AutoPilot Pool Pilot Digital Nano - Cell Volts/Amps


Oct 29, 2011
I have a AutoPilot Pool Pilot Digital Nano and want to make sure it's working as it should. I've read the manual and the cell details for volts and amps - and understand the basics. The Nano was installed about 7 years ago, and I had the main unit replaced 2 years ago due to a faulty display. I have just replaced the cell with an "AutoPilot Pool Pilot PPC1/RC35/22/Super Cell SC-36", primarily because the old one was 7 years old, and though I clean the cell regularly I have not been getting the chlorine output I once had. The system check light is off (no faults). I also reset the Cell via the installer menu. Pool is 12,500 gallon, salt is at 3500ppm and other chemistry is good.

With the water at 82 degrees (f) the old cell was at 14v and 3.0 amps on normal Nano settings. The new cell is now also at 14v and 3.1 amps. Setting to boost, it still reads 14v and 3.1 amps. Aside from the basic settings set via the installer menu, there have been no changes to 'programming' since new. The cable appears good - no burn spots or contact corrosion. I did give the contacts on the connector at the cell end a shot of De-Oxit just to be sure. I also double checked that the Nano was wired for 120vac.

From the charts below, it looks like I should be at anywhere from 16 to 21 volts? Any thoughts?




Oct 29, 2011
Yes - I should clarify that I only cleaned when I saw build-up on the plates. I've cleaned 3? times since new.


TFP Expert
Apr 15, 2007
Ft Lauderdale, Florida
what's your water test look like?
Free Chlorine
Total Chlorine
Total Alkalinity
Calcium Hardness
Cyanuric Acid

Water chemistry can change over time, which can affect the amount of chlorine demand you have.
Seeing that the amps and volts have not changed, you should be generating the same amount of chlorine to your pool as when original. The higher voltage range is running at 5 amps. You're at 3 amps, so the 14 volts is fine.


Oct 29, 2011
Weather in the 90's here in upstate NY. Using a LaMotte ColorQ tester. I'm running the pump at 3000 RPM for 6 hours during the day, then for 4 hours at 1800 RPM in the evening.

7/2/18 AM Reading:
FCL: .84
TCL: 1.50
PH: 7.4
ALY: 104
CH: 105
CYA: 77

7/4/18 AM reading (two bags of shock the day before):
FCL: 2.52
TCL: 3.24
PH: 7.4
ALY: 116
CH: 115
CYA: 95

Calcium hardness is low. Water looks great.


Oct 29, 2011
I think the issue is resolved. Get this - my replacement control board was at a factory default of 3 amps max. Ran for two seasons like this! Went to hidden 'Factory' menu which you enable at power up, and a new menu item "Factory" shows up in the menu list.

- Remove power
- Apply power
- Quickly push up arrow, then down arrow then 'Select' button
- The display will flash 'Factory', then go back to normal status
- Press menu and scroll to new 'Factory' menu item
- Scroll through settings to find 'Cell Power' menu
- Mine was set at 3 Amps. I selected 5 amps.
- Exit out of menus
- Recycle power one more time

I am now at 17volts and 5 amps!