0, PH- 6.7, Hardness- 150 ppm, TA- 100 ppm, CYA- 80 ppm, Copper- .28 ppm, no iron, Phosphate- 1000. They said add 9# Alka & 10# Cal. Also after the 1st visit after adding the chems I started getting yellow staining on the plastics and liner in the pool. I added their Pool Stain Treat stuff (Oxalic Acid) a few times, and it still didn't go away. I read about the Ascorbic Acid on here and found a pool place that carried it, and needed 4# and 24 hrs to clean it up pretty well(Funny, nothing on the bottle saying it contained Ascorbic Acid, but once put on the stain it went away like magic!). I added 1lb bag of Shock (Pool Brand from Sams) 2 days ago when I noticed some algae starting. Whe have had temps in the 90's for about a week. Cleaning the pool today, I notice the stain starting a comeback. I made a mental note to buy more acid, but took out the TF-100 and did some tests. Results- FC- 19, CC- 1, TC- 20, PH- 6.8, TA- 180. I use Tri-Clor 3" tabs from Sams in an in-line chlorinator usually set on #2, and run the filter 8-12 hrs daily. Also use Algaecide 40 (Alkyl) from Sams, too. Was looking around at Target & Walmart for Poly 60, but the brands they carry use Alkyl. My water is clear, but with the staining coming back, and the chem readings I got today, I feel I'm close to a disaster! HELP!!

Thanks, Bob

PS- Also get maple & black walnut leaves in the pool if that has any bearing......
 
The pool store is giving you bad advice... all that alk increaser and your TA is too high now, but your PH is still too low. I suspect though if you get the PH in range the stains will worsen.

If your CC is 1 you need to shock, which will prob make the stains worse. We recommend shocking with liquid chlorine or bleach, because they don't add any unwanted additives like granular shock products add. What was the active ingredient in the Pool Brand at Sam's shock you added?

You won't find Poly 60 at Walmart or Target - check Ace or pool stores, or order online. Routine use of algaecide is unnecessary however, if you maintain proper FC levels according to the CYA chart.

Is it your plan to chlorinate only with tablets? If so, then you need to replace water to get the CYA to 30 or so (if those pool store readings are accurate.) As Richard noted, have you done your own CYA test?
 
Active ingredient of Pool Brand shock is 99% Sodium Dichloro-S-Triazinetrione Hydrated. Available Chlorine- 55.5% The 3" tablets have the same ingredient execpt the Available Chlorine is 90%.
 
first, bring your ph up..
2nd stop using chemicals from discount stores... seriously.. you get what you pay for
If your going to use the auto feeder, which is fine, get your self tri-chlor tablets. ( 99%)
To shock the pool id switch to liquid.. 6% bleach or 12% sold at most pools stores.

as far as the poly 60 algaecide, its a very good choice. The algacides sold at wallyworld, sams, ect arent very good. Its very strange but some of the pools i maintain weekly need a few oz of poly 60 each week or algae will be growing, and some pools i havent added any algaecide yet this season and have no issues with algae. If you arent able to keep an eye on your fc and cc levels a few times a week, then adding some poly 60 each week is a good "backup" to help prevent a problem with algae.
 
Hi, Bob,

Welcome to the forum. :lol: To get this pool in shape, you will have to stop using pucks...at least for a good while. You will also have to drain some water to reduce your CYA which is currently unmanageable. Your pool is classicly over-stabilized (too many pucks) and you'll have to change some methods but we can get it crystal clear for you.

If you are willing to take those two steps, post back and let us know and we'll get you started.

Heckpools,
If your going to use the auto feeder, which is fine, get your self tri-chlor tablets. ( 99%)
No, it is not fine. His CYA is probably like 200ppm. Regardless of the brand name, he's using Tri-chlor pucks and they are the source of his excessive CYA. You are not helping him by telling him it is OKay to add more CYA to his pool.
 
Wow! That was quick.

OK. First thing is to talk about draining, then. DO NOT drain your entire pool. YOu should do this in a series of drain/refills and never drain more than about 1/3 at once. Make Sense?

Next post back and tell us a little about your pool. (sorry if I've overlooked any of this in your first post) What type filter do you have...sand? cartridge? Are you pretty comfortable saying the pool is 20,000 gallons? Tell us what state and city you live in.....it makes a difference.

You will not need algaecide or much else from the pool store.....Prepare a list of the things you can't return and a list of those you can. We'll help save you some money. (Keep the pucks.....you'll get some use later.)

Tell us the current condition of the pool water. Clear? murky? Any algae on the sides? How about the yellow stains....still there? Also tell us what source you will use to refill your pool....well water or city water.
 
Actually doing about 2 in at a time- Doing refill right now. I have a 16 x 32 with a diving area, according to the pool co. 20,000 gallons. DE filter, 1 hp pump, inline chloronator. Water is very clear, traces of green algae showing up in liner seams, plastic parts (Steps, skimmer, bottom return & light housing) starting to turn yellow, and pool liner getting gray. Both plastic & liner conditions clear up when asorbic acid is used. I live in Pittston, PA, and water used is city.
 

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Well, I think we can help you get a handle on this. You don't want to drain more than 1/3 at time because of your liner. If you can live with the staining for the rest of the summer, I'd just ignore the staining until the CYA/FC issues have stabilized and you have a better understanding of the ABCs of pool water chemistry. Then when the temps have dropped and you are less likely to experience a bloom, you can do an AA treatment to rid the pool of the stains. This will require future maintenance doses of metal sequesterants to prevent the stains from returning. The AA treatment requires your chlorine to be virtually nil, which is why I suggest waiting till the end of the season when temps have cooled, and your chlorine demand is less, folks won't be swimming, KWIM?
 
Hey, Bob,

I really like FPM's idea of holding off on the staining for now...Let's get your pool manageable first. I would like for you to drain a little more than 2" each time. You pool's average depth is close to 5'...60". So, to drain 1/2 of your pool (which is about the least you'll need to do) 2" at a time would take #) drain/refill cycles.

I would like to see you do 6-12" cycles each time and that way we can have your CYA down enough to test it in about 4-5 days at the most. Don't bother testing it until one of us suggests it...it'll be a waste of your chemistry.

While you are contemplating/doing that, Have you seen the pool calculator yet? If so, we're gonna' get you to calculate how to bring up your pH which needs to be done while your draining refilling. Post back and let us know if you'd like help calculating and raising your pH.
 
FPM & Dave,
So far I've drained out 6" & added 10". I didn't do anything today- I'm scrambling around packing for a trip to TX this week. From my readings yesterday, My FC was 19, CC was 1, TA was 180 and CYA over 100. My inline chloronator is shut off, and temps look to be in the 90's all week. What can I do to keep it stablized until I'm back next weekend? I really won't have much help to do any pool stuff other than skimming the leaves and emptying the skimmer basket ;-)

Bob
 
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