Any tips pn Retainer walls around pool?

DaveNJ

LifeTime Supporter
May 22, 2007
520
Toms River, NJ
I put in a freestanding wall on one end of pool. Installed it on the edge of the concrete decking. Its about 30ft long and 24in high. Most people gravitate to it for seating.
 

midtngal

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LifeTime Supporter
Oct 26, 2007
546
Nashville, TN
summersgal, I used the Keystone Country Manor retaining wall block for mine. I got it from a local brick/stone yard. One part is 21 inches high and the other is 15 inches. Very heavy blocks but extremely easy to put together.








I used them for the steps as well as you can see. Still a work in progress..............
 

midtngal

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LifeTime Supporter
Oct 26, 2007
546
Nashville, TN
yes, when possible. As you know, sometimes they just don't line up right. I've received a whole bunch of compliments already and the pool's not even done yet! I really like them. And I'm really glad I'm finished lifting them (for the most part)!! :-D
 

midtngal

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LifeTime Supporter
Oct 26, 2007
546
Nashville, TN
There are fiberglass pins that come with the blocks. On the top of these blocks are sporatic holes (depending on how you want the wall elevate). You put the pin in one of these holes, then the next block goes on top of that. The top block has holes in the bottom that align (at least most of the time) with those pins. It's basically the adult version of Legos!! Here's part of the "guidebook" on them......







 

Summersgal

Active member
Mar 13, 2008
35
Muskogee, OKLAHOMA
Just wondering how they work with water from rains and ponds that run over? That is our issue that we are dealing with and trying to figure out which way will be best.
Thanks for the information as I was reading the site when i was notified about another reply :)
 

midtngal

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LifeTime Supporter
Oct 26, 2007
546
Nashville, TN
DaveNJ, I did use the adhesive putting the caps in place. That's some good stuff! It just might be better than mortar! :lol:

summersgal, I wouldn't think there would be an issue with ponds and rain and such. They're heavy enough that they're not going anywhere. In fact, on the first course, just to be on the safe side I pounded a rebar pin in the middle hole and then put mortar in that hole! Might be overkill, but I'm willing to bet a hurricane could come through here and that wall will still be there!! :lol:
 

stever

LifeTime Supporter
I think that's century-block by Keystone? Looks great! I have a similar wall in my front wall about 36" tall. The pins have two positions to allow the wall to be laid up vertically or stepped back toward the dirt slightly.

One thing to be careful about is that the top caps are epoxied on (get it right the first time) and they are sized to work alternating directions for a straight wall. If you have a curved wall the main blocks work great, but the top caps end up with gaps between them.




Steve
 

stever

LifeTime Supporter
Also, if you want a CMU (block) wall with re-bar and mortar/grout most cities have standard walls in teh building department that you can use for heights up to about 6 feet. Over (usually) 3 feet you'll need a permit, but at least you don't need to pay an engineer for designing it.

Steve
 

stever

LifeTime Supporter
I'll have to pull out my old paperwork, but it's not any cheaper than CMU with footing, mortar & grout -- though you'd think it should be. Another example of market pricing. I'll see if I can get that info -- it was a few years ago.

I did not put in my walls, but have ninstelled these in the past. It is easy enough to do yourself. Dig a trench, put gravel in the trench for easy leveling and then set the first course. Make sure it is perfectly level -- I mean perfect! Little errors here will show up later as you add more courses. Then just stack'em. These random width blocks are easier to lay up because the pins fit in a channel in the bottom of the next block. Traditional Keystone has holes in both sides that must line up -- starts to get difficult with tight curves.

Steve
 

midtngal

Silver Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Oct 26, 2007
546
Nashville, TN
Newfool, I bought 5 pallets of the stone and 2 pallets of the capstone and it was $2100. I still have one pallet left of the stone and only a couple pieces of the caps. That's about 70 feet of wall and approx. 20 feet of steps. Like Stever said, it's very easy once the first course is in.
 

Summersgal

Active member
Mar 13, 2008
35
Muskogee, OKLAHOMA
THank you all so much for the response! The pool is now in and now I have SAND everywhere! LOL They are suppose to be back today to run filter/pump and clean the pool out then I guess its all left up to me to take care :)

We are still trying to figure out what we are going to do with the wall and deck. I just ordered a load of screenings(Fine Gravel) that we are going to use under the cement around the pool.

I was looking at the chemicals that they brought with them and trying to figure out what the Muratic acid is for. I never used that in the pool that I had 4 years ago. And with this one being fiberglass it is going to be different taken care of.

I am also still trying to decide which auto pool cleaner that I want to do with. I did use the Creepy in the last pool but was trying to decide if I want to go with that one or something else. And had seen somewhere where someone was talking about "The pool cleaner" but still have not made up my mind on that.