Baquacil conversion

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pgatherum

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Jun 8, 2017
32
Concord NH
Have used Baquacil CDX system x3 years when my AG pool was newly installed. When cover removed this spring, water level much lower than when closed and very cloudy. Looked like watered down skim milk. Could not see the bottom. I raised water level with hose from my city water source, started filter, brushed, added I gallon Oxidizer and one bottle of CDX ( which I think was an error). I told the pool store and they said not too worry. Based on their chemical testing I bought and added Calcium and total alkalinity powder. I waited 2 weeks and no improvement in cloudiness. Not worse though. I have always felt the cloudiness was due to chemical imbalance as there is no organic matter or green matter in the pool. Having read about Baquacil's reputation for being clear first few years then developing problems I decided to switch to chlorine based products. I purchased TFTestkit 100 which arrived yesterday. ph was 8.2 and I added 24ozs muriatic acid and 1 hour later ph down to 7.6 & added 8ozs muriatic acid. This morning ph 7.5, but fortunately TA down to 140 and I added 6ozs acid. I am hoping ph down to your recommended 7.2-7.4 level and I want to start adding the chlorine. One big question...when I tested CH, after adding the 10 drops, the water never turned red, just a very pretty lilac purple, so it was hard to tell when it changed to blue after the third solution added ( sorry, don't have the reagent numbers in front of me). I tested last evening and again this morning and still didn't turn red. What does this mean?
I look forward to using this forum to help me have a successful conversion. So far I am feeling more confident and not as intimidated by the test kit as I thought I would be.
Thank you
 
from: https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/24188-Extended-Test-Kit-Directions


  1. Rinse the sample tube with pool water.
  2. Fill the sample tube with pool water to the 10 ml mark. The top of the sample will be curved. This curve is called a meniscus. The bottom of the meniscus should be level with the 10 ml mark.
  3. Add 10 drops of R-0010 and swirl to mix.
  4. Add 3 drops of R-0011L and swirl to mix. The solution should turn red, pink, or blue. If the sample turns blue, you are done and your CH level is zero.
  5. Counting the number of drops as you go, add R-0012 one drop at a time, swirling to mix after each drop.
    • Continue adding drops until the color changes to something more or less blue. If the sample turns purple see the note on "fading endpoint" below.
    • Continue adding drops as long as the color continues changing. The final drop, that does not change the color any further, does not count.
    • If the sample starts to turn blue and then goes back to red/pink and stays there from several more drops this is also a "fading endpoint", see the note below.
  6. Multiply the number of drops by 25 to get your CH level. Remember that the final drop, which didn't cause any further color change, doesn't count.
  7. Dispose of the sample safely. It is best to pour it down the drain with the water running. Do not add it back to the pool.
  8. Rinse the sample tube with tap water and store for next time.
 
pgatherum said:
Have used Baquacil CDX system x3 years when my AG pool was newly installed. When cover removed this spring, water level much lower than when closed and very cloudy. Looked like watered down skim milk. Could not see the bottom. I raised water level with hose from my city water source, started filter, brushed, added I gallon Oxidizer and one bottle of CDX ( which I think was an error). I told the pool store and they said not too worry. Based on their chemical testing I bought and added Calcium and total alkalinity powder. I waited 2 weeks and no improvement in cloudiness. Not worse though. I have always felt the cloudiness was due to chemical imbalance as there is no organic matter or green matter in the pool. Having read about Baquacil's reputation for being clear first few years then developing problems I decided to switch to chlorine based products. I purchased TFTestkit 100 which arrived yesterday. ph was 8.2 and I added 24ozs muriatic acid and 1 hour later ph down to 7.6 & added 8ozs muriatic acid. This morning ph 7.5, but fortunately TA down to 140 and I added 6ozs acid. I am hoping ph down to your recommended 7.2-7.4 level and I want to start adding the chlorine. One big question...when I tested CH, after adding the 10 drops, the water never turned red, just a very pretty lilac purple, so it was hard to tell when it changed to blue after the third solution added ( sorry, don't have the reagent numbers in front of me). I tested last evening and again this morning and still didn't turn red. What does this mean?
I look forward to using this forum to help me have a successful conversion. So far I am feeling more confident and not as intimidated by the test kit as I thought I would be.
Thank you
Click to expand...


Have you read this page about 15 times and printed it out? Pool School - Convert Your Baqua Pool to Chlorine
 
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: We see several Baqua conversions each year, and rightfully so. But there's a new twist that effects the conversion process as outlined on the TFP Pool School - Convert Your Baqua Pool to Chlorine page, and that's the CDX. The increased levels of CDX seems to have a significant impact on the conversion, limiting the positive effects of the bleach to breakdown the Baqua to help everything oxidize. For some pools, the best option is to drain and exchange a healthy amount of water to eliminate a good amount of the Baqua/CDX which allows the bleach conversion process to work more efficiently. So we want to be clear and upfront before you start adding bleach and following the Pool School - Convert Your Baqua Pool to Chlorine instructions only to find out you can't seem to maintain the required FC of 15, or can never seem to pass the overnight (OCLT) test.

As for the CH test, the shade is not as important as the color change itself. When I test, it's a very light purple before turning a very light blue. Took me a while to get the hang of it, but my speedstir helps. At this point, I would give some thought to a partial water exchange before adding chemicals which may be wasted. If you decide to jump right into the conversion "as-is" and as the days go on you don't see the progress expected as noted on the conversion instructions, you definitely know the CDX is impeding your progress. Hope that helps. Let us know if you have anymore questions.
 
Also, there are a couple of folks that are doing the conversion or have completed one this season. It would be a good idea to read through those and jot down any questions you have.

Guess I should have hit submit a little sooner :)
 
Texas Splash said:
Hello and welcome to TFP! :wave: We see several Baqua conversions each year, and rightfully so. But there's a new twist that effects the conversion process as outlined on the TFP Pool School - Convert Your Baqua Pool to Chlorine page, and that's the CDX. The increased levels of CDX seems to have a significant impact on the conversion, limiting the positive effects of the bleach to breakdown the Baqua to help everything oxidize. For some pools, the best option is to drain and exchange a healthy amount of water to eliminate a good amount of the Baqua/CDX which allows the bleach conversion process to work more efficiently. So we want to be clear and upfront before you start adding bleach and following the Pool School - Convert Your Baqua Pool to Chlorine instructions only to find out you can't seem to maintain the required FC of 15, or can never seem to pass the overnight (OCLT) test.

As for the CH test, the shade is not as important as the color change itself. When I test, it's a very light purple before turning a very light blue. Took me a while to get the hang of it, but my speedstir helps. At this point, I would give some thought to a partial water exchange before adding chemicals which may be wasted. If you decide to jump right into the conversion "as-is" and as the days go on you don't see the progress expected as noted on the conversion instructions, you definitely know the CDX is impeding your progress. Hope that helps. Let us know if you have anymore questions.
Click to expand...

Currently pumping pool as I write. How far down should I drain pool? I now see why draining is my best option after reading some of the other posts. I just hope it doesn't get to hot and sunny as I refill the pool and try to limit liner's exposure. Should I wash exposed liner? Also I have 2 bricks inside the bottle of my ladder which anchor it. Will that have any effect on eventual conversion to chlorine?
Thank you again for help so far. I appreciate knowing where to ask questions and get accurate & appropriate responses.
 
I'm not familiar with AG pool liners. However, I would avoid a complete drain as the liner may significantly shrink when it dries. I drained the shallow end of my IG pool and the bottom corners of the liner shrank to the point that I thought it was ruined. Instead of clearly defined 90 degree corners, the corners shrank into an arc about 4-5 inches from the wall. Luckily, pouring boiling water on it and holding it down with many unopened 40-pound bags of pool salt held it in place while I refilled. It was a close call for sure.
 
Currently pumping pool as I write. How far down should I drain pool? I
Click to expand...
Yeah, I wouldn't go any lower than about 18-24" either. The last thing you need is a liner or wall collapsing scenario. I would remove the ladder completely if possible and clean it thoroughly. Just leave it out of the pool during this process. If you have a light that is removable, I would do that as well. Refill as soon as possible and then follow the conversion web page to the letter. No shortcuts on the FC of 15 or duration. Each part of those instructions is geared for optimum results. Good luck to you! Don't forget to take lots of pics to catalog your progress.
 

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pgatherum, I used CDX for the three years we used Baqucil. We started with half water refill. The conversion went pretty close to the 2-3 days of really nasty water with yellow specks floating and the pool water just ugly, but after 2-3 days of every 1.5 or 2 hours (9am to 9pm) testing and adding Chlorine to FC15, we saw a huge bloom in the center and crystal clear water. Had filter running on filter the entire time. Used the vacuum hose to suck up the nastiness that settled. We changed our sand prior to this conversion because we were not quite sure we wanted to do it, but then had to change it again after passing the overnight test. When I cleaned the sand yesterday it was actually pretty clean. Eventually when you put in the chlorine you will not see a cloud forming!

Take a look at my forum ... Patti - Newbie conversion to chlorine (something like that!).

Good luck...I'll keep an eye on your posts to see if I can add anything.
 
Refilled pool, (after leaving 22" of water) though I could see the bottom. Treated 8.2ph which dropped to 7.2, TA 70, so took the big step of adding the first chlorine dose of 178 oz 10% liq. pool chlorine. You are all correct. Turned green and cloudy..... Tested 1.5 hour later FC 1.2 so added another 1.3 gal, again turned green and seems more cloudy. I just need reassurance that hopefully the cloudiness dissipates as did the green color. Cloudiness is the reason I am making the conversion and right now the pool looks worse than before I drained it. Is this normal?
 
Yes, the battle is on now! Be prepared and stocked with plenty to bleach to maintain "15". That's the target number for now as outlined in the conversion page. The green and cloudiness may continue for a few days until the baqua is broken-down, but with the correct amount of bleach, it will work. Remember, with summer approaching, no CYA in the water, and lots of goo, the FC will drop fast. Even more reason to watch it closely and bump it back up. Hang in there!
 
Thank you, I appreciate the reassurance. Evening now, so no direct sun on pool, 3rd dose of chlorine in and really, really green, but I now know that I am only adding Chlorine which will dissipate, unlike when adding all that Baquacil Algistat, oxidizer and CDX previously. I am cautiously optimistic. Thanks to the help of TFP!
 
After 4 doses of chlorine yesterday, went to bed with very green, cloudy water and was greatly shocked and happy to see it so much clearer this morning. FC 2, CC 2 so put in appropriate bleach dose, and left for work. Will test again early evening, after buying more bleach. I think I am getting close to midway of conversion... I am a little intimidated about changing sand in filter, is there a tutorial on this site that shows how? Thanks again for all the help and support. You all truly know your facts and present with clear & concise directions.
 
Water looking almost crystal clear, pump pressure staying steady. Looks like I may be halfway. This morning FC 7, CC 3 so added bleach per pool math. Have been backwashing each morning so needing to bring water level back up. Will this have a great effect on ph, should I test? Getting mustard colored very sticky goo along inner skimmer which I use a Mr. Clean eraser as the best way to clean. Is this still Baquacil goo??? Should I continue to run filter 24 hr/day or after adding bleach and running a while can I turn pump off? Would it help maintain the FC level??
Thanks again for all your help. Having used TFP's instructions and been on my conversion journey, I now realize why changing the sand in filter is required. The stuff in the skimmer was so sticky. Hope to get to that point soon.
 
Progress is good, even if only a little. Remember you've only been at this for about 3 days or so. You also have to budget time for work and other things, so maintaining the FC can be a challenge. Just do the best you can. Yes, when the FC is under 10 you can validate the pH. Definitely scrub/brush all pool surfaces and accessories as much as possible to keep the Baqua goo broken-up and dispersed. You will also need to keep the pump running 24/7.

Remember the CDX was a concern, so it could be inhibiting the conversion process, but definitely do your best to maintain the FC of 15 at all times. The water needs that elevated chlorine level to break-down the goo.
 

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