Balancing Help Please

lildragon

New member
May 12, 2022
3
Tracy
Pool Size
14000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
5D222967-F6B4-4D74-8B5E-F70CBF830F43.jpegOur PB has been testing/managing our new plaster SWG pool. We tested our water chemistry and the pH, TA, CYA, and FC are all abnormal (see image of results). We have never added our own chemicals and need guidance please. Using the Taylor test kit and pool math app it recommends the following (depending on product used): add 73 oz of 6% bleach, add 25 oz of 29% muriatic acid then aerate, and add 73 oz of liquid stabilizer. Do we add these in a specific order? Add back to back or wait some time between chemicals? Test in between addition of chemicals? Make sure to add when filter is on or off? Anything else we should know? We are new to all of this. We are starting a pool service, but they aren’t starting for another week. Thanks in advance!
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Assuming the water is still crystal clear, definitely do the following:
1 - Add liquid chlorine for a goal of about 5-6 ppm. Pour slowly near the return jets.
2 - Add enough muriatic acid to lower the pH to about 7.6. Wait about 5 minutes and add the acid near the return jets.

Before we too much further, let's be sure the water is crystal clear. If so, then also increase the CYA to 70 ppm. At that point, you can adjust the SWG output and/or pump run time to maintain the proper FC level noted on the FC/CYA Levels. The TA is a bit elevated, but let's look at those after you are sure the other 3 items above are all good.

If your water has already become dull and not crystal clear, let s know.

As for the pool service, we urge you to reconsider. You're already doing what you need to by testing your own water and adding the proper chemicals. Why pay someone to do it for you who will not follow the ideal protocol? Weekly "dump & runs" are not ideal I can assure you. Something to consider anyway.

Pool Care Basics
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Assuming the water is still crystal clear, definitely do the following:
1 - Add liquid chlorine for a goal of about 5-6 ppm. Pour slowly near the return jets.
2 - Add enough muriatic acid to lower the pH to about 7.6. Wait about 5 minutes and add the acid near the return jets.

Before we too much further, let's be sure the water is crystal clear. If so, then also increase the CYA to 70 ppm. At that point, you can adjust the SWG output and/or pump run time to maintain the proper FC level noted on the FC/CYA Levels. The TA is a bit elevated, but let's look at those after you are sure the other 3 items above are all good.

If your water has already become dull and not crystal clear, let s know.

As for the pool service, we urge you to reconsider. You're already doing what you need to by testing your own water and adding the proper chemicals. Why pay someone to do it for you who will not follow the ideal protocol? Weekly "dump & runs" are not ideal I can assure you. Something to consider anyway.

Pool Care Basics
Thank you! Yes, the water is clear
 
water is clear
That's good. Then you can add enough stabilizer (or conditioner) to increase the CYA to at lest 60 for now. You might even take it up to 70 in the heat of summer to help protect the FC generated by the SWG. I'm assuming your SWG is on now? If not, remember that salt must be added and mix for at least 24 hrs before turning on the SWG. The important thing to remember is to always keep a gallon or two of liquid chlorine around in case you find the FC level falls below 2-3 ppm. Always reference the FC/CYA Levels to avoid algae. Add liquid chlorine for a quick increase as required until you get the SWG and pump run times dialed-in.
 
That's good. Then you can add enough stabilizer (or conditioner) to increase the CYA to at lest 60 for now. You might even take it up to 70 in the heat of summer to help protect the FC generated by the SWG. I'm assuming your SWG is on now? If not, remember that salt must be added and mix for at least 24 hrs before turning on the SWG. The important thing to remember is to always keep a gallon or two of liquid chlorine around in case you find the FC level falls below 2-3 ppm. Always reference the FC/CYA Levels to avoid algae. Add liquid chlorine for a quick increase as required until you get the SWG and pump run times dialed-in.
Thanks! Appreciate your help!
 
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