Another Line Blow Out Question

[iamnos]

Skimmer basket and 2 drains in the floor. The floor drains T somewhere underground, I suspect very close to the drains. Then the drain line and skimmer line run up to the pump. Each line has an individual shutoff valve (pictured with the main drains off). From the pump runs through the other pool equipment including the sand filter, salt cell, NG heater, and out through a homemade solar heater with bypass valves.

First, what position should the filter valve be in to do the blowouts. I assume if it's closed, I would only be blowing out the skimmer and main drain lines. Can I blow out the returns as well by closing the main drain valve and putting the filter in recirculate?

This is only the second year closing First year, the builder did it, and I'm considering calling them to do it, but looking at doing it myself as well.

If it helps, frost line here is about 6". Maybe 10" in a bad year.

 

[Texas Splash]

Following-up since it's been a couple days .... did you still need assistance with clearing those lines?

 

[iamnos]

Yeah, I'd still like to hear what I should do.

 

[Texas Splash]

First, what position should the filter valve be in to do the blowouts. I assume if it's closed, I would only be blowing out the skimmer and main drain lines. Can I blow out the returns as well by closing the main drain valve and putting the filter in recirculate?

I think you have the right idea, but let's get confirmation from @Catanzaro for your scenario. Stand-by for more .....

 

[Catanzaro]

If you have a pool blower, you can leave everything on recirculate. If not, either close the MPV and clear the suction side, or use winter plugs in the basket to isolate each section.

 

[Yaeugd]

you might have the same setup as me, the bottoms are not drains there returns, I just blow them out and air lock the valve.

 

[iamnos]

bottoms are definitely drains in my case.

 

[iamnos]

Hooked up the air compressor to a drain line on the pump after trying a few times with the shop vac on the skimmer, and had much better luck. I was fortunate that the threaded end on my hose was the same size as the plug on the pump. My little air compressor was barely up the task. I had to let it fill up a few times, but it got the job done. Was using about 20psi, which I read now is probably more than I needed, but well below any pressure that should have caused any issues. Added some antifreeze to the returns and skimmer. Need to put in the plugs and cover, but that can wait until tomorrow, when I also double check that I removed all the drain plugs form the equipment.

All in all, a lot simpler than I expected.

 

[jmassaro]

did you isolate the suction sides or the return sides, or just blow the air through the whole system?

 

[Catanzaro]

This year, I kept the whole system opened because there was no one here to help me out. But you will need a powerful pool blower to accomplish the task, like the Cyclone. If you are using an air compressor, it is best to isolate each area. The best way to do this is by using winter plugs inside the pump housing of the pump basket.

There are special blow-thru plugs that can be used. Some pumps are designed differently and can be tricky, but the Hayward Single is what works best. This year, I used the air compressor for the return lines, and the Cyclone for the skimmer/main drain. Makes life easier regarding the placement of the winter plugs.

Please read through my sticky!

 

[iamnos]

When I switched to the air compressor, I set the filter to closed to isolate the suction side, and then since I have a valve for the main drain and one for the skimmer, I was able to do each individually on the suction side. Then I shut both of those (main while still under pressure), and set the filter to recirculate. Blew out the two returns I have, and then capped them one at a time to blow them out individually as well. As I mentioned, had to let the compressor catch up a couple times, especially considering how long my lines are (probably 75' under ground). But I'm confident the only water left will be well below our frost line, but even so, I added antifreeze to the returns and skimmer.

 

[Catanzaro]

I have even mentioned to other members to actually close off some returns first and bleed the water out with air first and then go back and open them up from the beginning. Everyone pretty much has to find out what works best for them. Professionals use the Cyclone because of time constraints. My system takes no longer than 12 minutes to close 8 returns, 2 skimmers and a main drain. Everything else takes forever (furniture, tarp, blocks, etc.)

 

[iamnos]

Yeah, I think doing sections at a time with a small compressor works fine, just as you said, can be a bit more time consuming. I was considering looking into a cyclone, but honestly, my air compressor did just fine, so I don't think I'll bother.

 

[Catanzaro]

I have a friend that has a lot of returns, from slides, to spill over spa, to love seats, etc. An air compressor would not work in his situation because of the plumbing, unless I literally shut all the valves off, and usually this is where air volume is needed. Most pools, an air compressor with a little technique works just fine, even for the main drain. Your goal is to push the water below the frost line. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[wwerdna]

My system takes no longer than 12 minutes to close 8 returns, 2 skimmers and a main drain. Everything else takes forever (furniture, tarp, blocks, etc.)

I completely agree. I closed my own pool for the first time this year. Blowing out all the lines and plugging everything took maybe 30 minutes (and part of that was using a shop vac to suck water out of the spa to be able to plug the main drain). The entire closing took me 7 hours with all the other work involved! Of course, the pool company would show up with 3 guys, and I only had assistance from my wife for the step of getting the cover in place.

 

[Catanzaro]

Each year, you become more efficient. One good thing about opening and closing your own pool is the amount of $$ saved, but the satisfaction of knowing you have accomplished something. If you hire someone to open and close your pool, in addition to listen to the pool store, one can easily waste $1,000 per season for no reason what so ever. However, there are situations, where quite honestly, hiring someone to close and open your pool is worth it.

A lot has to do with time, and if one is capable, etc.