Aqua Rite Salt Reading Problem


New member
Apr 10, 2007
Biloxi, MS
Hi Everyone. I have learned a lot about maintaining my new pool by reading the forums the last few months, and I would like to thank you for sharing your knowledge.

Now I have an issue that I haven't seen addressed. I have an Aqua Rite SWCG that is giving me accurate salt level readings of 3100ppm on the instant read display. I ordered the Taylor test kit to confirm this.

It is my understanding that the main salt level display is an average of the instant readings. It appears that the unit is taking instant readings even when my pump is not running, (pump currently runs 6 hours/day) therefore a lot of zero readings are being included in the average. This drives down my average reading below the lower threshold, the error lights come on, and the unit does not generate chlorine when the pump comes back on. While the pump is running, the unit will take correct readings and the average starts to come up again. It just doesn't get high enough for the unit to begin generating chlorine.

If I manually turn the Aqua Rite off when the pump is not running, the main display reading does not go down over a period of time.

If the flow switch is working correctly, should it shut down the unit so that it does not take readings when the pump is off, or is that a function of the unit being wired to the load side of the filter pump timer?

Some other information regarding the pool:

IG Fiberglass 11000gal
Temp 75-80
Tested w/ Taylor K-2006 kit.


The aquarite is actually measuring conductivity and not salt. It is not temperature compensated so the reading will change with temperature. Also the newer units can calibrate the salt display in case it is off. The average salt reading is supposed to only operate when the unit is generating chlorine since when it is not there is no conductivity through the cell. What is your unit reading for the average salt reading? Is it lower than 2500 ppm? If it is reading higher than this then there is some other problem with your unit. Goldline has excellent telephone support and if you call their 800 support number a technician can help you diagnose what is going on. Have your salt level checked at a pool store or invest in a bottle of AquaCheck White salt test strips. They are about as accurate as the Taylor salt test kit and more redily available. The are based on the same argentometic test as the taylor salt kit.


New member
Apr 10, 2007
Biloxi, MS
Waterbear, my average salt reading goes up and down throughout the day and that is part of the problem.

If I bring up the instant reading display and perform the reset procedure with the pump running, all of the previous readings are erased and the average reading will match the instant reading. This is usually around 3100ppm. The average will remain around 3100ppm and the unit will generate chlorine as long as the pump is running. When the pump goes off, I would expect that the unit will not try to generate chlorine, the unit will not try to get an instant reading, and the average reading will stay around 3100ppm. What is actually happening is that the unit appears to be trying to generate chlorine when the pump is off. Therefore, the instant reading occurs, and since there is no water in the cell, the instant reading is 0. As this repeatedly happens overnight, the average reading goes down. By the time the pump comes on the next day, the average reading can be below 1000ppm. When the pump comes on, the instant readings are again around 3100ppm and the average starts to come up again.

When I checked the unit last night, the pump had been off for about 1 hour. The display actually showed an amperage reading in the cell of less than 0.1 as if it was trying to generate chlorine. I thought the amperage in the cell should always be 0 when the pump is off.

So the question is, should my flow switch totally disable chlorine generation when the pump is off? I never see the "No Flow" light come on. Shouldn't this light be on when the pump is off?

Even if the flow switch is malfunctioning shouldn't the fact that the unit is "suppossed" to be wired to the "load" side of the pump timer prevent chlorine generation when the pump is off?

BTW, I have contacted Goldline support, but I haven't been able to call them when I am at home due to my work schedule. Maybe I can get home before they close tonight. I'm just trying to get as much information as I can.


It does sound like your unit is not functioning properly. I would suspect that the flow switch is shorted or stuck closed. You can check the connection of the flow switch to the controller unit and make sure it is properly hooked up and the wires are not shorted, causing the unit to think that water is always flowing. If it is possible to remove the flow switch from the plumbing you can visually inspect it to make sure that nothing is stuck in it. Is the flow switch plumbed directly inline with the cell with no valves in between? If it has been plumbed in the wrong place so water is always flowing through it what you describe can also happen. There might also be a problem with the main board in your unit. IMHO, you really need to contact Goldline or the installer.


Active member
May 1, 2007
Actually I think that your swg may not be wired properly. I just installed (it's a goldline aquarite also) mine and the directions state clearly that the unit is to be powerd ONLY when the pump is running. This may be what the issue is. If you don't have your manual you can view it at


LifeTime Supporter
Mar 28, 2007
Houston, TX
FWIW my Intellichlor salt system shows my current salt level at 2750 but an aqua chek test kit shows 3470. I will probably take a water sample to a local store to get a third test. Im not sure if the swcg could need to be calibrated or not.