Aqua rite trouble no countdown for recalibration

orangepower10

Well-known member
Jul 13, 2019
59
Sulphur, Oklahoma
Just finished the pool and I can’t seem to get the aqua rite to get the correct readings. I put 17 bags of salt in. I waited for 24 hours with pump running. As soon as I turn the aqua rite on, it turns red with low salt and the check cell light comes on. Independent test shows 2350 on strip. Board shows 1800 and won’t do the countdown for recalibration. I have a t-15 cell and it’s correct on the board. Any ideas what’s going on?

Kind of freaking out bc it’s been 3 days and there’s no chlorine in the pool bc the generating light won’t stay on.
 

orangepower10

Well-known member
Jul 13, 2019
59
Sulphur, Oklahoma
Finally got it to stay on and it’s reading 2700 now. Generating light staying steady. I know it’s probably tough to answer but how should I be operating the pump (Hayward ecostar variable) and what should the desired output be on the salt chlorinator? 60%

Yes I got some salt strips but they are different I think. I’ll pick up some of the ones you suggested. Thanks.
 

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ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
11,283
Northern NJ
How much liquid chlorine should I put in? 26000 gallons in pool. Just pour it in the deep end with pump running I guess?
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

PoolMath

FC/CYA Chart


It all starts with your CYA level to answer that. Then use the tools to determine FC target and how much chlorine.
 
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mguzzy

Well-known member
Jul 8, 2015
834
OV, CA
Test strip this morning showed 3200 for salt.
pH - 8.4
FC - 1
Total Alkalinity - 240
Stabilizer - 30-50
Salt looks good... how does that compare with what your equipment is reporting?
Stabilizer 30-50? are you using strips to test your chem? You should use a proper test kit (Test Kits Compared). The Taylor test kits is what is used here as a standard for best comparison... Strips are too variable. By those measurements your FC is still low as well as your CYA. for a SWG pool your CYA should be 60-80 and follow the FC/CYA Chart chart to set your FC. I would add liquid chlorine to jump start the FC level it will make life easier on your cell... oh and start working on dropping that pH too.
 
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orangepower10

Well-known member
Jul 13, 2019
59
Sulphur, Oklahoma
Salt level is under control. I purchased the Taylor 2006C test kit and it will be here Tuesday. In the meantime, I'm trying to balance the water using the aquachek test strips. I added 50 ounces of chlorine and 50 ounces of muriatic acid last night. According to PoolMath that was enough to raise my FC by 1.5 but it doesn't even show a reading on the strip (still white, no purple tint at all). The muriatic acid did have an effect as it lowered the PH from 8.4 to close to 7.9 (really hard to tell exactly where it is on the chart). Alkalinity is still off the charts according to the test stick at around 240. We just opened the pool so this is all new to me. My understanding is that the High alkalinity/PH may be limiting the effectiveness of the chlorine I put in. Pool math suggested nearly twice as much muriatic acid but I didn't want to overdo it.

Should I trust the test strips and go ahead and add more muriatic acid or wait until the Taylor test kit comes in on Tuesday? Just worried that I'll have a problem with the water by then because that will be over a week since we filled the pill and still have no chlorine in the pool. Oddly, the water is crystal clear but none of the readings are ideal. I ran the Tiger Shark yesterday for the first time and it cleaned up the bottom very well.
 
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ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
11,283
Northern NJ
Put 3 ppm of liquid chlorine as calculated by PoolMath into your water every day if you are not using your SWG. Wait for your Taylor kit before making any other changes. Your test strips can lead you way wrong.
 
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