10ish year old Quartz finish. Need help, suggestions.

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A

Austintatious

0
Oct 13, 2014
81
DFW Texas
Hi everyone.

I bought a house about 8 months ago with a pool that has a quartz finish/plaster. It appeared to be in good shape overall but was very dirty.

I cleaned it out and gently power washed it.


Notice how WHITE that pool looked after the cleaning... I have seen older photos which I can no longer find where the pool was a darker blue, like a lagoon. Below I have some photos of the spa and can show you my problem more clearly.

Anyhow, the pool has been up and running for the last 8 months and we have been enjoying it for the last 3. However we really would like it to look better. I drained the spa to try a few things to see if I cant figure out what to do next.

here is a close up of the finish


here is an area on the spa which I believe is representative of what the whole pool used to look like ( the blue color anyway)


Here is the entire spa floor


Notice the blotches... it looks almost like caked on calcium... however acid washing doesn't seem to effect those cream colored areas.

There are also lots of smooth white patches like this


Keep in mind these pictures were DIRECTLY after power washing

On top of all this, I am fighting a black algae problem (I believe it is black algae) which seemed to crop up with my chlorine levels between 6 and 10 somehow. I have treated it with algae-cide and am brushing daily and keeping the chlorine levels up.

Algae problem aside, is this Finnish just done? It looks like most of the quartz has lost its color and become opaque. Its very white so it looks blotchy very easily. It also seems to be porous enough to trap dirt or debris and has gotten dirty looking. There are even some areas at the deep end that would not clean up so it is likely permanently stained.

I have tried acid washing and pressure washing to no avail. If I get on it really hard with the pressure washer it will turn blue again, but it pits the finish VERY badly. There seems to be blue stained Portland as you get deeper.

I was also thinking perhaps there is a stain for Portland that I could use to stain the Portland a darker blue to try to mitigate some of the blotchy areas.

I found this in my searching Plaster color change Looks like a similar problem.. I read somethign about hitting it with a diamond wheel.

Id appreciate any ideas or advice... We aren't in the mood to spend thousands of dollars right now to have it redone.
 
Looks like the plaster has reached it's life span and needs replaced. I have no suggestions for you, other than to replace it with a new finish.

As far as algaecide goes, it is more a preventative than a treatment for algae. You will get significantly better results by running a higher than normal FC level conducive to your CYA level while brushing the pool daily to expose the algae to the chlorine.
 
A few housekeeping points.

Please add your state/country to your location in your profile. Climate is an important factor in pool care that we need to take into consideration when helping you. Also, please add your pool info to your signature so we know what we are dealing with, here is what we are looking for, Pool School - Getting Started, also post a set of full test results if you have a good kit. If they are test strips or pool store test results then don't post them. Get a good test kit, link below, and then give us some test results.

Also, please copy and paste the IMG links for your pics not the URL. That will embed the pics directly into the thread. I tried to click the links but got pop up ads and it took too long to figure out how to load the pics.


Aggressive power washing of old plaster is not good, it is possible that what you see as darker material is actually the gunite under the plaster. Plaster is a uniform color throughout.

It is likely that properly maintaining your water TFPC-style will yield the best results for clearing up some of the cosmetic issues. It will take some time, but won't cost anything. Of course, they are cosmetic issues so if you are not ready to replaster it can certainly wait until you are ready.

Since algaecides have been used in the pool it could be copper stains, here is more on that, Pool School - Metals in the Water and Metal Stains

It could be Pool School - Calcium Scaling

If it isn't metal staining then here is what I would do.

If you don't have one, get one of the Recommended Test Kits, I use the TF100 from tftestkits.net.

When you get it give us some test results and get ready to SLAM Your Pool.

After the SLAM I would hold chlorine several PPM above target for a month or so and see where you are. Chlorine level is set based on your CYA level and Chlorine CYA Chart

Here are some of my fave Pool School articles
TFPC for Beginners
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry

Here are the Recommended Levels for your pool.
Here are the Recommended Pool Chemicals and how to add them.
Use PoolMath to figure out how much to add.
 
pooldv said:
A few housekeeping points.

Please add your state/country to your location in your profile. Climate is an important factor in pool care that we need to take into consideration when helping you. Also, please add your pool info to your signature so we know what we are dealing with, here is what we are looking for, Pool School - Getting Started, also post a set of full test results if you have a good kit. If they are test strips or pool store test results then don't post them. Get a good test kit, link below, and then give us some test results.
Click to expand...

Added. I just added shock so I will have to get test results later on tonight or tomorrow

Also, please copy and paste the IMG links for your pics not the URL. That will embed the pics directly into the thread. I tried to click the links but got pop up ads and it took too long to figure out how to load the pics.
Click to expand...

will do


Aggressive power washing of old plaster is not good, it is possible that what you see as darker material is actually the gunite under the plaster. Plaster is a uniform color throughout.
Click to expand...

yea, we were gentle.. the aggressive areas were momentary accidents. I sort of believe that all the plaster was dyed blue originally and the top layer has faded with time. I do not believe we went nearly deep enough in ANY area to expose the gunite.

It is likely that properly maintaining your water TFPC-style will yield the best results for clearing up some of the cosmetic issues. It will take some time, but won't cost anything. Of course, they are cosmetic issues so if you are not ready to replaster it can certainly wait until you are ready.
Click to expand...

I hope so

Since algaecides have been used in the pool it could be copper stains, here is more on that, Pool School - Metals in the Water and Metal Stains
Click to expand...

This is the first time I have added algeacide.

It could be Pool School - Calcium Scaling

If it isn't metal staining then here is what I would do.
Click to expand...

I probably do have some calcium scaling as well. I am working on it.



After the SLAM I would hold chlorine several PPM above target for a month or so and see where you are. Chlorine level is set based on your CYA level and Chlorine CYA Chart
Click to expand...

Interesting, I will read more.
 
It is possible that there is another color plaster under the top coat, especially if the pool is 15-20 years old. Probably not copper stains from algae. Tried to look at pics again, still can't.
 
pooldv said:
It is possible that there is another color plaster under the top coat, especially if the pool is 15-20 years old. Probably not copper stains from algae. Tried to look at pics again, still can't.
Click to expand...

Pics should be visible now

Pool is probably around 7 years old... the house is only 10.

I honestly do not think it was ever re done.. I talked to the neighbor that saw it built and he said that after it was done it was blue like the ocean... see the pics for the blue.
 
Update,

I read up on slamming and I am not sure I am understanding correctly... I already meet the criteria for stopping the SLAM so why should I do it?

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
And the water is clear.
Click to expand...

I am running about 6 on my chlorine... Im a bit ticked off that my CYA has crept up to 60.... I have been using trichlor to get it up but it shot up higher than I wanted very rapidly. PLus I just bought a stinkin bucket of tabs. I have been planning on going to the TFPC method and using bleach eventually... Looks like the trichlor is already causing me problems I will have to undo with a water change. It might not bee too much of an issue if I can figure out what I am going to do about the plaster.

Running 7.2 PH right now. My Calcium harness is low, looking for a source but I am hesitant to spend any money on this water if it is going to have to be drained to work on plaster or reduce CYA.
 
I already meet the criteria for stopping the SLAM so why should I do it?
Click to expand...
You don't. SLAM the pool only if you DO NOT meet those criteria.

I would also indicate you cannot treat your problem until you identify it. I am pretty sure it is calcium buildup (from years of incorrect water management) but you can confirm that by applying a diluted muriatic acid to a small portion of it. If it foams up, it is calcium scale.

I would try that first and then report back.
 
That looks like a blue pebble finish with a bunch of calcium scaling or some kind of build up on it. I definitely don't think there is an old finish and newer finish.

I'm going to try to get some more opinions on this.
 

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I think you have some scaling perhaps, but more than anything a loss of the finish color where the Blue dye has simply washed out/faded. I can't say why, but it was probably due to the dye quality as much as anything else. Making dark Blue finishes with lasting inorganic Blues that don't fade is what makes the Blue ones so very expensive to install. Oddly enough, the color in the very first picture is so close to what we put in last year it's scary. We have less blue colored Quartz aggregate, but still close. It's all a matter of taste, but I prefer it over the unnatural Blue dyed finishes, because you never see Blue Sand in a natural body of water. What you wound up with should give a very pleasant water color, but if you don't care for it, there isn't much you can do except live with it or replace it. I wouldn't try Acid washing or "hot starting" it any more from here, unless you do plan on a re-do soon. It will only shorten it's life if you do.

It sounds like you know which way to go for the Black Algae problem, so if you'll move in that direction, and follow our guidelines and procedures, that issue will go away no problem. And as said, some of the staining may fade for you in time. based on these pics, I'm thinking it doesn't look too bad all filled up does it?
 
Patrick,

When we first cleaned out the pool, most of it looked great. There were some algae stains that we could not get to come out in the deep end.. they were formed in a ring where the waterline was at different times... Aside from that it did look very good. Over the last 8 months it has gone downhill looks wise... the bottom looks very splotchy... It is probably algae. There are some areas that are black and some that have a slight brown tint to them. IDK if the VERY light brown is in fact algae, but I am now keeping my chlorine levels pretty high.

It seems to really get bad quickly after the TORRENT of rains we had recently. Perhaps I am just playing catchup at this point.

Honestly, If I could get all the deep stains out and get the finish looking like it did just after we power washed it, I would be happy. I have called a local pool company (not leslies, so mad at them right now) to have them come out and take a look in person and give me their thoughts. They have treated me really well so far. I just haven't been going to them consistently because they are out of the way a bit for me... I will probably start using them exclusively instead of leslies.
 
I would suggest getting a TF-100 or K2006 Kit to test, treat, and maintain it on your own. You'll take the frustration and guesswork out of the equation and never wonder about what is really going on ever again.
 
Austintatious said:
So the Kit I have isnt good enough?
Click to expand...

You say you have Black Algae, so you'll need to perform a SLAM on the pool but that is not possible without a FAS/DPD FC kit. I do not think that kit has one. You also say you are calling out pool companies. With a proper kit and some knowledge, there is no need for that. What tests are in the kit aside from regular DPD FC testing?
 
Patrick_B said:
You say you have Black Algae, so you'll need to perform a SLAM on the pool but that is not possible without a FAS/DPD FC kit. I do not think that kit has one. You also say you are calling out pool companies. With a proper kit and some knowledge, there is no need for that. What tests are in the kit aside from regular DPD FC testing?
Click to expand...

Patrick,

Thank you for your time...

Here is my test kit Taylor Technologies K-2005 DPD Complete Chlorine Kit

I THINK I have black algae... I have never seen it in person other than what I have going on... Here is a pic



Apologies, I probably wasnt clear, but I am having a pool guy come out to give me some advice on the plaster, not the algae.

Meanwhile I am keeping my chlorine around 6. My CYA is at 40 and my PH 7.4.
 
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