Chlorine test with Poolmaster and Taylor don't agree

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M

MisterJoe49

0
Jun 18, 2015
4
Brooksville, FL
I bought a Poolmaster test kit to compare with my Taylor kit. But my chlorine readings don't agree. Taylor reads too low and Poolmaster reads too high.
What should I believe? The pool looks ok now but I'd like to know why my chlorine readings are opposite are weird. The PH is ok and Alkalinity is also ok.
 
It would be helpful if you posted a full set of test results from both kits.

Which Taylor kit is it? Which Poolmaster kit is it?

Why would you feel you needed to "check" the Taylor kit?

Dom
 
If the Taylor kit is the red drops, high FC can bleach out the color and make it read falsely low. There are also two different Taylor reagents for the pink test, and if you have the wrong one for your test block, it will read wrong. The yellow OTO test doesn't bleach out. It goes through degrees of yellow into orange and ultimately brown the higher the FC gets. The FAS-DPD chlorine test can read up to 50 FC and be accurate to within .2, which is why we recommend it. I hope that answered your question.
 
pooldv said:
Welcome to TFP!

I am not familiar with the Poolmaster test kit and it is not one of the recommended test kits. Maybe that is why. Pool School - Test Kits Compared

How do you know one is too high and one is too low and what is just right? :)
Click to expand...

I can't say for sure that I know. That is why I'm here hoping for answers. If have to trust something. I have been using a Taylor K-2005 for years but it has been frustrating.
The people at Taylor are very helpful but the chlorine test has always been confusing for me. Sometimes the chlorine reads too low (no pink) and I am told that it means too high
because the reagent bleaches out. So I bought a Poolmaster 5-way test kit which had rave reviews on Amazon. But that kit tells me my chlorine is always good (yellow).
So, I usually have to guess. One problem I've always had with my Taylor kit is that it never can tell me when I need shock. The algebra has never worked out for me.
TC = FC + CC. My reading of TC is always lower (less pink). I know it's impossible for the total to be more than its parts and that is why it's so frustrating. Whenever I reach out for help I am told that my re-agents are old. Then I buy new ones and it's the same thing. I doubt if I'll ever have another pool.
 
The Taylor K-2005 kit does not show enough pink ( low chlorine. The Poolmaster 5-way test kit gives me a bright yellow (high chlorine).
I tried the deluting techniques and it didn't work for me. Dom, I needed to check the Taylor kit because of the confusing test results. That is why I'm here.
At this time my pool shows some green at the bottom. I already tested it with 2 kits with mixed results. I guess I'll just add a few bags of shock.
 
You need to add this to your Taylor kit, then you will essentially have the K-2006 kit. The FAS-DPD test kit can quickly, easily and accurately read your chlorine throughout the range you will ever find in your pool. For results you can trust, this is the kit you need.

You need to be aware that chlorine tablets or bags of shock are likley adding CYA with each dose. High CYA renders your chlorine less effective and requires maintaining an even higher FC level. When the CYA gets high enough, the chlorine can no longer sanitize the pool.

You are much better off using bleach or liquid pool shock to chlorinate your pool, these or a salt water generator is the only way for most of us to get pure chlorine without the extras.

Here is a video showing the test in action
 
Welcome :)

I have several kits, use either for TA, and sometimes pH. But the ones you have are no good for chlorine. Get FAS-DPD with 2 oz bottle.

And if you don't have a CYA test, order that dedicated kit as well (get a couple of 2 oz bottles)

Or just order this. All the bottles will get used up if you keep them indoors. TFTestkits.net
 

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MisterJoe49 said:
........... I guess I'll just add a few bags of shock.
Click to expand...
As already mentioned, those 'bags of shock' are going to make matters worse if they are dichlor or trichlor.

If you switch to liquid chlorine (aka bleach) the only thing it adds to your pool is chlorine and a trace amount of salt.

To raise the FC 1ppm in your 16000 gallon pool you need either 24oz of 8.25%, 21oz of 10%, or 17oz of 12.5% liquid.

To properly care for your pool you will need to know the CYA level as proper FC levels are dependent on the CYA level. Shock level for the pool is 40% of the CYA level, and with visible algae you will need to SLAM that pool to eradicate it. For example, I f your CYA level is 50ppm, your shock FC level for the SLAM is 20ppm. Neither of your current tests can read that high.

For these reasons alone you need a FAS/DPD chlorine test, and a CYA test. The TF-100 includes both, as well as tests for pH, TA & CH.

Stop guessing about your pool care and get the proper test kits.

Dom
 
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