Aquabot Turbo T just died

[Blowout]

Well the pump just went on the Turbo T about 2 weeks ago. The pump stopped working. I disassembled teh pump motor tried changing out the capacitors, but when I bench tested it the magic smoke left the motor and that was that.

I wasn't sure if I should replace the motor or look into a new bot and then found the original receipt. Turns out this robot is 9 1/2 years old. Its always in the pool unless we have guests over... then I pull it out and store it.

Previously had a Polaris 380 and before that another Polaris. The Aquabot cleaned way better. Usually 2hrs in our 16 x 36 ft pool and it was clean except for a few small areas. I stopped brushing the sides pretty much except for a few trouble spots on the walls that algae normally collects when the chlorine concentration isn't correct. It cleaned the walls and bottom that well.

The only real issue with the Turbo T experienced over it's life is it would cover the same area several times and miss other areas. Found changing the roller brushes and Gtracks when that begins to happen would usually correct it.

With a life span like that I'll be buying a new Aquabot! Looking at the T2 this time.

 

[wireform]

Don't know what you mean by magic smoke but I've changed those Capacitors on a classic and continues to work now 2 years later.

 

[Blowout]

It's a joke... when the (magic) smoke comes out, it doesn't work any more. This motor had rectifier diodes soldered to the capacitors.
Pump motor Capacitor SURPRISE rectifier

When I noticed the pump was running very slow, I thought the capacitors would definitely be the cause. I soldered the existing diodes to the new capacitors in the same way they were soldered to the old capacitors. When bench testing the motor began to turn slow as it did with the old capacitors, but then the black wire got hot within a few seconds and burned off the motor. Must have a short somewhere in the motor as well.

 

[wireform]

It's a joke... when the (magic) smoke comes out, it doesn't work any more. This motor had rectifier diodes soldered to the capacitors.
Pump motor Capacitor SURPRISE rectifier

When I noticed the pump was running very slow, I thought the capacitors would definitely be the cause. I soldered the existing diodes to the new capacitors in the same way they were soldered to the old capacitors. When bench testing the motor began to turn slow as it did with the old capacitors, but then the black wire got hot within a few seconds and burned off the motor. Must have a short somewhere in the motor as well.

I don't think you can burn the motor unless the oil was missing. The first thing that goes is the capacitors. I would ignore the resistor/rectifier diodes and replace the capacitors only. This may have been at some time repaired and someone tried something new.

 

[Blowout]

I don't think you can burn the motor unless the oil was missing. The first thing that goes is the capacitors. I would ignore the resistor/rectifier diodes and replace the capacitors only. This may have been at some time repaired and someone tried something new.

I didn't have the oil in the motor so likely your right....that caused the black wire to burn off the motor. Even so, the motor didn't spin up as it should have in the moments before the wires burnt. It was moving slowly exactly the same as when I noticed the issue in the first place. Something else must be going on with this unit.

The unit was new when I bought it 9.5 yrs ago so it hadn't been touched before I messed with it. In the link provided above, its shows someone else who had the rectifiers wired in their motor.

One thing I didn't mention is when the capacitors were removed, the wires attached to the outside caps had corroded completely through. It seems water had seeped through into the unit and caused the disintegration of the wires.

The transformer on the unit is also having issues and won't always turn off after the designated time. Usually just keeps running until I turn it off. The cord has been chewed by opposums a few times and the plug is deteriorating.

I found a new open box T2 for $725. With the other issues potentially going to fail soon, I'll just pick it up and use the old unit for spare parts. Figured for $10 for caps it was worth a try before replacing the whole unit.