Another Green Pool Opening

marlyu

Well-known member
May 24, 2016
97
Woodbridge, VA
#1
Everything's hooked up, vacuumed to waste 3 times, filter is running, chem tests done. Do I start with getting TA up or pH up before SLAM?

CL: 0
TA: 30
pH: 7.0
CH: 125
CYA: 20
 

Richard320

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jan 6, 2010
20,327
San Dimas, CA (LA County)
#2
I wouldn't bother with either, truthfully. I know they're out of parameters, but once you start killing, the filter will load up with dead algae and you'll be backwashing and refilling a bunch and no matter what you do now, it's going to need rebalancing afterwards. You have a vinyl liner, so no worries about plaster damage. No heater to corrode. Add a little CYA to reduce solar losses and jugs away. Don't even wait for the CYA to dissolve.
 

marlyu

Well-known member
May 24, 2016
97
Woodbridge, VA
#3
I wouldn't bother with either, truthfully. I know they're out of parameters, but once you start killing, the filter will load up with dead algae and you'll be backwashing and refilling a bunch and no matter what you do now, it's going to need rebalancing afterwards. You have a vinyl liner, so no worries about plaster damage. No heater to corrode. Add a little CYA to reduce solar losses and jugs away. Don't even wait for the CYA to dissolve.
Thanks for the quick reply Richard. I thought for sure would need to get pH up at least, but alright, 10.5 jugs of bleach just screaming to be used :p
 

marlyu

Well-known member
May 24, 2016
97
Woodbridge, VA
#6
HELP! I have no idea what's going on. So, after we opened with the "swamp," going through SLAM, it only took about 3 days and we had a crystal clear pool. By the date of my previous post, you can see, that was three weeks ago. Everything was great and I was maintaining a chlorine level of about 5. Now, I know we had quite a bit of rain, but I still kept up the chlorine and didn't let it drop. Flash forward to the last 2-3 days and the pool is steadily turning green and murky. Chlorine is not evaporating and I have it back up to slam level 10 (because CYA is 20). It seems to be getting worse by the day. What do I do now?
 

marlyu

Well-known member
May 24, 2016
97
Woodbridge, VA
#8
Yes, although it turned clear, I didn't stop SLAM until passed the three criteria. It was clear for a good two weeks, even through the rains, but the green-ness has crept on over this past week.
 

waskydiver

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 29, 2009
191
#9
Have you re-tested your CYA?

20 is quite low to begin with.. and the rains would have diluted it further.

Since you are low on CYA, anyway, you might want to shock with trichlor. That will add your chlorine AND CYA (which is something to usually avoid).

Probably want to get your TA up a bit too.
 

marlyu

Well-known member
May 24, 2016
97
Woodbridge, VA
#10
Thanks. I've added conditioner to raise CYA on two separate occasions (already have a bucket), and tested it twice since opening. It hasn't gone up. I will add more and continue SLAM in meantime. Just not sure if anything else could be at play here. This exact scenario happened last season too where we got it completely clear and it was fine for a couple of weeks then turned back to green before season's end. But last year it was toward the end of the season so we just closed it up, but now, it's right at the beginning. Same timeline of events though regarding turning back to green within weeks of complete clarity.
 

marlyu

Well-known member
May 24, 2016
97
Woodbridge, VA
#12
Umm, thanks, but we're 4 years into this pool, and I've had the kit and done testing for at least 2 of those years, so I won't call myself a pro, but I know what I'm doing in regards to testing. If I was able to get through the SLAM, testing it every 2-3 hrs and using PoolMath to add the necessary amount each time, I'd say I've got that part down. Now, why it's turning green again, I have no idea. Since pool opening I have not let the FC drop below 5 at any time.
 

Richard320

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jan 6, 2010
20,327
San Dimas, CA (LA County)
#13
I'm wondering if there wasn't a bunch of algae spores on some pool toys or equipment and this weekend was the first time they've been back in? Maybe a cover?

Whatever the cause, another SLAM is called for and when you get near the end this time, toss anything that goes in the pool into the pool to soak in the chlorinated water.
 

marlyu

Well-known member
May 24, 2016
97
Woodbridge, VA
#15
Has anyone used citric acid for metals removal instead of ascorbic? How much more do I need? Original thread I mentioned in previous post says .5 lb of AA per 10,000 gallons, but citric requires more. I have only an 8600 gallon pool. I'm thinking if I order a 2 lb bag I should be ok?
 

Catanzaro

Platinum Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 30, 2014
3,207
Monmouth County, New Jersey
#16
If you passed all 3 tests and your pool was crystal clear, and now the water is going from good to bad. A couple of items come to mind:

1) How long are you running the filter? From what time to what time?
2) How is your circulation in the pool, and are you brushing at least weekly, if not more frequently. Usually, a crystal clear pool will start with an algae spot here and there because of poor circulation.
3) When are you adding the liquid chlorine (during sunlight, early morning, or late at night)?
4) You will need to increase your CYA to at least 30-50 (recommend range).

I looked at your signature and you have an Intex Pool. Probability is that the circulation is the issue. Perform another SLAM and then you will need to brush the pool more often. Start with 3X (Weekly), and then scale back to 2X after a few weeks if you have success. You may also want to increase the filtration time. If the pump is moving 2,800 GPH, this is great, assuming that all algae spores are suspended in the water and the filter is doing its job.

Another common mistake pool owners make with Sand Filters is that they backwash too often. Check starting pressure after backwashing and only perform the routine maintenance when the pressure rises 25%-30% above normal starting pressure.

Can you please post a picture of the pool and water?
 

marlyu

Well-known member
May 24, 2016
97
Woodbridge, VA
#17
I don't have an Intex Pool. I have a Kayak above ground pool. Intex is the filter.

To answer your questions:

1) During SLAM/start-up, it was running 24/7. Once completely clear and passed, we run it 12 hours during the day and off at night. Again, with this routine it was clear for a couple of weeks.
2) We brush multiple times a week, at least every other day. Not sure if circulation is an issue or not.
3) I would add chlorine after testing typically within an hour of it starting up in the morning (so about 9 or 10am).

It's raining (again!) so can't take a pic at the moment, but I have a really strong suspicion this may be issue as with vacuuming and brushing and adding extra bleach in the last two days it's getting worse even though chlorine is registering high and not going down/burning off at any rate if algae was present and consuming it.

We backwash the filter when changing the hairnet on the trap basket, which was every other day as it would fill up with leaves.

- - - Updated - - -

I'm not trying to be difficult or question TFP basics, but because this is the second year of the same problem where SLAM #2 doesn't help because the chlorine level is maintaining, so testing every 2-3 hrs is pointless as I don't need to add any additional bleach. I'm going to pursue another TFP article and try to remove metals (iron). So, if anyone has experience with citric acid, that'd be great.
 

Catanzaro

Platinum Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 30, 2014
3,207
Monmouth County, New Jersey
#18
A couple of items that concerns me (Please see below). In addition, the above ground pools usually have the same type of set up, with limited returns and skimmers, etc. with no main drains. Brushing is a must (which you have been doing).

I would add chlorine after testing typically within an hour of it starting up in the morning (so about 9 or 10am).
IMO, this is too late in the morning. It is recommended real early or later on at night (within 30 minutes of sunrise or sunset). My friends use 3X the amount of liquid chlorine as I do because they like to add at off times.

We backwash the filter when changing the hairnet on the trap basket, which was every other day as it would fill up with leaves.
Not necessary. Only backwash when pressure rises above the recommended range. The filter works better when dirty. I know people who do not even follow the 30% rules, but wait until they are about 50% over, but still have great flow. The water is so crystal clear, makes me kind of jealous! LOL

You can try the citric acid approach with metals. There is a lot of information on this topic. Please use the search feature. In your case, it may be best to clear up the pool and use an algaecide as a weekly maintenance. We recommend this in rare occasions, and this is probably one of them. Use only PolyQuat 60 - Non foaming, non-metallic. Kemtek (Amazon sells this). Thank you.
 

marlyu

Well-known member
May 24, 2016
97
Woodbridge, VA
#19
Thanks for the additional insight. The reason we backwash, is although the pressure may not have gone over the 25/30%, we do see that the return slows quite a bit, so makes me think circulation is suffering?

I did find info on citric acid in the search, thanks, and will try that. If I'm adding bleach though real early or late at night, that's when the filter is off, and shouldn't you only add stuff when it's running? That said, isn't it better to run it during the day when sun's out than at night?