Jandy SWG started throwing error code 174 this morning (water temp >108F). Temp on the control box shows 108 (sometimes 109). Independent pool sensor has pool water at 90 (it's summer in Tucson). Cleaned sensor and cell and reinstalled. No changed - still solid EC 174. I have the troubleshooting manual - it has instructions for calibrating the salinity sensor but nothing on the temp sensor. Can't find anything on the web either. Thought about putting a bag of ice around the sensor to see if it makes a difference. Any suggestions?
Error Code 174
- Thread starter hillyjd
- Start date
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The buttons are on the circuit board. If the test numbers are ok, then the trisensor is bad. If the test numbers don't match, then the circuit board is bad.Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the front board. Press and hold the test
buttons marked salinity and R-temp on the circuit board. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’
key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.
While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It
should read 75° F or 24° C.
Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’
key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front
cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .
If the readings are correct then the front board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor.
Thanks for the quick reply. Followed your instructions this morning. The Salinity reading was 2.0 not 2.8. Temp was 74 not 75. C & A buttons together was 90 not 91. So the only one that was off by more than one unit was the salinity. Interestingly enough, once I plugged the flow/salinity cable back into the board, the water temp is reading 95 so at the moment everything is working; the bad news is that the real pool temp is about 77 so I suspect I'll have the same problem once the pool gets warm. So it looks like the sensor is bad. Replace it and calibrate the salinity with the new sensor?
Yes. Curiously enough, the salinity sensor had always been a little low for the past year or so. Not enough to recalibrate - just 300-400 low. After I disconnected and reconnected the sensor this morning, it started reading correctly. I'm wondering if I just clean the sensor connections all the sensors would work better. Maybe just a connection issue? Trisensor is 2.5 years old.
Sorry - Just got back from a few weeks on the road. Checked the SWG and now it's got the dreaded error code 170. I have the troubleshooting manual and it says to check the back board voltages. Transformer AC voltage (TP-1 to TP-8) shows zero. Also, no DC cell voltage either. Time for a new tri-sensor I would think?
Or is it more likely that the DC cord plug has failed, not the tri-sensor, since there's no 28vdc and that comes from that plug?
I'm getting a little smarter. Makes sense there's no DC voltage since there's no transformer voltage. Found a thread that said to turn off the system, disconnect the flow sensor and then turn it back on. If the EC 170 goes away, then it's the tri-sensor. If the EC 170 stays there, it's the transformer. Makes sense?
So I disconnected the sensor, powered it back up and got no EC 170, but did get EC 172. However, now I get NO voltage readings from any of the test points on the back board. Leaning towards replacing the transformer (since it's cheaper) and hoping that fixes it???
The trisensor is the known weak part of the aquapure. It's the most likely cause. The voltage tests are a little tricky to do. There are there ac tests and four dc tests. If you don't get the right test points or if the meter is not on the correct type of voltage, your tests won't be correct.
Can you describe your test procedure?
Can you describe your test procedure?
With the system running and a steady EC 170 showing, I opened the SWG control box, set my multi-meter on 200v ac and put the plus lead into TP-1 and the minus lead into TP-8 on the back board got no reading. I then stepped through the other test points (2 & 7, 3 & 6) and got valid readings. Then I set the meter to DC and put the leads on sensor dc connections and got nothing. Then I turned off the system, unplugged the sensor lead, turned the system back on. Got EC 172 (sensor inop) and no EC 170. I repeated the test point measurements and got 0 on all of them. With the system on, I plugged the sensor lead back onto the board and the EC read 170.
Replace sensor. Make sure it's the latest one from Jandy or you will be replacing it again.
OK - but I think I'll order a transformer at the same time - found one on ebay for $75. Thanks for your help.
Is the latest Jandy model the one that has some sort of small "sensor indicator module" on the cable? The one I am going to replace just has the small circuit board on the cable?
Installed new tri-sensor weekend before last without a problem. Everything fine until this morning when sensor seemed to go completely whacky. EC 145 (high salt), salt reading double normal, temperature now reading Celsius instead of Fahrenheit. Display also shows boost mode enabled, which makes no sense. Luckily sensor still under warranty from Amazon so they're sending me a new one.
When the unit first turns on, there should be the number 60 displayed briefly. That is the power supply frequency that the unit detects. If it reads 60 hz, it assumes that the unit is in the US and displays Fahrenheit. If it detects 50 hz, it will flash 50 on the screen and assumes it's in Europe and will display Celsius. What frequency is displayed on startup?
This morning I cycled the system in the vain hope that it would recover, and I'm pretty sure I saw 60 on the restart. I'll try it again tonight and let you know.
Just cycled power to the SWG and it showed "60" on start up. So it looks like the power is ok. Interesting that as soon as power gets applied, the "bo" for boost more shows up, even before flow is detected.
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