I had my pool water tested at a professional pool store. They said my salt was 2300. The board was showing 3300. I was told to add 2 bags of salt. When I did, the board now shows 4300 and then it jumps to high, then the generator stops generating chlorine. I was having this issue last summer too, but I limped along. I have a new salt cell. I’m guessing the board is bad? I didn’t have this problem the first 4 years. Should I replace the board?
Aqua trol salt chlorine generator is reading salt level incorrectly
- Thread starter Hooper81
- Start date
For Aquatrol, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
Report all readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
What is the T-cell size?
Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?
To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.
You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.
You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
Report all readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
What is the T-cell size?
Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?
To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.
You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.
You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.
K-1766 Taylor Salt Test
tftestkits.net
Here are my readings when switched to off: 4200, 76, 31.3, 0.0, 69P, -0, AL-7, r 1.45
When switched to auto: 4200,76, 25.2,4.48, 69P, -4200, AL-7, r 1.45
off for 1 minute and switched back to auto:
4200, 76, 24.9, 4.33, 70P, -4100, AL-7, r 1.45
cell serial # 10625 (platinum edition replacement cell for T-5)
Box serial #1A15120-138826
the pool store measured the salinity with their machine this morning:2300
My box read 3,300
They told me to add 2 bags of salt and a gallon of muratic acid because my pH was too high(pool was cloudy)
After I did all of this, a couple of hours later, the box read Hi. I recalibrated it, but it only goes down to 4200.
When switched to auto: 4200,76, 25.2,4.48, 69P, -4200, AL-7, r 1.45
off for 1 minute and switched back to auto:
4200, 76, 24.9, 4.33, 70P, -4100, AL-7, r 1.45
cell serial # 10625 (platinum edition replacement cell for T-5)
Box serial #1A15120-138826
the pool store measured the salinity with their machine this morning:2300
My box read 3,300
They told me to add 2 bags of salt and a gallon of muratic acid because my pH was too high(pool was cloudy)
After I did all of this, a couple of hours later, the box read Hi. I recalibrated it, but it only goes down to 4200.
Platinum Edition Compatible Salt Cell for Hayward® T-CELL-5® | 20,000 Gallons | 5-Year Warranty
Hayward Aquarite Salt Water Chlorine Generator Replacement Cell. Hayward Aquarite T-5 20,000 Gallon with Cell Cord. Salt Cell Replacement. 5 YR Warranty Platinum Edition.
saltpoolstore.com
Is this what you got?
Either the salinity really is about 4,100 ppm or the cell is overproducing.
The cell might be a T-9 or a T-15 by mistake.
If you can see and measure the plates, this is what is in the Hayward cells.
Here are the dimensions of the Hayward plates:
T-15 has 13 Titanium Plates, 150 x 63mm. Produces 1.47 lbs/day.
T-9 has 13 Titanium Plates, 101 x 63mm. Produces 0.98 lbs/day.
T-5 has 7 Titanium plate, 150 x 63mm. Produces 0.735 lbs/day.
T-3 has 7 Titanium Plates, 101 x 63mm. Produces 0.53 lbs/day.
You need a K-1766 salt test kit.
In any case, the board is fine and you need to reduce the salinity.
You should not have added salt if the box reading was OK.
Make sure that the salt is well mixed in by thoroughly brushing the pool 3X.
The reason I added salt was because the pool store said my reading was low. The first 3 years, my board readings and the pool store were in sync. Then slowly, mine started to be different. So you think the pool store’s calibration is suddenly wrong?
Before I replaced my cell, my readings were starting to be way off from the pool store. I always had them check my cell at the beginning of the season. The only reason I bought a new one was because the old one cracked.
when I look inside the new cell, it looks like there are 12 slots, so maybe they sent me the wrong cell? Do I need to get a new cell?
Before I replaced my cell, my readings were starting to be way off from the pool store. I always had them check my cell at the beginning of the season. The only reason I bought a new one was because the old one cracked.
when I look inside the new cell, it looks like there are 12 slots, so maybe they sent me the wrong cell? Do I need to get a new cell?
If there are 13 plates, you probably have a T-9 or T-15 equivalent cell.
It's actually a bigger/better cell, but it will overproduce unless you reduce the salinity.
You probably have a bigger cell than a T-5 or the salinity is higher than you think.
You can use the cell, but you have to reduce the salinity enough to avoid the high salt warning light.
Test the salinity 2 different reliable ways.
You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.
K-1766 Taylor Salt Test
tftestkits.net
I bought the K-1766 salt kit. It shows the salinity as 3000 ppm. The board still shows 4100. Does this not mean the board is messed up?
I think that the cell is a T-9.
As long as it's working, I would not worry about it.
If you get a high salt error, lower the salinity until the error goes away.
As long as it's working, I would not worry about it.
If you get a high salt error, lower the salinity until the error goes away.