New Member here...

Jun 27, 2015
15
Grantsville, MD
Hello!!!!

We bought a house with a 16 X 32 X 5 1/2 deep end Kayak Pool. I'm rebuilding the deep end of the pool and setting the new liner in the next few days (fingers crossed and weather permitting).

I am going to try to get the local small town fire dept. to fill it, if not it's well water for the 17k gal of water.

I have adopted a 1 HP sta-rite pump with a PLM100 cartridge filter system. The pool also has a pool frog cycler system and as simple as it sounds it seems a little expensive.

I found this site looking for guidance to this intimidating process, I hold to have everyone in the water this July 4th...

Wish me luck, I'll be back with stupid questions. stay tuned!
 
Welcome to TFP! Our FD would not fill ours as they said their trucks and hoses have a lot of chemicals ran through them and we would not want that in our pool. We ended up borrowing a water tank from our friend and he has a hydrant he rents so we made several trips that way to fill. Now I use the well water to top off. I don't have a high metal count in my well water though.
 
Welcome.

Get rid of that FROG and go with liquid bleach or a SWG.
 
Welcome to TFP. To get the post out of your pool, make sure you have the proper test kit. The proper test kit (i.e. TF-100 – link below) is the foundation of your pool care. Why this kit? We've learned through personal experience that you cannot reply on pool store testing, test strips, or simple over-the-counter kits. They simply do not read Free Chlorine (FC) or Cyanuric Acid (CYA) levels accurately or to the high levels we need. If you do not have a TF-100 or Taylor K2006 test kit, it should be your #1 priority.

Also, please add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. It will help us later.

Once again, welcome!
 
Thanks for all the welcomes!

Our FD would not fill ours as they said their trucks and hoses have a lot of chemicals ran through them and we would not want that in our pool. We ended up borrowing a water tank from our friend and he has a hydrant he rents so we made several trips that way to fill. Now I use the well water to top off. I don't have a high metal count in my well water though.

The local water guy wants $60 per 1000gal ($1000) to fill the pool, that's not gonna happen. We have very hard water and only have a softener with an iron remover plus we are smack dab in the middle of farm country. My fear with the well water is running our well dry or the pump going out.

Welcome.

Get rid of that FROG and go with liquid bleach or a SWG.

I'll assume that why it was NOT hooked up in line and was in the "extra's" pile. I'm going to go with one of test systems Texas Splash recommended, ordering tonight. I have not picked up the Borax, Bleach or baking soda yet but will have some on hand in the next few days. How much of what should be a good starting point?


Welcome to TFP. To get the post out of your pool, make sure you have the proper test kit. The proper test kit (i.e. TF-100 – link below) is the foundation of your pool care. Why this kit? We've learned through personal experience that you cannot reply on pool store testing, test strips, or simple over-the-counter kits. They simply do not read Free Chlorine (FC) or Cyanuric Acid (CYA) levels accurately or to the high levels we need. If you do not have a TF-100 or Taylor K2006 test kit, it should be your #1 priority.

Also, please add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. It will help us later.

Once again, welcome!

loud and clear on the test kit, I looked at them last night online. I was hoping I could get one at the local pool place. Signature Done!

Stupid question #1, how soon after the pool is filled can it be used? Or what should the levels be?
 
You need to wait 1 second after filling before getting in the pool. :)

Get a few gallons of bleach. Plain, unscented, NOT splashless or easypour. No need for borax or baking soda until after you test the water and see what it needs. Also need to get some CYA aka stabilizer aka cyanuric acid.

Add 30ppm CYA in a sock and put it in the skimmer basket or hang it in front or a return. Squeeze it a few times a day to help it dissolve. Add chlorine/bleach. Chlorine level is set based on CYA level and the Chlorine CYA Chart, keep it at target level at ALL times to keep your pool sanitized and algae free. Don't let it drop below minimum ever or algae will grow. It is ok to take chlorine level higher than target when you will be doing lots of swimming or won't be able to test and add chlorine for a while.

It is safe to swim when
PH is 7.2-7.8
Chlorine is between minimum and shock level
Water is clear

Here is some Pool school to read
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Pool School - PoolMath
 
Got my TF-100 system on the way.

Thanks for the links dv, I have read them all and they are bookedmarked for future use.

Well my progress has halted because I ordered a pool liner with the wrong bead. For future reference the "run of the mill" "off the shelf" liners are for kayak pools for production years 2002 and older. After digging around the house looking for the deep end specs, the small stack of saved papers said the pool was manufactured/installed in 2004. great...

I've returning the "off the shelf" liner today and now have to order a custom liner because there are only 2-3 places to get that bead from. I'll get a credit for the first liner but it's going to be 2 weeks before the new liner arrives. The company I ordered the liner from was very helpful and reasonable with the return.

Will update when things get back on track.

Thanks for all the replies.
 
New liner being delivered tomorrow! The TF-100 is in hand and I'm going to work on rebuilding the deep end over the next few days. No point in making it perfect just to let the rain and wind beat the sand back down.

I can get water from the city for .01 a gal, I also found a local water hauling company to bring it to me for $100 per hour....
 
What a hot Friggen weekend to we working on this pool. I got the hopper rebuilt, smoothed everything out and got the liner installed tonight. Started willing it with our well water. I filled it about 6 inches or so before I stopped, I'm tempted to keep filling it but don't want to leave it unattended overnight. I'm waiting on a .29 O-Right so I can cut out the main drain to the pump. Fingers crossed it should be here Monday.

Picking up some bleach tomorrow.
 

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What is the best way to remove iron? I had my water brought in from the local water dept. there was A LOT of iron in the water. I have about 12" of viability and have my pump running to try to get it all filtered out.

My well water was crystal clear in the 18" I filled the pool up. The driver blew out some crud before putting the water in the pool, the first 2 loads were not that bad, the 3rd load turned it to muddy river water....:sad:

I have some iron remover that I put in our water softer system when I add bags of salt. Not sure what to do at this point.

I checked my chlorine and it was .05, my ph was 8.2 and cya was well over 100? (I filled the tube all they way up and I could still see the black dot on the bottom?).

Going down to check everything over again.