AquaRite Problem Solved

[chlorinatorpro]

Moved from here.
I've had a rash of customer calls this past week for AquaRite systems reading 0000 ppm average salt and 0 amps. When the owner tries to reset the average salt level, the current limiter "clicks" and goes to -0 (instant salt) but doesn't cycle . What we have found is the rectangular shaped relays just below the display board have had cold solder breaks and needed a bead of solder on each point. This is quite common on the AquaLogic/ProLogic boards but have been rare on the AquaRite boards (in my experience). It's mostly been affecting r1.40 boards and lower.

Posting this just in case others have had similar issues and were replacing boards and/or cells.

 

[JamesW]

It's mostly been affecting r1.40 boards and lower.

Those are old boards. So, it doesn't make sense that they would suddenly begin failing.

If there was an issue with those boards, it would have become noticeable by now.

The solder points carry 6 to 8 amps, which is a significant amount of current.

Any weakness can create a hot spot and eventually burn out the solder.

In any case, the first thing to check is the thermistor and then the solder points.

 

[chlorinatorpro]

Just quoting JamesW from an archived thread:

<Those are old boards. So, it doesn't make sense that they would suddenly begin failing.

If there was an issue with those boards, it would have become noticeable by now.

The solder points carry 6 to 8 amps, which is a significant amount of current.

Any weakness can create a hot spot and eventually burn out the solder.

In any case, the first thing to check is the thermistor and then the solder points. >

Does anything make sense sometimes with salt systems? LOL. Just reporting what I am hearing from my customers. Yes, 95% of the time it's the current limiter that fails on AquaRite boards and the Power light goes out. This issue is different as the Power light is staying on and the current limiter is working.