Aqua Rite ECG Control Panel Not Working

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kurt7416

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May 13, 2017
6
Chicago IL
Just opened my pool a couple days ago and I can't tell where the problem is. Green power light is lit at all times, Red no flow is full with start up but eventually disappears. None of the other lights come on to indicate check cell, chlorinating, ect. I replaced the fuse and it's the same situation. The box display is stuck on 3000, which is probably the last measurement it was turned off with.

Could this be a flow switch problem, control panel or cell? Thanks for your assistance in advance.

I should also state the pool is getting good flow and is above 75 degrees.
 
^ I can check for you, what ones should I be looking at.

So I took the cell off and cleaned it. Restarted and the control panel came back to life. When I switch it from off to on, generated comes on but check cell flashes and no flow is solid. Eventually they all turn off except power and I'm able to cycle through the diagnostics.
 
OK, all of that looks good. If the display stopped working, it could be a loose display board. You can take the display board off and reinstall it to make a better connection.

If you’re getting a solid No Flow with good flow, it’s probably a bad flow switch. First try unplugging the switch cord from the bottom of the box and reconnecting it.
 
So last night it appeared the control panel was working and set to generate. I turned it on and today it's reading salt at 1300 from 3000 yesterday?// Put a couple bags in and it's now reading 1400??? What reads the level, cell or flow switch? I'm thinking the cell.
 
Move the switch to off. Wait 1 minute. Move the switch to auto. Wait 30 seconds. Recheck all diagnostic readings.

Make sure that the salt is well mixed in before turning on the system.
 

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You might want to get an accurate (Taylor k-1766) test kit.
You'll want to know, independently from the control panel, what your salt level is.
The reason is that when the "cell" part goes bad, it frequently starts reading low salt. Some people just keep adding salt hoping it will stop reading "low". When the cell finally quits completely, they are left with 5000 ppm in the pool and the "new" cell won't have any part of that high number. Next thing you know, you are draining the water to get the salt level back to where it was when the "bad" cell indicated "low salt".
 
JamesW said:
Move the switch to off. Wait 1 minute. Move the switch to auto. Wait 30 seconds. Recheck all diagnostic readings.

Make sure that the salt is well mixed in before turning on the system.
Click to expand...

I've tried that. The cell reads the Salt level, correct?

Philo said:
You might want to get an accurate (Taylor k-1766) test kit.
You'll want to know, independently from the control panel, what your salt level is.
The reason is that when the "cell" part goes bad, it frequently starts reading low salt. Some people just keep adding salt hoping it will stop reading "low". When the cell finally quits completely, they are left with 5000 ppm in the pool and the "new" cell won't have any part of that high number. Next thing you know, you are draining the water to get the salt level back to where it was when the "bad" cell indicated "low salt".
Click to expand...

Good thinking, I may take both my water and cell in to get checked.
 
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