Best option for plumbing

cannelg

Active member
Jul 28, 2016
39
0
Wesley Chapel
#1
Hi all,

I have two options for replumbing for my Pump. I can either cut off the plumbing coming out of the Jandy valve and put a 2.5” coupling with a 2” bushing on - or - I can cut it off in the same spot and put a pipe extender fitting in the pipe. Which is better for flow or does it matter?

thanks,
greg
 

bproosow

Bronze Supporter
Apr 8, 2014
41
0
Auburn, CA
#2
A picture would definitely be helpful here. I would suspect it won't matter much, so long as you don't go smaller in size than what was originally built. Typical Jandy valves would take either a 1.5" or 2" pipe (1.5 goes inside the fitting; 2 goes on the outside). Does your pipe currently go inside the fitting?
 

cannelg

Active member
Jul 28, 2016
39
0
Wesley Chapel
#3
I'll attach some pics. When I was researching a while back someone suggested using a 2.5" coupling over the Jandy Valve with a reducer bushing. SOmeone else recently suggested using a pipe extender inside the pipe. Either way I have to cut it off right at the valve. I am not sure which is the best options:

coupling.jpg pump suction.jpg

If I go with the option of gluing the coupling over the valve - can I use regular PVC glue?

Thanks.
 

cannelg

Active member
Jul 28, 2016
39
0
Wesley Chapel
#5
Thanks. I have purple primer but I need to get some glue for the project. Any particular brand/strength better than another considering I have to use it on the valve and need to buy some anyway?
 

bproosow

Bronze Supporter
Apr 8, 2014
41
0
Auburn, CA
#6
I agree, to avoid replacing the valve your best bet is to cut the pipe flush with the outlet of the valve and use the outer part of the fitting. I've only seen these with 1.5 inside/2 inch outside, but I suppose it could be bigger. I would suspect that it's 2 inch though.

Since you're replumbing your pump, you should definitely take the opportunity to replace those fixed couplers with threaded unions. You would put one on the inlet, another on the outlet. That way you'll be able to easily remove your pump for servicing in the future.
 

cannelg

Active member
Jul 28, 2016
39
0
Wesley Chapel
#8
Need to replace the pump. It is dying. Bought a Super II with unions off Amazon and it should come tomorrow along with some pvc fittings including the 2.5” coupling and reducer bushing. I have Oatey purple primer at home but I need to figure out which pvc cement to get. Jandy recommends CVPC gray weld-on but if PVC glue will work I can just use that. I have regular oatey pvc cement that comes in the 2-pack you get a Home Depot but is that strong enough for this? Or should I just get some oatey gray cement for CVPC and use it on everything? I assume you can use CVPC cement on normal pvc, but not the other way around? I dunno. - maybe over thinking it. I have red that the red can “all purpose” isn’t good for pressurized lines but not sure that is true. I have used the blue can “rain or shine” and that has worked in the past. What would be best in my situation where I have to use it on the Jandy valve and also replumb normal pvc as well?
 

bproosow

Bronze Supporter
Apr 8, 2014
41
0
Auburn, CA
#10
Probably not the best pool-specific product, but I've always used Red Hot Blue Glue. It tends to be a little messy, but I've NEVER had a leak with it. It does set very quickly, which can be good and bad. :) Pretty much ready for pool-level pressure as soon as you can no longer move the joints (which is only a few seconds tops).
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 3, 2011
12,647
1
#11
While you can often pressurize within 20 minutes, giving a few hours is always going to give a better, more secure joint.
 

jimmythegreek

Bronze Supporter
Aug 10, 2017
396
0
Succasunna, NJ
#13
rain or shine glue is great all around just let the glue set as the valve is ABS give it at least 24hrs. Noticed in the pic there are 3 coulings coming out of the pump as said earlier maybe time for threaded unions if you can slide pump back a bit and make it work
 

kadavis

In The Industry
TFP Guide
Apr 5, 2015
1,425
0
tucson, arizona
#14
Before you glue anything try dry fitting first, it looks like the pump that is there is up against wall. If the new pump is longer and the fittings push the pump back further you might get in trouble
 

cannelg

Active member
Jul 28, 2016
39
0
Wesley Chapel
#16
It’s in and everything seems to work. I used regular pvc glue with purple primer - the 2 pack you can get at HD for about $10. The Jandy Valve is pvc. I called Jandy and they said the majority sold are pvc valves. I called the original pool builder and he confirmed it was pvc. I glued the coupling to the valve early on in the install. There is not a lot of room to work but I got it wired and had to make a few trips to the store for more fittings as I had to replumb the section going to the filter as well. After that I finished the plumbing and waited about 30 minutes. Probably should have waited longer but I was impatient! it works and isn’t leaking. Thanks for the help all! 6FFFAD35-F710-40F2-9B61-A8A114AC547C.jpg
 

cannelg

Active member
Jul 28, 2016
39
0
Wesley Chapel
#18
Thanks! So after a week there are no leaks and everything is running fine. It dawned on me though - I didn’t put any lube on the unions at all - not the o-rings on the part that screws into the pump nor the gasket beeedn both sides where the unions screw together. There are no leaks at all but should I have? More importantly, should I take apart and do now? I feel like since it is working I should leave it alone but...long term effects?
 
May 10, 2017
1,726
0
Hays, Kansas
#19
If you are going to pull apart to winterize, just do it when you re open the pool.

If you don't pull apart to winterize, then do it sometime this year as the lube will be a anti seize for when you have problems