Am I interpreting the point of Taylor's Watergram calculator right?


Jan 31, 2019
Southern California
I live in Southern Califormia and have a 12K gallon fresh water pool, healthy and no problems that I know of. I use liquid chlorine and liquid MA, the cheap Home Depot stuff. Typical pool chemistry before I add Cl and acid about every 3 days:

Cl 3.0
Ph 7.6

I check TA & CH once a month, most recent readings:

TA: 100
CH: 575

It's the CH that concerns me of course. My understanding is that 400 is the recommenced max. In February it got up to 525 and so I drained ALOT of water and managed to get it down to 350. I say ALOT of water because my tap water itself is 275. So draining/replenishing was a big time consuming PITA. But obviously I have to do it again after a brutal summer with lots of evaporated/added water. However I'd like to wait til the heavy winter rains come in a couple of months.

On the one hand I understand the problems high CH can create and so maybe I should deal with it now. But when I use my Taylor Watergram calculator and dial in the readings and water temp (60 degrees), it says my saturation is at .3, within the acceptable range of pool balance.

So the way I'm interpreting the situation is: 575 is not good, but considering the other readings, I'm still OK for now --- the water is balanced in spite of the high CH --- so no need drop what I'm doing and take immediate action.

Do I have it right?



TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011

Use PoolMath, it's easier, faster and more accurate.

When using the wheel, you have to use "adjusted alkalinity, which is the alkalinity minus 1/3rd of the CYA.
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Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Nov 12, 2017
Central California
Pool Size
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hey Rick!

Our fill CH is similar. You'll be struggling with this issue forever. When I purchased this house with pool, the previous owners and their pool guy let the CH go and the pool was ruined by calcium deposits covering the finish. I had the finish replaced, but the high CH fill water problem remained. I solved it for good by running a line from my water softener out to the pool equipment pad where I could splice it into the feed for my pool's auto-fill system. Since then my CH has remained stable for years between 350-400, without replacing any water (other than what the rain does naturally). Done deal. I'll never have to replace any water because of CH!

Protect your investment and solve for CH accumulation by replacing evaporated water with only soft water. If you don't have a softener, get one. Your indoor plumbing will thank you along with your pool! If your house is not too old, it might already have the hookups in the garage.

Here's the details, if you're interested:

By the way Rick, welcome to TFP! Glad you found us. Save yourself some math and use this tool to calculate CSI instead of the way you're doing it now. (As James W recommended.) It calculates CSI, which is a better index for monitoring how CH will affect your finish. Keep it as close to zero as you can, between -0.3 and 0.3 is acceptable.

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Jan 31, 2019
Southern California

Use PoolMath, it's easier, faster and more accurate.

When using the wheel, you have to use "adjusted alkalinity, which is the alkalinity minus 1/3rd of the CYA.
And thank you James and Dirk!
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