Aqua Rite Salinity drops to Zero: new Main Board Needed?

jbailey895

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2016
113
Carlsbad, CA
Mentioned this in another thread, but think I need to replace my main board on my Aqua Rite. Replacement Tcell-15 is clean, just added salt, and when I power on the SWG, takes a moment to read the salinity, then goes to 2700-2800 for a couple minutes, then I hear a "click", and the salinity drops to 0 and the check salt light goes on. I do have the K-1766, so I'll check my level, but I think its the generic board I bought a few years back.

Just to confirm, is this the right board?
Amazon.com: Hayward GLX-PCB-RITE Replacement Main PCB Printed Circuit Board for Hayward Goldline AquaRite Salt Chlorination Systems: Patio, Lawn Garden

There is a more expensive one, but I think the above is correct, and its OEM.
Here is what I've got right now:
 

mas985

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 3, 2007
14,046
Pleasanton, CA
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With those boards, the thermal limiter is always a suspect. Pretty easy to replace if you have a soldering iron.
 

jbailey895

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2016
113
Carlsbad, CA
Thanks Mark, I've replaced it before, I don't think that's the issue this time, but will look closely at it tonight. New board is on its way with Amazon same-day, crazy to order this am and get it by tonight (Florida to San Diego, wow)
 

jbailey895

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2016
113
Carlsbad, CA
OK, so thanks to Amazon same-day, I got the new board, and installed it, making sure it was set for t-15. Here were the readings:
AL-0
r 1.59
t-15
2100
84
26.2
6.49
57p

After approx 2 mins, I hear a click, flashing chk salt and Inspect cell, then salinity drops to 0, and no generation.

This was essentially the same symptomology with the prior PCB board. The cell is less than 6 mos. old (its an OEM warranty cell from Hayward), I checked/cleaned it again today, clear fins.

Quite frustrating, any suggestions?

Thanx,
Joel
 

Meadow

Well-known member
Jun 10, 2016
477
Temecula, CA
I would imagine you paid top $ for same day shipping.
Salinity of 2100 is way too low. Did you test salt level using K-1766? If your salt level is within the recommended range (2700-3400) then most likely your T-Cell is the culprit.
Check the connector for any signs of deterioration and make sure it sits properly. Else, replace the cell.
 

jbailey895

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2016
113
Carlsbad, CA
Free same day shipping on Amazon Prime. yes, I used the K-1766, I have 3000 ppm salt. I guess I'll pull the cell and have it tested again, but its about 4 months old, almost unused (the pool was resurfaced and drained for almost a month) i have a bad feeling I didn't need the $200 board I just bought. . . .

The Orange and yellow wires coming out of the box did look a little discolored, wonder if there's any other replaceable component to consider. . .
 

jbailey895

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2016
113
Carlsbad, CA
yeah, thanks, I thought the cell was my constant, known value since it is fairly new, but not playing nice. The Orange and Yellow wires coming from the box, anyone know what they do, and where they go? The were discolored, so wondering if that could be a point of failure, but the easiest next step to check the cell again. . .
Cheers
 

mas985

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 3, 2007
14,046
Pleasanton, CA
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The yellow and orange wires come from the transformer. The transformer steps the voltage down from 120/240 to 24vac at the orange and yellow leads. Those then feed the rectifiers and the red and black leads at the top should be 24vdc.

If you are hearing a click before the 0 ppm salt, it is likely the relay is tripping for some reason. You can put a volt meter on the various leads and see if the voltage is cutting out somewhere.
 

jbailey895

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2016
113
Carlsbad, CA
Thanks Mark, I'm electrically-challenged, would that mean it may not be either the cell or the board, but the transformer? I definitely hear a "click" before the #'s fall to zero, so something "trips", but I'm too clueless to verify exactly what it is, or what to do. I do have an analog voltimeter, but honestly don't know how to use it. . .

If you have a sec to 'splain, would be appreciated :)
 

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mas985

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
May 3, 2007
14,046
Pleasanton, CA
Pool Size
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Salt Water Generator
It is hard to say but since you tried two boards, I would suspect it is either the cell or transformer or rectifiers. But to tell for sure, you need to measure the voltage and see where it is cutting out. But testing the cell can eliminate that as a cause.
 

jbailey895

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2016
113
Carlsbad, CA
OK, no worries. For some reason, I fired it up this am, and its reading 3100, and I used the "superchlorinate" entry method to force the default up to 3100. This causes the 'click' and fall to zero, which it did this am, but then restarted itself with the default at 3100, and the current reading -3200, but it seems to be working, for the moment.

Not sure why the "superchlorinate" button causes the fall to zero, but now that I have a workable default, it seems to be holding. I'll keep watch today, but thanks for for your patience and time :)

Joel
 

Gecrabill

Bronze Supporter
Feb 24, 2014
46
Sarasota
Did you recalibrate the average salt reading to the current instant salt reading? What is your instant salt reading? Sounds like a similar issue I had with mine. One polarity on the tcell was fine, the other polarity was shot.
 

mas985

TFP Expert
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May 3, 2007
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Calibration of the AquaRite doesn't affect operation at all. It only changes the average salt level readout.
 

jbailey895

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2016
113
Carlsbad, CA
Sliding the selector to "superchlorinate" from the instant salt reading forces the new default level. Yesterday that caused the levels to drop to zero, but this am it worked, and allowed the cell to montane a constant level for generation.
So far, so good. . .
 

jbailey895

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2016
113
Carlsbad, CA
As an update, the cell works for most of the day, but each morning when I turn my pump on (Pentair intelliflo LCD panel doesn't work, but the buttons and pump work fine), the cell reads zero or very low salinity. I have to turn it off, then "force" the actual salt reading (usually about -3000), and it seems to work for the day.

Any suggestions? I bought a brand new OEM Hayward PCB, and the T-15 is only 4 mos old. . .
 

gman007

Bronze Supporter
Jun 28, 2016
17
Fairfield, CA
As an update, the cell works for most of the day, but each morning when I turn my pump on (Pentair intelliflo LCD panel doesn't work, but the buttons and pump work fine), the cell reads zero or very low salinity. I have to turn it off, then "force" the actual salt reading (usually about -3000), and it seems to work for the day.

Any suggestions? I bought a brand new OEM Hayward PCB, and the T-15 is only 4 mos old. . .

Hi! I'm having the exact same issue... did you figure it out? If so, would you mind sharing? Thanks...
 

jbailey895

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2016
113
Carlsbad, CA
Hey Gman, no, so far I haven't figured it out. I still need to have the cell commercially checked, but it's frustrating as it will work most of the day, but I'll come home to check cell and check salt lights. Next day, I force a salt level Reset, and it seems to work most of the day, and fail sometime before shutoff. . .
 

ping

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 24, 2011
3,144
Long Beach, CA
It might be one side of the cell is failing while the other side is fine. When the cell switches the polarity it will either work or stop working if this is the case. I suggest to have the cell tested to eliminate the cell as the cause.
 
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