Started fighting algae on my own then found this site

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JulieD

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Jun 20, 2015
11
Britton, Michigan
Our pool water was swamp green 2 days ago and had been that for a week. My husband did some research and relayed it to me. I attacked the pool hard on Wednesday. We only have the test strips so I was at least able to see when our chlorine got low. Yesterday morning the water was a light blue but it was very very cloudy. I took a water sample to the local pool store. They said all the levels looked good. He explained that the cloudiness was the dead algae and to use Floc and Vac. This morning it was still just as cloudy but now it has a slight green tint. I then found this site and did my research. The pool store didn't have any of the test kits that have been recommended on here. They only had the test strips. I am about an hour from a Leslie's pool store so going there wasn't an option. Now I know that I need the good test kit in order to win this battle against the algae. I ordered my test kit and should have it on Monday or Tuesday.

I said all that to ask this.... Should I continue adding bleach until I get the test kit or do I stop and start over once I get it?
 
Hello Julie and welcome to TFP! Well, you've learned your first valuable lesson about pool stores ... just like the rest of us. :) Glad to hear you have ordered the test kit. Which one did you order?

In the meantime, you will probably need to "SLAM". The SLAM link is below in my signature. What can you do for now until your kit get here:
- Read-up on SLAM
- Try to keep PH at 7.2 if you can test it
- Normally we advise not to put anything in your water except for regular liquid bleach. But we have no idea what type of pool you have, the equipment, or readings.
- So, please add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. It will help us later. :)

Normally adding about one gallon of bleach per day while you wait for your kit should be fine - especially if your water is already turning green. It won't resolve the issue on its own, but might just help keep "in-check" somewhat as you wait. As soon as you get your kit, please post: FC, CC, CYA, PH, TA, and CH).

Let us know if you have any other questions. Thanks for checking-in with TFP, and have a great day.
 
JulieD said:
Our pool water was swamp green 2 days ago and had been that for a week. My husband did some research and relayed it to me. I attacked the pool hard on Wednesday. We only have the test strips so I was at least able to see when our chlorine got low. Yesterday morning the water was a light blue but it was very very cloudy. I took a water sample to the local pool store. They said all the levels looked good. He explained that the cloudiness was the dead algae and to use Floc and Vac. This morning it was still just as cloudy but now it has a slight green tint. I then found this site and did my research. The pool store didn't have any of the test kits that have been recommended on here. They only had the test strips. I am about an hour from a Leslie's pool store so going there wasn't an option. Now I know that I need the good test kit in order to win this battle against the algae. I ordered my test kit and should have it on Monday or Tuesday.

I said all that to ask this.... Should I continue adding bleach until I get the test kit or do I stop and start over once I get it?
Click to expand...
Yes. Any algae left alive will reproduce. It's hard to even guess how much, not knowing what the CYA level is supposed to be or if we even trust the results, but try to keep at least the minimum FC for the CYA in there until you get your kit.
 
Thank you for responding Pat and Richard. I have managed to kill the algae. The water is a soft blue, but still cloudy which I expected. No green at all. I ordered the Taylor K-2006 test kit comp chlorine FAS-FAD. I backwash the filter 3 times a day. It takes less and less time for the view window to get clear. The pool is able to keep good chlorine levels for about 8 hours now. I put a gallon of bleach in the morning if needed, and a gallon at night again if needed. My test kit will be here Wednesday morning. I will post the numbers as I test the pool. I can't thank you enough!!!!
 
I'd keep adding a gallon at night until your test kit comes in. Just because the water is cloudy blue doesn't mean you killed all the algae.

Welcome to TFP. You're going to love TFPC way!
 
My Taylor K-2006 test kit arrived today. Yesterday morning I went out to test the water and the water was clear about 2 feet down. I couldn't see the weighted diving ring on the bottom that I threw in. So I am hoping that I am making progress.
We had chlorine in the pool early this morning. I started testing and found out right away that there was little to no chlorine. However I went ahead with my first test. I put a bottle of chlorine in tonight. I thought we had one bottle of bleach of left, but the jug was left in the garage instead of going to the garbage can. So here are the results from our first test.

FC - 0
CC - 0
CYA - The black dot never disappeared
PH - 7.6
TA - 160
CH - We ran the test twice and each time our sample turned purple. We do not have city water. We used our hose to finish filling the pool from being closed. We got our pool last year and had pool water brought in for the first fill. Do we need to add a metal eliminator to the water to get the metal out?

I will be testing the water again tomorrow. If I need to add chlorine I will test the water about an hour after. I will test it right away if the chlorine level is good. Is this what I should do? What else do I need to do to get our pool water blue and clear?



Thank you again for your help.
 
Hello Julie. Welcome. I am fairly new to this forum as well. This TFP method is definitely the way to go. (you can read my thread to see what I had to go through). Looks like your CYA was like mine LOW so that's good you will not need to use a lot of chlorine to get your FC up to shock level. Check POOL MATH it is your friend. :wink:., With your low CYA you will need to get to a shock level of 10ppm. According to POOL MATH for your size pool (actually confirm you gallons by taking the actual measurement of your water depth with a tape measure, can be a difference of 2k gallons.) you will need 252 oz of 8.25% bleach/liquid chlorine. and to reduce your PH to 7.2 you will need 52 ounces of muriatic acid.

You should go ahead and purchase 2 gallons of MA (lowes or home depot sells it by the paint supplies) and about 10-15 gallons of bleach to start. Walmart great value is good from what I hear.

Not sure if you have an Ollies Bargain outlet around your area but I buy 12.5% liquid chlorine from there for $2.99 a gallon.


Hope that helps your start... I'm sure the veterans will be on to give more info.
 
JulieD said:
My Taylor K-2006 test kit arrived today. Yesterday morning I went out to test the water and the water was clear about 2 feet down. I couldn't see the weighted diving ring on the bottom that I threw in. So I am hoping that I am making progress.
We had chlorine in the pool early this morning. I started testing and found out right away that there was little to no chlorine. However I went ahead with my first test. I put a bottle of chlorine in tonight. I thought we had one bottle of bleach of left, but the jug was left in the garage instead of going to the garbage can. So here are the results from our first test.

FC - 0
CC - 0
CYA - The black dot never disappeared
PH - 7.6
TA - 160
CH - We ran the test twice and each time our sample turned purple. We do not have city water. We used our hose to finish filling the pool from being closed. We got our pool last year and had pool water brought in for the first fill. Do we need to add a metal eliminator to the water to get the metal out?

I will be testing the water again tomorrow. If I need to add chlorine I will test the water about an hour after. I will test it right away if the chlorine level is good. Is this what I should do? What else do I need to do to get our pool water blue and clear?



Thank you again for your help.
Click to expand...

with CYA not showing up, I would use pool math to add 20ppm of CYA to your pool and do that immediately. lower your pH to 7.2 and then start SLAM. base your SLAM level on CYA 30. will be close enough and you will adjust after the SLAM is over again. stock up on bleach, I would purchase at least 10-15 gallons. even if you don't need it for the SLAM, you will use it after and the 8.25% bleach doesn't degrade real fast so you can stock up. you don't want to run out of it during the SLAM

you don't need to worry about any readings until after you SLAM is over. adjust your pH to 7.2 before you start and you don't need to retest until after you are done. only thing to really test is FC during SLAM.
 
The CYA is getting better. The sample was cloudy, but I could still could see the black dot but just barely. I ran the numbers in pool math and added the CYA to the pool tonight. I will be getting more bleach tomorrow. The pool is holding the bleach. I put a gallon in this morning and then tested for chlorine tonight. The FC was 2.6 ppm and CC was 1 ppm. I got the muriatic acid and added it to the pool tonight. Unfortunately we will be busy this weekend. As long as the pH is at 7.2, I will be starting SLAM on Monday. Thank you all again! I couldn't have won this battle without you! I will update on Monday.
 
I believe all of my hard work has been awarded! Our pool is clear and beautiful! Our pool was a nasty swamp complete with tree frogs and tadpoles. I might need to do some tweaking to get all the numbers right. Ok so here are my results from testing.

FC - 2.8 ppm
CYA - 0.6 ppm
pH - 7.4
TA - 90 ppm
CH - 20 ppm

Is there a thread that lists what the numbers should be? I sure hope my daughters will be able to swim in couple days.
 

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Ok, disregard my last post. I wrote my numbers in the wrong area on my paper which totally messed it up. I have to pick up my daughter. I will post the correct numbers when I get back. Sorry.

- - - Updated - - -

Ok, disregard my last post. I wrote my numbers in the wrong area on my paper which totally messed it up. I have to pick up my daughter. I will post the correct numbers when I get back. Sorry.
 
JulieD said:
I believe all of my hard work has been awarded! Our pool is clear and beautiful! Our pool was a nasty swamp complete with tree frogs and tadpoles. I might need to do some tweaking to get all the numbers right. Ok so here are my results from testing.

FC - 2.8 ppm
CYA - 0.6 ppm
pH - 7.4
TA - 90 ppm
CH - 20 ppm

Is there a thread that lists what the numbers should be? I sure hope my daughters will be able to swim in couple days.
Click to expand...

You need to read Pool School so you understand the numbers. But here is the first paragraph from Pool School pasted below.
You CYA is too low, your FC is not stabilized/ protected from the sun.
PH is a little low but has a tendency to rise any way.
CH is low, even assuming you have a vinyl pool ( since it is AG I assume it is vinyl)
TA is fine.

No reason you can't balance the water in a few days. Just read enough to understand that as you ad certain chemicals it can slightly affect other readings.
Pool Math will tell you how much to add of what. Links for Poll Math and Pool School in the forum masthead above.


ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

There are five chemical levels that every pool owner needs to keep track of:
•FC - Free Chlorine - A sanitizer which keeps your pool water safe and free of germs. Chlorine must be constantly replenished. (level depends on CYA)
•PH - Acidity/Alkalinity - Needs to be kept in balance to prevent irritation and protect the pool equipment. (7.5 to 7.8)
•TA - Total Alkalinity - Appropriate levels help keep the PH in balance. High levels can cause PH to rise. (60 to 120, sometimes higher)
•CH - Calcium Hardness - Appropriate levels help prevent plaster damage. High levels can cause calcium scaling. (220 to 350, vinyl lower)
•CYA - Cyanuric Acid - Protects chlorine from sunlight and determines the required FC level. (outdoors 30 to 50, SWG 70 to 80, indoors 0 to 20)


Here are four other chemical levels that come up frequently enough that you should at least know what they are:
•CC - Combined Chlorine - CC over 0.5 indicates a problem.
•Salt - Required with a SWG (Salt Water chlorine Generator), otherwise an optional enhancement.
•Borate - An optional enhancement.
•Phosphate - Doesn't matter, despite pool store claims otherwise.
 
Just a couple suggestions:
1 - You show "CA" above, I'm assuming that's CYA? If so, bring your CYA up slightly to 30 by adding about 24oz of stabilizer (sock method in front of a return)
2 - Keep your FC at 4 (Target). If you get a lot of sun in your area, consider going up slightly above that (6-7) so as it burns off during the day you end-up at about 4.

Hope this helps.
 
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