Hard Plumbing Question

[jrv331]

Currently my pump & filter are about 12ft from my pool. I'm using several pieces of flex hose to make the connections to the skimmer and return. I'm adding a heater this year and I want to switch to everything to hard plumbing. Is 1 1/2 pvc sufficient size all the way around?

The heater is currently set up with 2' adapters. Any reason I should not change these to 1 1/2' to keep all the plumbing the same size or should I go 2' all the way around? Other than a higher flow rate any other advantages.

I take my pump/filter inside in the winter months and will make whatever set up I go with able to be disasembled so I can take all of it inside as well.
Thanks for any Help
John

 

[duraleigh]

Welcome to the forum!

Almost surely 1.5" plumbing is all you need. The size of your pump is a missing factor but, even if it's larger than normal, (your psi may run a little high) the 1.5" plumbing will do.

 

[jrv331]

I have a 1.5hp 2 speed pump which I normally run on low 24/7. One of my concerns is switching the heater fittings from 2" to 1 1/2". The manual says nothing reference this.

One of the things about the internet is information overload. I have been looking at pictures of several set ups. Another idea I may try is to use a short piece of flex hose from the skimmer to a 10ft section of pvc then another piece of flex to connect it to the pump. Same with the return.

Just wondering if the flex hose will cut down on couplings and elbows.
Thanks
John

 

[launboy]

You should be alright with the 1.5" pipe, but I'd go 2" just for the heck of it. It's not going to hurt and if anything, it'll help. I wouldn't worry about reducing the heater fittings at all. Plenty of people run heaters(2" included) with 1.5" pipe. If anything I'd be sure your pump produces enough flow on the low speed to trigger the flow switch so the heater will fire/run.

When you say you're going to bring everything in for winter, do you mean you're going to take all of the piping in too, or just the pump and filter? Is the heater gas or electric and do you plan do diconnect and move it too? I would avoid using the flex lines to make bends and such. Just use strech elbows and put Unions before and after each piece of equipment.

You may have seen my thread(s) already in your searches. I've got a 1 HP single speed pump and solar heat on my pool. Everything is 2" plumbing with a few exceptions(done before major plumbing job).

Here's a link to my pool plumbing/solar heater thread...
http://www.troublefreepool.com/hello-from-the-cheese-state-t6985.html

Later in the summer I got the idea that we should have a hot tub. This shows some more of the plumbing. I still haven't finished this project yet. The snow caught up with me and buried my work.
Linky: http://www.troublefreepool.com/launboy-s-spa-build-updated-w-pics-t9611.html

Hopefully I can answer any other questions you may have.

Adam

 

[jrv331]

Adam,
Thanks for the reply, its amazing your first picture is what changed my mind about using all hard plumbing. I'm kind of looking at what you did, pvc for the long run then the flex hose for the final 3 ft on each end. I figured it might make some of the angles easier. Its kind of a Crud shoot on the pipe size. The heater is set for 2', but the pump/filter/skimmer and return are all set for 1 1/2" connections. One thing i was wondering is will 2" pipe lessen the flow if the pump is on low to the point of being ineffective?

I will disconnect all the plumbing and take it inside for the winter as I do with the pump. The heater is gas, if I can lift it I will disconnect the gas connector and move it to the garage.

Thanks for the help
John

 

[duraleigh]

One of my concerns is switching the heater fittings from 2" to 1 1/2".

I would leave the 2" fitting in place and get a reducer fitting (cheap) to bring down to 1.5.

One thing i was wondering is will 2" pipe lessen the flow if the pump is on low to the point of being ineffective?

The flow thru the pipe will be a little slower but the flow into the pool in GPM will remain almost the same......actually increase just a little bit.

Strictly from a neatness and professional look, I would suggest all hard plumbing. You could then use unions to connect and reconnect your hard plumbing for the winter.....they look great and are quite easy to connect and disconnect. They do require accurate measuring during installation.

 

[jrv331]

Thanks for the reducer tip, I hadn't thought of that. One of my other concerns about using all hard plumbing is that the pump/filter are in well traveled spots in the yard - No choice on that. Im concerned if they take a good shove and push the pvc pipe to much it will crack the skimmer/return.

Most of it will run under my decking and I had planned on securing it with a boat load of clamps, but telling a 5yr old boy to stay away from it is just asking for trouble.

Thanks for the help
John

 

[launboy]

That first pic was the original set up. I knew I'd be adding the rest of it(for the spa) later in the season so I didn't want to do all that just to have to cut it out when I moved stuff around for the additional plumbing and pumps. The flex hoses on the pool end weren't by choice either. I'd have much prefered them to be solid, but being that the pool is a soft sided pool which can move quite a bit when you've got a bunch of teens in it I knew having it hard piped wouldn't last.

I'm also worried about the pumps moving and messing the pipe up. I plan to drive stakes into the ground against the base of the pump(there's no concrete to bolt them to) to prevent the pump from moving side to side. I'm not worried so much about people hitting any of it because of where they're located, but I do worry that the force from unscrewing the skimmer lid will move it.

That being said, I would just stake everything down and use unions with all hard pipe. If people possibly hitting the equipment is really that big of an issue, you could always build some sort of mini fence around it. Like a 3 ft. high lattice or something similar. Is is possible you could relocate it where it's not so much in the way? You said the pipe will run under the deck, why not put the whole thing under the deck?

HTH,
Adam

 

[jrv331]

Adam,
Thanks for the replies. The deck is not high enough to put the pump/filter under and still be able to get the top of the filter canister off(cartridge filter).There is no way for me to move the pump/filter with out increasing the distance from the pool. The pump sits on a small concrete pad, I suppose I could screw it down. The other thing that I never thought of was you mentioning the slight movement when the pump kicks on. Not sure what that will do to the skimmer connection.

Im still thinking a small 1ft section of the heavy duty flex hose might be the way to go on the ends. Just read to many stories of the pvc coupler coming off.

Thanks
John

 

[launboy]

Actually, having the short 1 ft. areas of flex line might not be a bad idea. It would eliminate any worries of cracking a fitting. Though, bolting the pump down would eliminate most of this problem too.

If you move the pump, how much farther would it be? Mines about 25' from the pool and I don't have any issues.

Adam

 

[jrv331]

Right now Im not really sure. I still have to have the gas line installed and might be able to put the pump behind the heater up against the deck. Im also limited by the location of the electrical outlet. I suppose I could always put my deck boxes in front of the setup to kind of block them off. Might be the easiest solution.
Thanks
John