Aqua Rite 20 salt display wrong but cell is good. Won’t recalibrate.

LSJ

Gold Supporter
May 15, 2020
12
Hendersonville TN
Pool was installed in 2007 with Aqua Rite 20. The salt level reads 1700 but it tests 3100. The panel won’t reset. I had the t-cell 5 tested and it is good. We did the acid wash and it is clean. I am unable to verify what cell the panel is set for. The diagnostic screen won’t display the option to set the cell size. When I run through the diagnostic buttons the readings are 1700, 68, 33.5, 0, 54P, -0, 88-1, 8.80. Then it goes back to 1700. Every video I’ve watched says you reset the cell size on screen 8 but I don’t have 8 options. The pool company wants to sell me a new system for $1700! Please help!
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
22,029
How are you testing the salinity?

What are the first seven characters of the cell serial number?

Move the switch to off and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Do you have a picture of the circuit board?
 

LSJ

Gold Supporter
May 15, 2020
12
Hendersonville TN
I took a water sample to a pool supply store and it is 3100.
3E18275
Readings again: 1700, 70, 26.8, 3.71, 54P, -1700, 88-1, 8.8
I haven’t taken the cover off to get a pic of the circuit board.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
22,029
The circuit board is a generic replacement.

It is not the original circuit board. I think that it takes a T-15 cell.

The old boards could not select the T-cell size from the control panel.

Some boards have a jumper on the board that allows you to select a T-15 or T-5 cell.

The cell was made on the 275th day of 2018. So, it's relatively new.

You should get a K-1766 salt test kit so that you can test the salinity yourself.


Did you ever see this system actually working?

Post a picture of the circuit board so that we can see if you have the jumper.
 

LSJ

Gold Supporter
May 15, 2020
12
Hendersonville TN
Yes the system worked up until last year. We replaced the cell last year thinking that was the problem. The system did not work last year and we operated without it. It calls for a T cell 5 see pic. I will get a pic of the circuit board when my husband gets home. Thank you for working with me!
 

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JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
22,029
GLX-PCB-RITE is the Hayward board.

You have a generic replacement board from China.

If the salinity really is 3,100, the board is set to take a T-15.

If there's a jumper on the board, change it to T-5.

If there's no jumper, I don't know if you can change the cell type.

Go to the 88-1 or the 8.8 reading and move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto to see if the number changes.

If you can't change the cell type, you will have to switch to a T-15 cell or replace the circuit board with a genuine Hayward board so that you can change the cell type.

If you have the receipt for the circuit board and it says GLX-PCB-RITE, send it back for the right board.

You could increase the salinity until the instant salinity reading is above 2,400 ppm, which would require the actual salinity to be above 4,000 ppm, but I wouldn't do that.

Was the previous cell a T-15?
 

LSJ

Gold Supporter
May 15, 2020
12
Hendersonville TN
GLX-PCB-RITE is the Hayward board.

You have a generic replacement board from China.

If the salinity really is 3,100, the board is set to take a T-15.

If there's a jumper on the board, change it to T-5.

If there's no jumper, I don't know if you can change the cell type.

Go to the 88-1 or the 8.8 reading and move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto to see if the number changes.

If you can't change the cell type, you will have to switch to a T-15 cell or replace the circuit board with a genuine Hayward board so that you can change the cell type.

If you have the receipt for the circuit board and it says GLX-PCB-RITE, send it back for the right board.

You could increase the salinity until the instant salinity reading is above 2,400 ppm, which would require the actual salinity to be above 4,000 ppm, but I wouldn't do that.

Was the previous cell a T-15?
We’ve only ever used a T-Cell 5. Here are pics.
 

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LSJ

Gold Supporter
May 15, 2020
12
Hendersonville TN
When I go to the 88-1 display like you said, if I keep moving the switch it will change. So I set it at 88-5. Is that what you mean? The salt still reads 1700 after I do that.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
22,029
Set it to 88-5 and then move the switch to off and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Can you remove the display board and show the whole main circuit board?
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
22,029
There are what look like 2 jumpers at J7 and J4.

Remove the bottom one (J4) if it will pull off easily. Save the jumper in case you want to switch to a T-15 cell at a future time.

I think that the J4 jumper selects a T-15 or T-5. Jumper on is T-15. Jumper off is T-5.

Then, try the readings again. Hopefully, the instant salinity reading be accurate.

If the instant salinity is good, move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto.

When you move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto while the instant salinity is on the display, the average salinity gets updated to match the instant salinity.

Put the 88-5 back to 88-1.

Note: The J7 jumper is used for controlling multiple boxes. Jumper on is primary controller. Jumper off is secondary controller.
 
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LSJ

Gold Supporter
May 15, 2020
12
Hendersonville TN
Hello again. You are a genius!! It worked. The readings immediately after were 2900, 72, 27.0, 3.50, 56P, -2900, 88-1, 8.80. I read them a couple of hours later and they are 2900, 75, 31.7, 0, 45P, -0, 88-1, 8.80. Salt tested with a strip at 2900. Does the second reading look good? Thank you so much!
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
22,029
Readings look good.

Glad that you could get it working.

:goodjob:

Note that 56 percent means that the cell will produce for 56% of 180 minutes (111 minutes). It will then remain off for 69 minutes. Then, it will reverse polarity and begin a new cycle. Adjust as needed. The "Generating" light will be on the whole time even when it's not actually generating.

The second percentage is 45p. So, I would guess that you turned it down?

The percentage on the display should roughly correspond to the dial setting.

When in the non-generating part of the cycle, the amps and instant salinity will be zero.
 
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LSJ

Gold Supporter
May 15, 2020
12
Hendersonville TN
Readings look good.

Glad that you could get it working.

:goodjob:

Note that 56 percent means that the cell will produce for 56% of 180 minutes (111 minutes). It will then remain off for 69 minutes. Then, it will reverse polarity and begin a new cycle. Adjust as needed. The "Generating" light will be on the whole time even when it's not actually generating.

The second percentage is 45p. So, I would guess that you turned it down?

The percentage on the display should roughly correspond to the dial setting.

When in the non-generating part of the cycle, the amps and instant salinity will be zero.
Terrific! Yes I did turn down the output. Do you have a suggestion on what it should stay on?

I can’t thank you enough for your help. It’s so hard to find people who will take the time to really listen to the issue and take an interest and invest the time to help. I would really like to send you a token on my appreciation if you would be willing to share your email address.

Thank you, again!!
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
22,029
Glad we could help.

If you would like to become a supporter, that would be appreciated so that we can continue to help people.

For your percentage, you need to adjust it based on your test readings so that your chlorine stays at the correct level.