Flashing "Check Flow"

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Nickr

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Jan 4, 2009
5
New to the site. From what I have read... alot of info. I have a Pool Pilot DIG-220 with the check flow flashing. There is no blockage any where. Took the tri sensor out and checked the flow switch and it is working Any help is greatlly apreciated. Leave in Florida cell is #48.
Thanks
 
Welcome to TFP!

There are a couple of possibilities. The most likely is that you are not getting the 15 to 20 GPM that the flow sensor is looking for. If you have a two speed pump try turning it to high speed. Try backwashing/cleaning the filter. Also, check the skimmer baskets to make sure they are clear, clean out the pump strainer basket, and check the strainer in the AutoPilot manifold and make sure it is clean.

It is also possible that the flow sensor cord is not properly connected, check both ends. Depending on your setup it is possible for some valve to be in the wrong position and for that to be reducing the flow. It is possible that the flow sensor is damaged in some way, and requires a much higher flow than it should to trigger, or the spring on the bypass valve in the AutoPilot manifold could be broken, letting too much flow bypass the sensor, but both of those seem unlikely.
 
Check the flow sensor wire for any small nicks that are not readily apparent through visual inspection. I didn't find the damaged wire until I took out the entire wire assembly and ran it through my fingers. I also cleaned my SWG with muriatic acid as advised by the Goldline rep.
 
Thanks for the help. I have double checked the flow switch and it is working with the pump on. Getting enough pressure. Checked all fuses. I noticed that when I go into Test System I am not getting a reading for salt. It is reading 00ppm. Don't know if this is the problem. A few days ago I had 3000ppm. I hope it is not one of the circuit boards. Thanks
 
The salt sensor shares the same wire with the flow sensor, both are part of the tri-sensor assembly at the top of the manifold. If the salt sensor is also not working, that strongly suggests a problem with the cable. As flintstone said, it is possible for the wire to be damaged and yet look fine to a casual inspection.
 
Sorry for the delay in responding but another place to check is the tri-sensor connector itself. There should be 6 pins. If one is bent, it can cause a flow, salt, or temperature error.
The fact that you have a flow AND salt error may be the connector, but sounds more like Jason and Flinstone's reply of checking the tri-sensor cable.
 
Thanks for the info. I checked point to point on the tri sensor cable and all checks out. All have continunity. I removed the tri sensor and inspected all six pins, no ploblems there. I had the chemistry checked just in case if it was so far out, the pool pilot shut down. All chemicals are in line. Any more suggestions?? Please help.
Thanks Nick
 
Check the bypass valve to see if it may be stuck in the opened position. You should have a clear/opaque body check valve. On the inlet side, there should be a visible red gasket.
Turn the pump off to make sure it is full seated closed.
Then turn the pump on and check if this gasket has opened as well. This should open about 1/4" to 1/2".
Repeat if you're not able to see this.
If it stays opened, there may be debris keeping it opened and not allowing the proper flow throught the tri-sensor to activate the flow switch.

If the check valve is working properly, remove the tri-sensor from the DIG-220 unit.
With the system running, use a wire jumper to touch the center two connector pins on the base of the DIG-220. These are the flow switch pins and is low voltage.
This should get rid of the display, which indicates that the problem is not in the power supply.

You can also check continuity on the tri-sensor cord and the tri-sensor. I've attached a document to diagnose these, along with the wire to pin positions.

Let me know if this helps.
 

Attachments

  • FS-Stuff TS.doc
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Thanks Poolsean
I have checked the by pass valve and it is working. I checked visually and I disconnected the tri sensor cable and jumped pins 1 and 2 (red & white) display still read an error "check flow". I also disconnected the tri sensor cable at the main unit and used a meter to check contiunity of the flow switch when I turned on the pump. Flow switch close. At this point I think I need to purchase a new Pool Pilot. Any more suggestions would be appreciated. I'll try anything. Thanks Nick
 

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Thanks Sean for your reply
I have been away and today is the day I was able to some more checking. I removed the tri sensor cable from the DIG 220 box and used a jumper to jump the red and white wire at the main unit. the results no change. It still indicated "check flow" With that there is nothing wrong with the tri sensor cable. When I first checked the unit this morning it seems that temp and salt (ppm) were out of wack. To the best of my knowledge this unit is out of warranty. The s/n is CG0052160099 ( I believe) Again any help would be appreciated.
Thanks Nick
 
Did you ever find the problem with your flow switch? I am having the exact same trouble. After two years I started getting a check flow warning. Everything seems fine, flow rate seems fine, all the filters are clean, etc. I even replaced the tri sensor (twice actually) but STILL get the check flow warning. I will have to inspect the wire, etc., but this seems very tricky to troubleshoot. If you found the answer I would like to know before I spend more time and money troubleshooting. Thanks.

By the way, I noticed the problem started after I used a "Green to Clean" product, but I have used it before. Could this product cause the tri sensor to malfunction??
 
flguy,

two tri-sensors replaced? Are you installing the tri-sensor in the correct direction? The stainless steel paddle with the round magnetic puck attached to it, should push against the center gray post when the flow hits it. There's also a plastic "arrow" on the side of the tri-sensor that should point in the direction of the flow.
 
Hi All,

Having same problem - thought it was the tri-sensor which I have the replacement for but cannot figure out how to remove the old one. Any hints?

Also, I think my problem might be a flow issue as I am currently only seeing about 10 gpm. I backwashed, check all the filter baskets, etc. Any suggestions?

Thanks -
 
Deborah,

The tri-sensor is replaced by removing the two screws on the side of the TEE assembly. The Tri-sensor is inserted and sealed by compression and an o-ring. Once the screws are removed, you will most likely need some channel lock pliers to grab it. Twist back and forth while forcing it out of the TEE.
Make sure to add some lube on the oring when you put the new one in. Also, very important, make sure you align the direction of the flow paddle with the direction of the water flow.

You mentioned that you have 10 gpm? That sounds like either a pump failure, improperly positioned valves, or very dirty skimmer basket, pump basket, and/or filter. That doesn't sound like an AutoPilot related problem, but it sounds like the AutoPilot is shutting down the cell under the flow protection, as it should.

Let me know what you find.
 
Hello,

Thanks for the help - I cleaned out the impellar which fixed the pressure issue. I was still getting the Check Flow error so I cleaned both the cell and the tri-sensor with a water/acid mix. That did the trick! The troubleshooting guide should really mention that in the same sentence that says "replace tri-sensor". (it probably states it somewhere else)

Thanks again,

Deborah
 
Does the tri-sensor just slide out. Mine is stuck and i an unsure on how to remove. Started down this path when i noticed the flashing check flow and my pump would not turn on. Checked voltage at the terminals but no 220v.

Dave
 

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