1st test with TF100

[Mike1162]

PH looked a little lighter than 7.2 let's call it 7.1. I added 10 oz of soda ash.
Chlorine with OTO showed 0 when drops were initial added a few minutes later showed around 2.5

FC might have showed a hint of pink, 1 drop & was clear - call it .5
CC 6 drops = 3.0 (I expected this to be higher)

CH - 750?! (30 drops of R0012) Leslie's said 160 & had me add 20 lbs of adjuster. Retest @ Leslie's on Sunday showed 270.

TA -70 Leslie's showed 60 2 weeks ago & 80 last Sunday. We're close on this test.

CYA - I had the tube completely filled & could still see the dot. Must be less than 15. Both times at Leslie's - 40.

My plan for later tonight is to add 1/2 gal of 10% liquid chorine & retest to confirm my results. I'd like to start SLAMing tomorrow. Should I be concerned with the CH?
The pool water is clear. I've been using Leslie's 3 inch pucks, could my CYA really be less than 15?

I ordered the TF100 on Sunday & received it today (Wednesday) - Great service

Mike

 

[Donldson]

Did you just open your pool?

 

[tim5055]

Chlorine with OTO showed 0 when drops were initial added a few minutes later showed around 2.5

FC might have showed a hint of pink, 1 drop & was clear - call it .5

If you are going ot do the FAS/DPD test there is no need to do the OTO test. While talking about the OTO, don't let it sit. It is the reading when you add the drops and shake. In your case clear. Letting it sit to get a color is not a valid test. That the FAS/DPD showed .5 validates the original "0" reading on the OTO

 

[jblizzle]

While talking about the OTO, don't let it sit. It is the reading when you add the drops and shake. In your case clear. Letting it sit to get a color is not a valid test.

That is not exactly true. Immediately upon adding drops and shaking you can get a sense of the FC, the sample will fairly quickly change to the TC reading. So if you see a shift, that indicates the presence of CC. Which actually matches what the FAS-DPD indicated. So I would not say it "is not a valid test"

This is actually really neat that you were able to observe the OTO shift and it gave results basically the same as the FAS-DPD. It is like confirmation of the "theory" ... seeing is believing

 

[LI poolguy]

30 drops for the CH test = 300, not 750. You could keep using the pucks to add to the CYA. You could also benefit from the pucks while slamming, a CC of 3 is rather high. Just keep an eye on the Ph, it will gradually drop while using the pucks.

 

[jblizzle]

30 drops for the CH test = 300, not 750.

Depends on how much water is used for the sample. The TF-100 recommends 10ml of water so each drop is 25ppm. The K-2006 recommends 25ml of water so each drop is 10ppm. There is no need for the precision of the K-2006 method.

 

[LI poolguy]

Depends on how much water is used for the sample. The TF-100 recommends 10ml of water so each drop is 25ppm. The K-2006 recommends 25ml of water so each drop is 10ppm. There is no need for the precision of the K-2006 method.

MY TF test kit says to use 25ml of water and multiply by 10 per drop. Looking at the card that came with it right now

 

[jblizzle]

OK ... the new TF-100 instructions recommend the 10ml of water
Just use 10 drops of the first reagent, 3-5 drops of the 2nd, then multiple the 3rd reagent by 25ppm

 

[LI poolguy]

OK ... the new TF-100 instructions recommend the 10ml of water
Just use 10 drops of the first reagent, 3-5 drops of the 2nd, then multiple the 3rd reagent by 25ppm

Didn't know it changed. Thanks for pointing that out!! When/why did it change?

 

[jblizzle]

To save reagent and allow more tests, since there is no need to know the CH to the nearest 10ppm.

 

[LI poolguy]

Gotcha. Although, multiplying by 10 is much easier than multiplying by 25. Also, how many times does one really need to test for CH? I do it once in the beginning of the season and once at the end (splash out reduces it, and it gives me reason to use up the cal hypo). Reagents last forever with that test. I guess I'm lucky, tap water here is Ph neutral, zero metals and zero hardness. I used a RODI system for my reef tank many years ago. I tested the tap water and RODI water, only difference was a TDS of 1 with the RODI and a TDS of 12 from the tap.

 

[Mike1162]

That is not exactly true. Immediately upon adding drops and shaking you can get a sense of the FC, the sample will fairly quickly change to the TC reading. So if you see a shift, that indicates the presence of CC. Which actually matches what the FAS-DPD indicated. So I would not say it "is not a valid test"

This is actually really neat that you were able to observe the OTO shift and it gave results basically the same as the FAS-DPD. It is like confirmation of the "theory" ... seeing is believing

The "OTO Shift" is what led me to this site. I've had this pool for 19 years & never saw this happen before. I've always had algae flair ups & just thought that came along with having a pool. I've done some reading on the forum & did some cleaning armed with this new knowledge. There was some algae around the molding for the stairs, some more on the underside of the steps. I removed the light & the housing was a slimy mess. Inside the trim on the skimmer I brushed away something that was black. Not sure if it was some kind of mold or maybe excess gasket material but it sure made a mess. I also cleaned the filter last week. Hopefully all this work will make for an easy SLAM.

 

[Mike1162]

2nd test results.

PH - 7.3
FC - 1
CC - 1.5
CH - 750 (30 drops in 10 ml)
TA - 70
CYA - 20 (Might have been holding too close the 1st time.)

The 1/2 gal of chlorine should have brought the level up to 3 ppm.
Can I start the Slam or do I need to do something with the CH?

Mike

Forgot to post pic in 1st post.

 

[Mike1162]

I still need to know if I can start the SLAM or If the CH needs to be brought down.

 

[Donldson]

Hey Mike, your CH is high but shouldn't affect your SLAM.

Looking at your pool it should be a quick one!

From my HTC One via Tapatalk

 

[Mike1162]

6:30 pm
added 2 ½ gals chlorine

7:15 pm
FC = 10.5
CC = 1.5
Added ½ gal

8:40 pm
FC = 7.5
CC = 1.0
Added 1 gal

9:30 pm
FC = 12
CC = 1.0

 

[tim5055]

Keep it up. Early in the SLAM hit it often. Chlorine is your friend.

 

[Mike1162]

10:00 pm
FC = 9.5
CC = 1.0
Added 1 ½ gal

Going to bed - 5am comes early.

 

[Mike1162]

So far today:
5:45 am
FC = 6
CC = .5
Then added 1 gal

6:15 am
FC = 13
CC = .5
Then added 1 gal

11:30 am
FC = 13
CC = .5
Then added 1 gal

4:45 pm
FC = 14.5
CC = .5
Nothing added

I'm going in shortly to brush the walls, spotted one little patch of old algae. It's maybe 2 square inches. I'd like to see the CC drop to zero. I'm thinking of adding another gal when I get out then checking & recheck in the morning.

 

[Mike1162]

8:45
FC = 12.5
CC = .5
Then added 1 gal

10:00 pm
FC = 17
CC = .5
Nothing added

5:30 am
FC = 14
CC = .5
Nothing added

12:15 pm
FC = 9
CC = .5
Nothing added

Looks like I'm not quite there, dropped 3ppm overnight.

I'm expecting the grandchildren to come swimming shortly. Should I add a gal now & probably add another this evening or can I just add 2 gals this evening?

The FC dropped 3 over night & 5 in about the same time period with the sun. Looks like the sun burned off about 2ppm in roughly 6 1/2 hours. Is that about normal or a sign the CYA is low. Pool store said CYA was 40 my testing showed 20.