Aqua trol won't switch off

PoolElle

Member
Jun 14, 2015
6
Austin TX
The only way I can get my aqua trol to turn off is by unplugging it. Timer no longer causes it to switch on/off at the set times, but even flipping the switch down in the "OFF" position doesn't do it. Also having a lot of trouble keeping chlorine levels up and with water getting cloudy, so I suspect it is not generating chlorine. It's about 7 years old. Call to the company was not helpful... they sent a link to the guide (which I already can find on my own) but trouble shooting guide doesn't address this problem anyway. Do I need to replace it or can I fix this? If I can fix it... how?! THANKS!!!!
 

PoolElle

Member
Jun 14, 2015
6
Austin TX
Thanks. I couldn't find anything specifically about this issue. I can't run diagnostics because the controller doesn't do anything when switched between off/timer/on. My salt cell is 7 years old. Would a bad cell causes this problem? Or is the the electrical system of the aqua trol itself?


See if the above article is of any help.
 

C0d3Sp4c3

Well-known member
Dec 10, 2018
101
NorCal
Looks like my troubleshooting skills over the internet will fail again. I have zero exposure to the Aquatrol system but my small brain can't help but put together the possibilities.
When you say "I can't run diagnostics because the controller doesn't do anything when switched between off/timer/on." Did you mean the Diagnostic button is not responding or the controller is dead as in "No Display, No Lights"?
It's true, a stuck K3 relay will make the pump run if it is plugged in. You can verify that by disconnecting the 2 blk wires circled in red as shown in the pic below. Measure the resistance between the 2 terminals on the board. However, the controller not responding to the timer is baffling!

First off, rule out the timer! Turn off AC power, unplug the J1 timer from the board. Check for continuity between the 2 brown wires. It's a break/make switch, so you have to toggle the timer on/off.
With the J1 timer disconnected, Plug the swcg and confirm the motor runs. Please let me know if you want to proceed.

Aquatrol.jpg
 
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PoolElle

Member
Jun 14, 2015
6
Austin TX
Thank you for the info. I will try this and get back to you. To answer the question though... When I plug in the aquatrol, it comes on, lights work, pump comes on, water flows through pool. But moving the switch from off to on or to timer or any position does not change anything. I cannot turn it off with the off switch, which is how I normally do it. I have to unplug it. I can use the diagnostics button, I shouldn't have said that exactly.... I just don't know if it is reading correctly; that's what I meant. Says my salt level is fine, but pool store said was low. Have added salt. My T5 salt cell looks clean. It is 7 years old. I cannot be sure that chlorine is being generated. It is VERY hot in Texas right now and I have turned up chlorine production knob; maybe just getting used quickly? I had a bit of algae growing and have been doing algae treatment followed by shock treatments (total of 3 times this week) My chlorine levels are good on test strips, but the free chlorine is low. CYA is low, need to go to pool store (will get there Tuesday) and all other tests are fine, pH etc. Water is now clear (basically by yesterday, Saturday, it started looking better and today Sunday it is clear.) Squirrels have been eating the pecans off the tree right over the pool this year, creating a large mess daily (and I clean it daily... at first I thought the green was from the green pecans (they are not the "real" pecans, I call them pre-pecans, they are green) staining the vinyl. Took me a minute (and the water getting darker green) to realize it was algae (I never had this problem until last year, so am a newbie at algae knowledge))I have never taken the panel apart, but I will do this and look for what you mentioned. Thank you!
 

C0d3Sp4c3

Well-known member
Dec 10, 2018
101
NorCal
ok, thank you for the clarification.
Looks like you may have a bad timer. As mentioned earlier, probe the two brown wires coming out of the timer. The continuity should break and make depending on the position of the trippers/switch.

For water balancing and treatment, I will leave that to the experts.