Aquarite gone haywire

abfab

Well-known member
Nov 12, 2012
136
Ontario, Canada
Can someone explain what is wrong with my swg... flow sensor perhaps?
Yesterday: 20200926_174436_1.mp4
Today: 20200927_142802_1.mp4

I opened the panel yesterday and saw power, no flow and check cell lights alternating. I tried switching to off and unplugging it but got the same thing. I checked the pump basket and it was clean. I checked the grey wire, no damage. I checked the cell and found what looks like a piece of rusty metal but otherwise was very clean. I put it back but no change. I walked away to do an online search but could not find anything. When I checked a while later and power light was green. I switched the unit to auto and the generating light turned on. I checked a couple of times that night and both lights were still on.

This morning it was still okay. I turned on the pool heater (set to 90F) and walked away. Came back a couple of hours later and the problem was back. I turned off the main power this time. When I turned it back on I got the power light and generating turns on for 5 seconds. Then the unit turns off/on and no flow flashes. This is the state it is currently in.

I have never had issues with calcium build up in the cell. Occasionally I find some small rusty pieces but overall it stays very clean so I've never done a muriatic acid cleaning, just rinse with a hose. I've had this cell for 8 years (not sure when it was installed) and typically keep it set around 10P.

I have noticed that my chlorine level has been more unstable this year. Typically I set it at the start of the season and only have to adjust 1-2P. This year I've had to set it as high as 20P to make sure I am in the 3-5 range.

These were the readings yesterday after it started working again. Other pool details are in my signature.
2.90 (2900)
31
25.4
4.67
14P
-2.10
AL-1
r 1.58
t-15
-
 

abfab

Well-known member
Nov 12, 2012
136
Ontario, Canada
Do you think it could be the water temp causing this? Because of the cool nights and hot days we've been using the heater for longer stretches during the day to get the water up to 90F (we don't have a solar cover). We've never used the heater this much as the pool would normally be closed by now.

I went to check the panel this morning (heater was off all night) and it's now generating. I haven't touched the display board yet as my chlorine level is 2. It's supposed to be a hot, sunny day so I don't want to risk an algae problem.

Could hot water cause the flow sensor to malfunction?? I found a spare, unused flow sensor that the previous owner left. It is identical to this one. Tag says model q-12ds-c2. How can I tell if it is compatible with my swg?
 

C0d3Sp4c3

Well-known member
Dec 10, 2018
101
NorCal
If the water is too hot or too cold, the Generating light would flash and chlorine production is halted.
As advised earlier, try to reseat the display board. Clean the contacts if necessary.

If symptoms persist, inspect the RJ-11 phone jack for deterioration or corrosion. You may have to remove the mainboard to accomplish this task.
To rule out the flow switch, splice an old 4-wire or 2-wire telephone plug. Twist together the wires as shown in the below pic and then plug it to the RJ-11 jack.
When you turn on the AC power, the No Flow indicator should be flashing for about one minute. Then followed by solid Generating light, and 10 seconds later you should hear the relay click.

Edit: To follow up, you might be prompted with a check salt and inspect cell lights 50 secs after the relay clicked because the cell is reporting the instant salinity at -2100. That is below the minimum threshold level of 2300 (read the label in the back of the front door). Use a reliable salt test kit to verify the actual salt level. Inspect and clean the cell. If no go, time to replace the cell.
Flow switch test.jpg
 
Last edited: