Teflon Tape and You

spishex

0
TFP Expert
Oct 12, 2008
1,374
Hillsborough, NC
I've seen a few mentions here and there of how to use TT, but no one thread dedicated to it. Having seen two excellent examples of how NOT to use it yesterday I feel inspired.

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Behold: teflon tape. AKA thread seal tape, plumber's tape, polytetrafluoroethylene film. A great resource when used properly. A wasteful, frustrating nuisance when misapplied.

The first thing to know is when to use it. Teflon tape is used to fill in the gaps and lubricate tapered threaded fittings. These are fittings like PVC male adapters, drain plugs, and pressure gauge threads where the threads are providing a seal.

Teflon tape serves no purpose on union or lock-ring type connections which depend on an o-ring or some other gasket. The threads on a union, for example, are only used to provide compression to hold the flat surface on one side snugly against the o-ring on the other. Placing teflon tape on these threads would be useless since any water that leaked past the o-ring would escape out the other non-threaded side. This goes for ball valves with unions, most filter cartridge housings, spa heater unions, etc. In short, if there's an o-ring or gasket present there's usually no need for teflon tape.

Now that you know you've got the right application, how do you put it on?

Teflon should be wrapped in the same direction as the male threads. Wrapping the opposite direction will usually result in the tape coming unwound as you tighten the fitting. Start at the end of the threads, being sure not to go over the end as this may cause an obstruction. Wrap completely around twice to hold the end of the tape in place, and then work your way up the threads overlapping half the width of the tape as you go. Keep tension on the tape as you wrap so it is pulled completely into the threads. When you get to the end you should have two layers over the entire fitting, and the threads should still be clearly defined through the tape.

Usually two layers will be adequate. More than three or four and you risk breaking whatever female fitting you are threading into. Bad news since that's usually an expensive piece of equipment like a pump housing or a multiport.

Are there crusty old fittings in the world that require more than four? Sure! How do you find out? Try two layers first. If you find 2-4 layers isn't doing the trick, consider using pipe dope instead. Or even better, replace the worn out fittings!

Teflon tape should be removed and reapplied every time the fitting is taken out and put back into place. Also, be sure you're using the standard white stuff. While the colored versions are the same chemically, some are thicker than others and could increase your odds of cracking a fitting.

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Excellent article!!!!! Trivial tasks like applying teflon tape are often taken for granted by those that know how to do them but they can mean the difference between a good job and one with problems for someone who doesn't!
 
Yeah, nice post again, Tim.

I have usually practiced that teflon doesn't do very well on any joint over 1" (pipe dope, instead). Of course, that's just a general guideline but it seems to work pretty well for me.

Do you think that's being overly cautious or does it make sense?
 
Hey guys :wave:

Tim's post is GREAT!! (and Dave, I know teflon tape will work on > 1" threads)

I'll give the way I usually tape a threaded connection, just for 'kicks -N-grins' -- I start at the bottom of the threads (on a M/A the end where the pipe will eventuallt glue in) and wrap up to the open end with a small overlap, then back down and back up, ending so that the torn off end of the tape is the first part to enter the female receiver - this gives 3 good wraps of tape to the threads. (Tim, and others, realize that on some older [worn] connections, more tape and even pipe dope can be required, but experience let's you know when a little more is needed)

I want to re-emphasize that too much tape can crack the fitting!! and one should always start off using the 'normal' amount and retaping with more only when necessary! (TIP - if the threads bottom out, you can use an o-ring to help seal the connection - for 1 1/2" you can use an 0-ring off of a SP 1022-C plug :) )
 
duraleigh said:
Yeah, nice post again, Tim.

I have usually practiced that teflon doesn't do very well on any joint over 1" (pipe dope, instead). Of course, that's just a general guideline but it seems to work pretty well for me.

Do you think that's being overly cautious or does it make sense?

I rarely use pipe dope just out of habit. The only time I tend to have issues is if there's been excessive pressure or heat built up in the system (especially at the pump discharge), and even then changing out the male adapter will usually do the trick.
 
Don't use teflon tape on plastic fittings it almost guaranties leaks. Most pool stores,
Home Depot and Lowes has what looks like a large white crayon. It comes with various names.
and is a very thick version of pipe dope. Just rub some of it in the threads an assemble.
Most pool plumbers and service people use this product.

Cliff s
 
Just thought I'd give this a little :bump: as it's now spring and people are reconnecting threaded fittings :-D

BTW - for folks who have trouble every year removing the directional eyeballs on the returns -- you can use a single wrap of teflon tape to prevent the plastic male threads from bonding to the female threads so that removal is very easy and won't require tools 8) (of course, unless you have a robotic cleaner that 'eats' the eyeballs out of the returns, the directionals only have to be "loose hand tight" i.e. they don't have to be "cranked" in!!! -- it's easy to adjust the aim of the eyeball with a screwdriver)

Happy openings all!!
 

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singerteacher said:
Great post! I think I accidentally taped over the bottom of my pressure gauge ... out to fix it now.

If some robots "eat" the directional eyeballs, is it best to remove them before running the robot? (I don't have a robot yet, but it's on my wish list ...)

No, you don't need to remove them, but they do need to be in tighter than normal IF you have a robot that, in the course of cleaning the pool, makes the eyeball come out. I've only heard of the robotic cleaners removing the eyeballs once, but figure it's better to err on the side of caution and include the info on the chance of a robot 'eating' the eyeballs :)
 
waste said:
Just thought I'd give this a little :bump: as it's now spring and people are reconnecting threaded fittings :-D

BTW - for folks who have trouble every year removing the directional eyeballs on the returns -- you can use a single wrap of teflon tape to prevent the plastic male threads from bonding to the female threads so that removal is very easy and won't require tools 8) (of course, unless you have a robotic cleaner that 'eats' the eyeballs out of the returns, the directionals only have to be "loose hand tight" i.e. they don't have to be "cranked" in!!! -- it's easy to adjust the aim of the eyeball with a screwdriver)

Happy openings all!!

Lol, no robot but something at my eyeballs. Time to fix them i guess.
 
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