Algae Help!

red-beard

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May 27, 2019
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I would turn it off completely. It will take a day to drop to where you want it. Then turn it back on.

Here is what I suggest: Turn it off. Take a FC reading tonight just after all sunlight is off the pool. Then take another reading tomorrow, same time as tonight. The difference will be your FC demand number. We can then help you calculate your SWG setting based on your pump run time.
 
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poolmom21

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Jul 27, 2021
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Indio, CA
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So, a loss of 3.5 ppm FC over 24 hours. Pool Math suggests 85% for a 14 hours pump run time. That is the starting point and see how it works.
Thank you. I’ll check PH as well and add if needed when I do next FC test
So, a loss of 3.5 ppm FC over 24 hours. Pool Math suggests 85% for a 14 hours pump run time. That is the starting point and see how it works.
should I set it up now or wait until it drops closer to 8? I just checked again and it’s at 9ppm
 

red-beard

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Thank you. I’ll check PH as well and add if needed when I do next FC test

should I set it up now or wait until it drops closer to 8? I just checked again and it’s at 9ppm
If it were me, I would turn it on now. I run mine a little high (9-12ppm) because of an irrational fear of Mustard Algae.
 

poolmom21

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Indio, CA
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If it were me, I would turn it on now. I run mine a little high (9-12ppm) because of an irrational fear of Mustard Algae.
Gotcha! Well I sure don’t want to do a SLAM anytime soon so I will turn it on.
How to you treat the PH, since FC over 10 makes it difficult to get a good PH reading?
 

the_sphynx

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Feb 19, 2019
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If it were me, I would turn it on now. I run mine a little high (9-12ppm) because of an irrational fear of Mustard Algae.
Same. I keep mine a little higher than the technical TFP range recommends just because I sleep a little better at night knowing if I have something go wrong for a day or two that I would be okay. BTW, it's safe to swim anywhere below SLAM levels AFAIK, although I wouldn't necessarily be jumping into a pool at 15+ FC (at a normal CYA) or too close to SLAM levels but that's just my personal preference.
 

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red-beard

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May 27, 2019
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Gotcha! Well I sure don’t want to do a SLAM anytime soon so I will turn it on.
How to you treat the PH, since FC over 10 makes it difficult to get a good PH reading?
I use a pH meter. I run my pH between 7.7-8.0. I cannot tell the difference between those with the color test.
 

poolmom21

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Jul 27, 2021
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I tested water this morning. Since FC is over 10 ( I am still working on adjusting the SWCG) the PH is 8.2+, should I add acid or wait until FC comes down. The pool is not being used at all.
Also, took CYA reading, still struggling with it but it falls between 60-70ppm. Should I leave it alone or add Liquid stabilizer?
 

mknauss

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You show the FC at 12.5. If you were able to read the pH right after (seconds) after adding the R0014 reagent, you should be good to believe that pH.

I would assume the pH is 8 and target 7.6 with your acid addition.

Leave the CYA - round up to 70.
 

poolmom21

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Jul 27, 2021
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Indio, CA
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You show the FC at 12.5. If you were able to read the pH right after (seconds) after adding the R0014 reagent, you should be good to believe that pH.

I would assume the pH is 8 and target 7.6 with your acid addition.

Leave the CYA - round up to 70.
Yes, after adding agent I could see the color fell in the 8.2 square color. So to add acid do I base it off 8.2 or 8?
 

poolmom21

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Morning!! So we had the most extreme sandstorm/ high winds all last night. I’ve never seen so much debri leaves in the skimmer basket ever. I mean it was full not to mention all the stuff I skimmed off the top of water. I’m freaking out that there will be an algae bloom festival. The FC has been on the high side 10-12 ppm and my target is 5-8 ppm. Besides cleaning and vacuuming is there anything else I need to do? Also, I will be checking FC to see where it is due to all the dirt/leaves debri?
 

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