Just noticed that my Aquarite is not working. No power light showing. Check to see if it was getting power and it is. Around 4 years old or so and was wondering if anyone has some suggestions.
AquaRite Problems
- Thread starter kpromero
- Start date
kpromero said:
Could the panel (board) be bad? The lights no worky? Like if you unscrew all the screws & look at the electrical...that is the board I am referring to.
We had to replace ours 2 yrs ago ($275 or so). We called the PB & they came out & tested & replaced for us.
The panel lasted 5 years. The salt cell lasted 7 yrs.
Of course, the first thing to check is the fuse. It should be in a holder at the bottom of the control box, accessible from the outside. The fuse holder that they used in my box was not a high quality type, and was eventually damaged by corrosion. I replaced it with an internal automotive type fuse holder that sits inside the box.
I had my control box fail last year but was able to fix it very inexpensively. I'd be happy to share what was wrong, but proceed at your own risk. If you have some (or know someone who has) experience soldering and working with electricity then you should be fine.
Keep in mind that it could be any one of a hundred different things causing the failure. This just happens to be what was wrong with mine.
If you take the front cover off the unit (turn it off first) you will see the main circuit board. On the board is a component that looks like a black disk, about 1" across. It is mounted vertically by two wires. Have a close look at it. If it looks cracked and burned it is likely your problem.
This component is a "inrush current limiter". When it is cold, its resistance is fairly high. When power turns on it allows a small amount of current in. This small current causes it to heat up, which then lowers the resistance, allowing more current in. This continues until the resistance is near zero. This happens fairly quickly, maybe over 10 seconds or so, but it prevents large initial currents from damaging the cell.
If this is the problem, you can order the part from Digikey (www.digikey.com). It is only a few dollars. Replace it and you are back in business. If you need help or more details, please let me know. I don't know much about pools but I am pretty good at fixing electronics :-D
Good luck
Mike M.
I had my control box fail last year but was able to fix it very inexpensively. I'd be happy to share what was wrong, but proceed at your own risk. If you have some (or know someone who has) experience soldering and working with electricity then you should be fine.
Keep in mind that it could be any one of a hundred different things causing the failure. This just happens to be what was wrong with mine.
If you take the front cover off the unit (turn it off first) you will see the main circuit board. On the board is a component that looks like a black disk, about 1" across. It is mounted vertically by two wires. Have a close look at it. If it looks cracked and burned it is likely your problem.
This component is a "inrush current limiter". When it is cold, its resistance is fairly high. When power turns on it allows a small amount of current in. This small current causes it to heat up, which then lowers the resistance, allowing more current in. This continues until the resistance is near zero. This happens fairly quickly, maybe over 10 seconds or so, but it prevents large initial currents from damaging the cell.
If this is the problem, you can order the part from Digikey (www.digikey.com). It is only a few dollars. Replace it and you are back in business. If you need help or more details, please let me know. I don't know much about pools but I am pretty good at fixing electronics :-D
Good luck
Mike M.
Thanks all for replies. Had a better look at it this morning and it looks like the inrush current limiter is cracked as you suggested Mikemo. Wonder if a local store carries these like Radio Shack or something. Will try to replace and report back on if it worked or not. Hope it does or i will be purchasing a new one.
kpromero,
That's good news. It's a very easy fix. Here's the link to the part you need:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 70-1062-ND
Keep in mind that there are a lot of different versions of the SL32. Assuming you have the same system I do you need the one in the link (SL32-2R025). You should be able to read the old number off the burnt part. That part number means the resistance starts at 2 ohms and drop to 0.025 ohms when hot.
$2.64 each. You'll pay more for shipping than you will for the part. I bought two, so I could have one for a spare. Just be careful working on the board not to damage the other components. Mine's been working for over a year with the new part. WAY cheaper than a new system.
Good luck
Mike M.
That's good news. It's a very easy fix. Here's the link to the part you need:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 70-1062-ND
Keep in mind that there are a lot of different versions of the SL32. Assuming you have the same system I do you need the one in the link (SL32-2R025). You should be able to read the old number off the burnt part. That part number means the resistance starts at 2 ohms and drop to 0.025 ohms when hot.
$2.64 each. You'll pay more for shipping than you will for the part. I bought two, so I could have one for a spare. Just be careful working on the board not to damage the other components. Mine's been working for over a year with the new part. WAY cheaper than a new system.
Good luck
Mike M.
Changed out the current limiter and seems like all is good again. At least the power light came back on and shows it is working, but will test water tomorrow to make sure. Thanks all again for the info.
You probably already know this but another way to tell if chlorine is being generated is there are bubbles coming out of the returns.
Excellent. I'm glad you were able to get that fixed. I was happy when a $2 part fixed a $400 controller!
I too have a similar problem (same board though) Mine had a small red capacitor (left middle right above the 220V connections) split and charred (SEE PICS). Questions:
1. can a replacement be soldered on?
2. Any idea what part number this would be?
I have had my aquarite for 8 years and this will be the third board. They mailed me a replacement board after the first fried. Now they are hayward and say its out of warranty. So any help you can provide would be appreciated.
1. can a replacement be soldered on?
2. Any idea what part number this would be?
I have had my aquarite for 8 years and this will be the third board. They mailed me a replacement board after the first fried. Now they are hayward and say its out of warranty. So any help you can provide would be appreciated.
Attachments
What symptom do you have?
Did you check the fuse?
That part appears to be a transorb (I can't be sure). There is probably another one that connects to the other AC line. You can see it toward the bottom of the black connector in the first picture you posted. You should be able to get a part number off the one that is still good. You could likely order another from Digikey or mouser.
They are designed (if my part id is correct) to absorb transient spikes in the power lines and protect the circuit board components. If one is cooked it is possible that you got a big surge or lightning strike. Usually they fail open, which wouldn't prevent the board from working. It is possible that the surge also took out your fuse.
Please write back with detailed symptoms, and the condition of your fuse. Can you verify that you have AC power at the input with a voltmeter?
Good luck
Mike M.
Did you check the fuse?
That part appears to be a transorb (I can't be sure). There is probably another one that connects to the other AC line. You can see it toward the bottom of the black connector in the first picture you posted. You should be able to get a part number off the one that is still good. You could likely order another from Digikey or mouser.
They are designed (if my part id is correct) to absorb transient spikes in the power lines and protect the circuit board components. If one is cooked it is possible that you got a big surge or lightning strike. Usually they fail open, which wouldn't prevent the board from working. It is possible that the surge also took out your fuse.
Please write back with detailed symptoms, and the condition of your fuse. Can you verify that you have AC power at the input with a voltmeter?
Good luck
Mike M.
I'm not an electronic guy....but here goes.
My house took a lightning/electrical surge knocked out my directv, telephone, SWG and the GFCI 50amp Breaker to the subpanel. Checked the screw-out fuseholder and everything looked fine. Fixed the breaker, checked the panel and it was getting power at the black power connector. The SWG panel gave no lights or LCD readings. Took it over to a friend who is an electrical engineer. He thought it was a resistor, and he couldnt get a reading on the bottom one labeled RZ2. Checked the RZ2 (transorb or resistor) and it had the following numbers 1502 0241.
Any ideas?
My house took a lightning/electrical surge knocked out my directv, telephone, SWG and the GFCI 50amp Breaker to the subpanel. Checked the screw-out fuseholder and everything looked fine. Fixed the breaker, checked the panel and it was getting power at the black power connector. The SWG panel gave no lights or LCD readings. Took it over to a friend who is an electrical engineer. He thought it was a resistor, and he couldnt get a reading on the bottom one labeled RZ2. Checked the RZ2 (transorb or resistor) and it had the following numbers 1502 0241.
Any ideas?
It's hard to say without seeing it and a schematic.
My impression is that the board would work without those transorbs even installed. It looks like it took a pretty good lightning hit. Perhaps there is a copper trace on the board that is burned open? If it isn't the power supply then it's probably toast. I doubt you'd be able to get replacements for some of the digital parts on that board.
I would start at the AC source, make sure it is getting power to the step-down transformer (which I think is mounted off the board). Check the windings on the step-down transformer. Check if you are getting low voltage AC at the output of the transformer. Then check the rectifier and regulator on the DC supply. Maybe your Electrical engineer friend can take a closer look at it for you?
Good luck
Mike M.
My impression is that the board would work without those transorbs even installed. It looks like it took a pretty good lightning hit. Perhaps there is a copper trace on the board that is burned open? If it isn't the power supply then it's probably toast. I doubt you'd be able to get replacements for some of the digital parts on that board.
I would start at the AC source, make sure it is getting power to the step-down transformer (which I think is mounted off the board). Check the windings on the step-down transformer. Check if you are getting low voltage AC at the output of the transformer. Then check the rectifier and regulator on the DC supply. Maybe your Electrical engineer friend can take a closer look at it for you?
Good luck
Mike M.
I think your correct. When I look at the back, it appears that one of the lines (copper trace?) the copper is visible for about 5-10mm. I'm guessing that it would be cheaper to buy a refurb'ed board.
If you can see a damaged trace I would suggest trying to repair it before you scrap the board. If you know someone who has some soldering skills it should be an easy repair. If it still doesn't work after repairing the burnt traces, then you are probably right that a refurb board might be the way to go.
Good luck
Good luck
Thanks to mikemo and his post nearly 4 years ago, I identified why my SWCG was on the fritz! The SL32-2R025 was the culprit. It was very much cracked, and the pc board around it charred. Ordered the new part from Digikey, cleaned up the board, and soldered it in a few hours ago. Working like a charm now. Around $10 (I went ahead and ordered two, to have a spare) with USPS Priority Mail shipping. The controller had been running hot, smelling burned, and acting erratic for some time. It finally stopped generating at all this past weekend. So, I got on here and found this thread. Thanks again, mikemo! Nice to not be having to buy a new board, especially here at tax time (ouch!).
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