Advice on SWG Location

markayash

Gold Supporter
Mar 21, 2016
424
Marrietta Ga
My Pentair HTR250 was installed in early 2014. It has had saltwater flowing through it since then as the pool never closes. The water has been TFP maintained since the start. No issues.

I want to switch to SW but can't really mount the cell after the heater without jumping through a LOT of hoops and probably mounting it vertically. The Hayward is roughly 5 years old, how risky would it be mounting it upstream 2' from the heater? It would be level with the heater and hater output goes down into the pool .
I run my VS Pump 24x7 most of the time on low
 

uwsublime

Active member
Oct 16, 2017
38
Seattle, WA
I want to switch to SW but can't really mount the cell after the heater without jumping through a LOT of hoops and probably mounting it vertically. The Hayward is roughly 5 years old, how risky would it be mounting it upstream 2' from the heater? It would be level with the heater and hater output goes down into the pool .
I run my VS Pump 24x7 most of the time on low
I'm not a TFP expert or anything, but you need to mount that SWG after the heater, with a check valve between the heater and SWG. You don't want the highly chlorinated water going back into your heater. Additionally, it's hard to say without seeing your setup, but you should be able to get it downstream. It's easy to put elbow joints in to route the pipes anywhere you need to to make space. I had to do this when I installed mine. Post some pictures if you want some more advice on that, though you may want to go to a new thread.
 

markayash

Gold Supporter
Mar 21, 2016
424
Marrietta Ga
Sure, I can't really move the heater back or to either side more then a couple inch's..But I am replacing the ball valves in the fall with pool type valves..One is hard to close..
 

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uwsublime

Active member
Oct 16, 2017
38
Seattle, WA
Sure, I can't really move the heater back or to either side more then a couple inch's..But I am replacing the ball valves in the fall with pool type valves..One is hard to close..
So I would bend that plumbing up right after it comes out of the heater, and go up to 6" above the highest point in your plumbing and put the salt cell there. I'm not sure if 6" is standard, so check your manual, but my SWG installation said to put it 6" above highest plumbing. Then just route it back down to your outlet.
 

Flying Tivo

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2017
899
Monterrey, NL, Mexico
Those elbows going in and out of the Heater are not Sch 40, I would definitely suggest re-plumbing. On the output side of the heater make a rise and turn to the left as viewed in the picture, then a 180 back to the ground pipes. Plenty of space for the SWG, you should also consider a bypass setup on the heater. Also post another picture further away so we can se the ground pipes.
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
12,995
Bedford, TX
Mark,

I would come out of the heater and either go straight up and install the cell vertically, or go straight out and install the cell and then loop back around to your return plumbing..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

markayash

Gold Supporter
Mar 21, 2016
424
Marrietta Ga
I plan on redoing them but what is sch 40 ?
There is a partial fence shielding the pad so hard to get a far away picture but this may help.
I was an old school engine builder so looking for flow :)
 

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markayash

Gold Supporter
Mar 21, 2016
424
Marrietta Ga
I like that idea, never thought about going back left and around :) I just redid the inputs and went to the VS pump which was tricky with that small area but got it all to fit..
That will be my fall project, have enough tablets to last summer so will be a good time.

Thanks again!