Adding ic40 to PSL4

[awetheri]

So for my first post after just joining today I’m starting the job of upgrading my PSL4 easytouch with components to convert it to salt. I’m sharing photos of the system and equipment pad. I installed a mastertemp last year myself and was really pleased how smooth it went (ribbing welcomed on the complex way I had to introduce a loop given the space!)

I am just waiting on the 12amp circuit breaker and SCG cable from board to cabinet. The only question concern I have is the surge board. 521218 is nowhere to be found. I’ve been researching for a few weeks and found few bits of information I’ve pieced together (wish I knew of this site earlier!). I found @ajgraham install post helpful but have more questions specifically for my situation. It seemed 520723 surge board was the logical choice based on research. Pentair parts list has the description “before” and “after” “change date” the only difference between these parts so hoping everything will integrate well with my panel setup.

I have the screws pre drilled for the transformer and 521218 surge board but the 520723 board is different so I’m not sure the best way to attach it to the cabinet. Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated!

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Adding pics is broken at the moment so don't waste time on that. Try again in a few days to add the pics to the thread.

Photo Upload Issues

I've had a few users report some headaches when uploading photos to the forum. I've tested and recreated the issue at this time. I'll keep all updated on the progress as I attempt to see what's going on this morning. (y)

www.troublefreepool.com

@Jimrahbe or @ogdento may know about how the "change date" affects you.

 

[Jimrahbe]

A,

Any reason that you just didn't add an external power center... That would have to be cheaper and a lot less work than trying to modify your EasyTouch???

The 520723, will work, but it is a very old model and does not have the three RS-485 connections. Not the one I would use.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[awetheri]

Thanks Jim. Agree is simpler bit made decision to go with individual components vs power center to keep space streamlined and integrate with ScreenLogic. (Perhaps could wire com directly from PC to ET board but saw no instructions on how to do). I ended up spending a little less ($30) in total than the external PC actually. Any suggestion on how to screw board to cabinet?

 

[Jimrahbe]

A.

Other than drilling new screw holes in the cabinet, the only thing I can think of is to use the existing screw holes, and make a thin home made adapter plate...

ScreenLogic works just fine with the external Power Center.. Just takes a simple 4 wire cable wired between the Power Center and the Com port of the EasyTouch.

You will have to do the same thing with your surge card.. You will have to run a cable between the surge card's Com port connector and the EasyTouch's Com port.. It will be a lot shorter, of course...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[awetheri]

Thanks Jim. I’m thinking (hoping) I don’t need extra com ports that 521218 provides. Also I’m assuming the 12amp breaker is appropriate for the 520723 (?). Currently I’m just powering and communicating with the WiFi adapter but I know you can make more than one connection if necessary. I’m getting some info on the other thread you helped another gentleman with earlier this year where he asked about the EMI filter. Is that something I need here? (I’d share pics but apparently site issue currently with attachments)

 

[Jimrahbe]

A,

I am not sure what specific thread you are talking about, but I do NOT recommend hard wiring ScreenLogic between the pad and your house..

I did that and took a lightning hit that took out a bunch of stuff.. It came in on that hardwire.. I now use the Wireless links...

The 12 amp breaker is for the AC voltage coming from the SWCG Transformer and going to the Surge card.. Mine is 12 amps.. I doubt the specific surge card will make any difference.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[awetheri]

No I don’t have it hard wired. It’s connected to a wireless adapter near the pad which communicates over WiFi with the screenlogic interface adapter hard wired to the router inside the house. The connection stinks though. I may look for 3rd party wireless adapter at some point. With all the high frequency connections houses use these days the signal degradation is significant. I’m still digging around for that EMI filter but no luck. I’m thinking it was needed for earlier systems (transformers or boards).

 

[Jimrahbe]

A,

If you are talking about the EMI filter inside the EasyTouch, I believe that was in some older units.. The EasyTouch that I have does not have the EMI filter..

Not that it is a big deal, but the ScreenLogic wireless transceivers are not WiFi.. They are more like the old wireless phones.. Mine works perfectly and have never lost connection in the past 4 or 5 years..

There is a way to put the Protocol Adapter inside the EasyTouch and then use an actual WiFi device to connect to your house network.. Marty, one of our Mods recently did this.. Let's hear what he has to say about it..... Call @mknauss

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[mknauss]

I followed this --

Add WiFi to Pentair Protocol adapter for peanuts.

Follow another post of mine and you'll hear about me frying my Pentair ScreenLogic Wireless interface. After pricing a new one at $150-$200 I decided to come up with a cheaper solution. I moved the protocol adapter inside the easytouch panel and bought a wireless bridge for under $20. Everything...

www.troublefreepool.com

I used a TP Link RE220 WiFi Extender. I have a GFCI outlet on my ET so pigtailed off a connector of it to plug the Extender into. Use a Cat5 cable from the Protocol Adapter to the extender. Wire the PA to the RS485.

It works flawlessly. I will warn you that you will have low voltage items in the high voltage area of the ET. But I ran the lines, etc to minimize it.

 

[awetheri]

Thanks Marty and Jim. I will definitely look into reconfiguring that. All the electronics installations went well yesterday before having to stop for the rain. The surge board came without the 4 pin connector for the com port so unless I’m willing to solder the wires to the terminal (which I’m NOT) I’ll just have to wait to integrate with screenlogic later while I sort this out with Amazon as “not sold as shown”! Surge board light confirmed green so now onto installing the ic40 where I’ll be taking opportunity to reroute some connections. How critical is it to orient the generator vertically? I’ve seen where a lot of folks mount horizontally.

 

[mknauss]

How critical is it to orient the generator vertically? I’ve seen where a lot of folks mount horizontally.

Mine is horizontal. You want 12 inches (or so) of straight pipe before it. As you will wire the power through the Pump/Filter relay that assures the IC is powered off when the pump is not running.

 

[awetheri]

Copy that. TF is wired to filter relay load. I’d prefer to do horizontally as long as doesn’t shorten life or increase maintenance (not sure why pentair says install vertically). It would annoy me getting build up of muck between sliding cover and control pad because it’s vertical. Thanks

 

[mknauss]

(not sure why pentair says install vertically)

Because many installations fail to insure the SWCG is powered off when the pump is not running. Then a flow switch failure and 'BOOM', the cell can explode if the gasses build up in them. By installing vertically, the gasses will more likely dissipate and hopefully prevent an explosion. Also the flow switch has less chance of failing 'ON' if it breaks off (which they can).

 

[awetheri]

Excellent information. Thanks Marty. I’m making sure I’ve got at least a foot of straight pipe and minimum 3 feet of flow post heater. Have to reroute things a bit to keep the tablet chlorinator downstream.

 

[awetheri]

Well everything’s gone well so far. I finished all the plumbing giving Sunday to set. Balanced the pool, added the salt, finished inserting the ic40 wired and connected everything. It’s running now showing 4700 ppm of salt on the app and blinking green on the generator (which puzzles me - pinch a penny says 3600 which I lean toward as the right number since I only added 8 bags. Will continue to monitor and read anything on calibration that I may have missed

 

[Jimrahbe]

A,

Keep in mind the cell only tests the salt level at power up and then every 12 hours.. If the salt was not mixed well before you turned the cell on, it could have seen a high salt level at start up..

Glad you got it all working..

Jim R.

 

[JamesW]

which I lean toward as the right number since I only added 8 bags.

8 bags is 320 lbs., which will raise the salinity by 3,476 ppm in 11,000 gallons.

However, the pool will already have salt in the water.

The starting salinity can be anywhere from 200 ppm to 5,000 ppm depending on the pool, the fill water and what chlorine has bee added.

What was the starting salinity?

I recommend a K-1766 salt test kit and a conductivity meter that can do NaCl salinity.

 

[awetheri]

A,

Keep in mind the cell only tests the salt level at power up and then every 12 hours.. If the salt was not mixed well before you turned the cell on, it could have seen a high salt level at start up..

Glad you got it all working..

Jim R.

Thanks Jim. I had stopped and restarted little while ago and now it reads 4350. The salt was in probably 36 hrs before switching out the dummy with the cell so who knows. Now I’m trying to figure out why the pool is still running . After the schedule stop of 5 pm. Wonder if the board is confused about something. The time and dates are all good and schedules didn’t change between shutting power off. Only thing new is adding transformer to that relay and tapping into the com port on main controller board. Any thoughts?

 

[awetheri]

8 bags is 320 lbs., which will raise the salinity by 3,476 ppm in 11,000 gallons.

However, the pool will already have salt in the water.

The starting salinity can be anywhere from 200 ppm to 5,000 ppm depending on the pool, the fill water and what chlorine has bee added.

What was the starting salinity?

I recommend a K-1766 salt test kit and a conductivity meter that can do NaCl salinity.

Thanks James I’ll check it out. The pool store detected 0 salt before I added.